Search results

Thanks all

We need to raise the CH level. Was looking at the local pool store, 25# bucket was > $220. Found this on-line: HARRIS Swift "Polar Melt" Melt Calcium Chloride Snow and Ice Melter, 15lb. It's calcium chloride pellets. $38 Less than 1/2 the price of the pool store option. See any downside to...

To close this story, took a few days, but as of Saturday 7/15, pool back to where it should be. A positive or two is what one can learn when issues arise. I gained some good knowledge during his excercise. Thanks again all.

Roger on the additives (for now. Have questions about them I'll raise later) So took measurements this AM. pH is holding at 7.5, CYA @ 30; however, Chlorine back to 0. I added 1 gal, 3 cups of bleach (have to get more). Plus, the panel shows my salt Amps trending back up, > 8, again (saw...

Neighbor gave me some sodium dichlor chlorine granules and some yellow treat they had left over. Any reason I shouldn't add that into the mix? Also, pH at 7.5 (added 6 ozs of acid, attempting to reach 7.4 target), my CYA is now at 30. Added my first application of 10% bleach, 1 gal, 7 cups...

"...stabilizer to ultimately get to around 70 ppm." You kind of lost me here. Get which reading to 70ppm? And the pool math app is recommending I add 21oz of dry stabilizer. Does that make sense to you, agree with that dosage? (see snapshot)

Taylor K-1000 included with the TF-100 package. I say 8.4 because it was darker than the top of the scale 8.2. I guess I could have/should have listed it as 8.2+ Just tested it again, ~30 minutes after adding Pool Math app recommended dosage. Down to 7.8. Which is good news. Headed in the right...

Thanks for your reply. "Happy hunting". LoL

My pH reading was 8.4. Not quite sure where you saw the 6.4. Thanks for your reply.

Update: I kept adding fresh water via garden hose. Finally got the salt level/amp readings read by the panel to a point where the Amps dropped. It's now in a range where the SWG could operate as needed. Took readings this, 7/9, AM: pH: 8.4 NOTE: I’ve been fighting to get these down to...

Thanks for the above. I'll review the information in the link you provided, and check out the board. Thanks again.

No sir. The Goldline Controls remote panel, which is remotely connected the main board. While I do want to test with the Taylor kit, and see what the readings show, I think it's important that the readings from the panel are taken into account, as it's those reading that will ultimately control...

Ok, so over the last couple of days, while the pump was running, I had a garden hose dropped in at one end of the pool adding new fresh water. This was my way of diluting the water to get the sallt ppms in check. I've been steadily cycling the system at the "Diagnostic" level and seeing the ppms...

Just ran across a video that warned against draining a pool when the temps are hot, like they currently are in Houston, TX. Temps will reach close to 100 again today (Sunday 7/2). Current temp at 7:45 AM Central is 82. Would it best then for me to drain in the early morning hours, say from...

Long story short, due to a dead SWG, I ended up with too much salt (~6,200 PPM, we had a month of excessive rain & I added salt thinking the rain was diluting the water) and a green pool. I’ve got a new SGW in place now, but with the salt so high the SWG will not kick on. So, we’ve got no...

"If you drain a pool, it can pop out of the ground" And that is what has me concerned. I've always heard the reason there aren't basements here in Houston was because the water table was to close to the surface. Not too sure how much of that is a wive's tale, and how much it still applies has...

Appreciate all the help Marty. What do you mean "How is your surface water nearby?" And I just checked HD, and could rent a pump from them. Queston on this: "Other option is to run the pool pump and mix it while you overflow. Might be the best method to reduce the volume you use." Why wouldn't...

Well, here are the readings. Not good, but about where I figured they would be. pH: 8.2 FC: 0 TA: 100 CYA: may be 40, but probably closer to 30 Salt, per Taylor drops: ~7,000! HELP! Suggested next steps. And I sincerely appreciate and will try to follow all suggestions.

Mknauss, not saying I disagree, but is there another option versus the investment in a sump pump, which would probably be a one time use?

So, long story short, due to a dead SWG, I ended up with too much salt (>5,500 PPM) and a green pool. So, here shortly one the sun starts to set (I’m just outside Houston and its dang hot out now) I’m going to run tests, get my FC, CTA, etc. readings. In the meantime, to help bring the salt...

Truns out the SWG was dead. Installed new one yesterday (6/24). Now I just need to get the salt PPMs back down to a reasonable level, and starting getting rid of all the green water. Fun stuff uh? :)

drsipe, I'll give it a try Thanks

Yes. And I use the magnetic stirrer. Also, when I use the test strip, about 1" of water as it says in the instructions.

Equipment as listed in signature line. Based on the salt readings on my monitor, last month I had to, or thought I had to, add an unusual amount of salt. But I chalked it up to the unusual number of heavy rains we were experiencing. Now, we’re in a hot, dry period and I’m still getting a “Low...

Did a little percussion maintenance on the defective relay. It started working again and did for a few days while I waited on the delivery of the new replacement relay. Even though the old one seemed to be working fine now, never know when it might start failing again. So I installed the new...

JamesW, thank you very much for all the info. Do you suspect my issue is a bad relay? So I just watched the video you included, which gives me something else in the relay to check. Thanks

I can NOT turn off the filter pump from the panel. I have to throw the breaker for the pump to stop. Other options, such as turning the cleaner or water feature on to off and back, function properly. I pulled the panel cover off. Took some measurements with my VOM. The main board seems to be...

Ended up replaced a Fluidmaster # 242 seal ($3.48 + tax @ Lowe's). Took all of about 5 minutes. (YouTube on replacing the seal (457) Toilet Fill Valve Not Shutting Off / Don’t Replace / Fix Fast Cheap & Easy For Beginners - YouTube ) Other than stopping the leak, on the plus side: The $3.50...

Ok, ordered a new FluidMaster fill valve. But just so I understand, what can I look at to insure this is the defective component? What would a defective valve be doing that I could see? Make sense? And thanks all. Y'all been great help.