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Without test results, I can tell you that trichlor tablets (those used in chlorinators and floaters) are acidic. They will lower your pH and your TA over time. Your pH will bounce back up, provided your TA isn't too low but your TA will only go down, unless baking soda is added to the pool. When...

Missed the SWG! Better off not using it in this case. Sent from mobile device. Beware of brevity and grammar errors!

How are you chlorinating the pool? Can you post a full set of test results? pH FC CC CYA TA CH Borax (20 Mule Team) is generally recommended for increasing pH here at TFP but further advice needs to be based on your test results.

It's certainly OK to use a limited amount. Using it continuously over time can lead to sulfate deposits/scale in vinyl pools and can attack and permanently scale concrete and plaster surfaces. MA adds no other chemical species to your pool other than ones that are already there. No potential...

I have heard good things about the quality of both these cover brands. I would go with whichever installer gives you the best feeling about proper installation and customer service.

As far as normal, it's hard to say. Every pool is a little different. Dose it down to 7.2 again and then check your TA. If your TA has come down some, your pH rise will slow as well. pH minus, as in the product name, is sodium bisulfate. Otherwise known as dry acid. It's not recommended for...

I wouldn't recommend starting a SLAM without a reliable way to test FC/CC properly. You can prevent it from getting worse and get a slight start by adding about a quart per day until it arrives. You'll want to be able to recheck pH before starting the SLAM in earnest so don't go wild with the...

That's pretty typical in our neighborhood. 2 pools and it's pretty much a free-for-all for neighbor kids in the immediate area PROVIDED their parents are home, we know them and depending on age, are present to watch their kids. That town is just a couple hours away. Glad he had the resources to...

That pump should be fine. Keep in mind that in order to maintain sanitation alone, you really only need to run the pump about 4 hours per day. If you need more skimming action to remove leaves, etc, then you should run the pump longer. Check out this article on pump run time for more info. Can...

Your FC is much too low for your CYA level. You're at the start of an algae bloom. You need to SLAM the pool. You may also want to partially drain it to lower your CYA level to 50 ppm or less. Have you been following TFP guidelines for CYA/Chlorine ratio? Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

Welcome to TFP! :wave: For your size pool, a 3/4 HP pump is actually just fine. A 1.5 HP pump may provide too high of a flow rate for your current filter to adequately filter properly. If the filter is working and you just replaced the sand, no need to replace the filter. Sounds like you're...

Trim to fit. It will keep heat in better and then won't get blown around by the wind, without using brick/weights.

Welcome to TFP! :wave: First and foremost, pool store testing should not be relied upon. It's typically not accurate despite their fancy computerized testing systems with exaggerated precision. It's also inconvenient as you have to travel to the pool store and listen to their usually poor...

That inline chlorinator plumbing/position is... interesting. :???: If you're not using it, I would remove. If you do use it regularly, it would be a good idea to replumb it so that it was resting on the ground rather than suspended in there air on flex PVC. Could be just my selective OCD...

What about your pool equipment? I see your spa information in your signature, but nothing about the pool. That would be very helpful in this situation. Filter size/model, pump HP/model, etc.

Welcome to TFP! :wave: Not much you can do about the rain anyway, so I wouldn't sweat it. If the ground was leveled and compacted properly and there is adequate drainage in the area, I wouldn't be concerned.

If you're insistent on sticking with bromine and/or cannot use CYA, a stenner or other type system to dose chlorine directly into the system would be the easiest for maintenance, with some added equipment upkeep and adjustment. Could also continue to use it after switching to chlorine. UV lamp...

Step one is deciding whether or not you want to follow pool store advice or follow TFP methods. They are not compatible. If you try to combine the two, it will only confuse you even more. TFP methods rely on self-testing your pool with a recommended test kit. Do you have one? IF you want to...

Welcome to TFP! :wave: The last time I had service done on my pool equipment was the addition of a timer. I purchased the Intermatic model I wanted with the proper voltages, etc. and had a licensed electrician install it. In the future, I'd do the same thing with a motor replacement. I'm fairly...

Get a UV that is properly sized or slightly oversized for your GPM. I'm not an expert in UV but the risk with a commercial ozonator is that when they malfunction, ozone isn't healthy for swimmers if excessive amounts are produced indoors (bad for lungs). If your UV malfunctions, it's likely just...

You can certainly build a bromine bank by adding sodium bromide to 30-40 ppm, then use only bleach/liquid chlorine to activate your bromide bank to bromine. This would eliminate DMH build up over time from using tabs. For an indoor pool with high bather load, supplemental ozonator or a...

It's not anything to do with liquid chlorine or any other type of chlorination you might be using. At low pH levels (7.0 to about 7.3) the metals will be dissolved in the pool water. The water may be discolored with a slight yellow or orange tint at this pH when there are metals present. When...

Have you tried holding a trichlor puck against the stain for 30 seconds or so? Too long and you could fade your liner but if it fades with a trichlor puck on it, it's an organic based stain, aka algae. Possibility of something behind the liner? Is this on the bottom of the pool or a wall?

Chlorine usage is extremely low once water is below 70 and not being used. Below 60, I then close and cover, elevating to shock level FC. I always have some FC when opening in the spring. 3-4 ppm from closing at 12 I believe this last year. Sent from mobile device. Beware of brevity and...

From tftestkits.net: As a general precaution, we recommend replacing reagents every year. However, we will guarantee reagents for up to 18 months from date of purchase. If you have a reagent that you think has expired, send back the unused portion and we will send you out a new reagent.

I usually open by early to mid-May. Whenever the water temp approaches 60 degrees with the winter safety cover still on. I close in late September to mid-October. Again, when the water temp is below 60 degrees with the cover off. 60 degrees is the magic number that tells you when to open/close...

Yes, cloudy but blue is still algae. Most of the algae may be dead but there's still algae. You need a test kit that is capable of testing for CYA and higher levels of FC accurately. The TF-100 from tftestkits.net is the best value and has all the tests you need. The Taylor K-2006 is also...

Liquid chlorine (aka bleach) is the best to use since it only adds chlorine to your pool. Powder shocks will always add something you may not want in your pool such as CYA or calcium. You need a proper test kit to determine your CYA level and to test accurately for FC. Do you have a recommended...

This is a good site for comparing costs. Compare and Review Saltwater Chlorine Generator Prices and Features It is generated and maintained by CircuPool so keep that in mind. Be sure to oversize your SWG unit/cell. Pool volume x 2 = the volume rating of the SWG you should buy.

I'm not sure where it's coming from but I have a feeling the pool store/service industry is confusing the word by using it themselves. A single dose of shock IS NOT the same as performing a SLAM procedure. Review this article for what a SLAM actually is and how it is a process not a shock and...