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I am not completely sure I can, but Ill try

6 returns currently. Adding a picture of the pool below. Landscaping is still on the list. The in wall cleaner port is right where the bare spot is on the right. Thinking maybe a fountain, jet, or something. The bare spot is where the previous morons had tampered glass pieces/shards. I...

I would get the IntelliCenter, if I didn't have a one year old ET at my previous house to swap with this house. What about converting the in wall cleaner line to a return for a water feature?

Upgraded house, upgraded pool. Need to refresh the equipment pad though. Things I know I am going to add: EasyTouch 8 with ScreenLogic IntelliChlor IC40 Intelliflo VS Heater Bypass Plumbing IntelliValves Here is the current pad setup. I have an additional pump available to me, either...

20amp GFCI is pump and SWG. The 15amp GFCI will be pool lights once I hook them up. Breaker is just in there for now. Didn't even hook up the pig tail.

Makes sense. Thanks again!

this should be better. Pump is left, surge is middle, line is right.

The curly is on the neutral bus. I was concerned by not having a load neutral(middle connector on breaker) connected to the GFCI breaker that it wouldn't work. However, yours doesn't have a load neutral either.

Line from main goes to the lugs. The bottom breaker is for surge.

Sorry for the confusion, the ET definitely has a neutral. The pump doesnt take a neutral. It takes L1, L2(low), L2(high), and ground.

Thanks for all your input. I replaced the wire this weekend with 10 gauge and got everything but the pool lights wired and running. Attaching picture just because. Question: I bought a GFCI breaker for my 2 speed pump motor, however, it does not have a neutral wire running to it. In that...

Again, thank you all for the insight.

Thank you both. Ill stop saying one last thing. Right now, they have romex run from the main, through the attic, then out of the soffit(entering into conduit at this point) running vertically down the exterior wall, into a junction box where it switches to THWN and continues in the conduit...

One last thing (for now), and excuse some ignorance. Do I need stranded or solid? I see THHN, is that the same? I see some THHN is rated for wet and dry and some is rated just dry. Obviously I need the wet/dry one. Just seems like they market it as THHN.

I like done right. And I like the idea of reusing the conduit versus trying to run new. Any tips for repulling this wire?

It is 1/2" conduit. If just pulling 4 #10 wires to replace the 3 #12 and 2 #14, then hopefully it would pull?

So you propose switching the 12AWG ground to the neutral bar and the 14AWG neutral to the ground bar. Very interesting.

Gotcha. What about the neutral bar on the ET?

I am running the ET with SWG, pump, and 2 pool lights that rarely get turned on. Pump is 10amp on high, ET and SWG are 3 amps together from what I can tell. However SWG is wired to only low speed. Not sure about the old style lights. The 2 wires are run in the same conduit. I know this isn’t...

And, I am somewhat trying to stay within code as we are on a 5 year plan at this house. I inherited the wiring, and am really hoping to not hear run cable. This upgrade has already turned into a few more dollars than I had planned on.

Replacing my old timer based panel with the easytouch 4. There are currently 2 circuits run from the main to pad. The first one is a 120V, 14 gauge, 15 amp circuit with just a hot and a neutral. The second is a 240V, 12 gauge, 20 amp circuit with 2 hots and a ground. I have changed plans...

Thank you all for your responses. @Jimrahbe, ScreenLogic looks cool, and I understand the ease of programming, however, my pool is just a pool with a SWG which will be on the Filter relay and 2 lights so I dont think the programming will be too difficult. And I dont care about the wireless...

Hi all, My used/garage sale cell is going out on me, and I have already had to solder on the board of the controller. Three years of chlorine for practically free, not bad. I have therefore convinced myself to get a new SWG system. And while I am at it, go ahead and spend a couple extra...

If you have the Easytouch PL4 or PSL4, you can only have 4 speeds programmed.

Need to know your CYA and salt level as well. You can go ahead and bring the pH down using muratic acid. With a TA that high, you might as well buy a few gallons.