I just left Leslie's Pool. I have had a green pool for two weeks. Leslie's told me I have nitrates at 40 PPM. They sold me 6 pounds of their Fresh N Clear. Then told me to check with them in 2 days. I am really frustrated with this green pool. Yesterday I added algae control and shocked with a pound of Power Powder Plus. Then added another pound of Power Powder Plus this morning. I will go home, get in the pool (above ground), vacuum, brush walls, (which I did Sat & Sun), backwash and add the 6 pounds of Fresh and Clear. I'm so scared. I was told by someone that I should drain my pool & refill. It's already August, and will be taking down in a few weeks. I am so confused with all I've been told. Has anyone had success without draining their pool? Leslie's said that I have to kill the nitrates before going after the Algae. They did say that my TC and FC were high. 10PPM. That maybe I will luck out. You're the pros... your thoughts? Also, Phosphates and Ph was high according to Leslie.
Nitrates at 40ppm-- Help please
- Thread starter Tina Marie
- Start date
Step one is deciding whether or not you want to follow pool store advice or follow TFP methods. They are not compatible. If you try to combine the two, it will only confuse you even more.
TFP methods rely on self-testing your pool with a recommended test kit. Do you have one? IF you want to follow TFP methods and advice, you need one. When you have it, post your full test results and we can help you. Pool store testing is not acceptable. It's worth as much as you pay for it. Nothing.
If you're wanting to try TFP methods, spend some time in Pool School, starting with the ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and get your recommended test kit ordered (TF-100 or K-2006). Until then, we can't give you advice based on poor pool store testing and advice.
Nitrates are entirely irrelevant to pool sanitation. Huge red flag on the advise as well as the phosphates advice. Also irrelevant to pool sanitation when the pool is already green.
TFP methods rely on self-testing your pool with a recommended test kit. Do you have one? IF you want to follow TFP methods and advice, you need one. When you have it, post your full test results and we can help you. Pool store testing is not acceptable. It's worth as much as you pay for it. Nothing.
If you're wanting to try TFP methods, spend some time in Pool School, starting with the ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and get your recommended test kit ordered (TF-100 or K-2006). Until then, we can't give you advice based on poor pool store testing and advice.
Nitrates are entirely irrelevant to pool sanitation. Huge red flag on the advise as well as the phosphates advice. Also irrelevant to pool sanitation when the pool is already green.
Just a quick addition to JVs post. Since you are already green you will want to add the "XL" option to the TF-100 or the "C" option the k-2006. These add the extra stuff you are going to need to SLAM your pool.
Tina, take a deep breath. Your problem can be solved. I've done it, as have most of the other people here. It's just got to be one step at a time, and like JVTrain said, the first step is to purchase a test kit that will give you reliable result. And walk out of Leslie's never to return.
Let's get you set up with a kit that will give you real numbers, and then we can go from there.
Let's get you set up with a kit that will give you real numbers, and then we can go from there.
I sure appreciate everyone's support. I'm 56 and it's my first pool. I was so excited. Getting feedback from voices at work telling me to drain my pool. I just can't make myself do that. Not yet anyway. Thank you for your encouraging words!!!
You just filled with city water. I wouldn't think that the nitrate levels would be that high.
Even if they were, they must have been in the city water. So, draining and refilling wouldn't help.
Check with your city to see what they are currently measuring for nitrate levels.
In any case, as noted, nitrates should not be a problem.
I recommend the TF-100 test kit and pool school for some info.
Follow that and ignore nitrates and phosphates.
Even if they were, they must have been in the city water. So, draining and refilling wouldn't help.
Check with your city to see what they are currently measuring for nitrate levels.
In any case, as noted, nitrates should not be a problem.
I recommend the TF-100 test kit and pool school for some info.
Follow that and ignore nitrates and phosphates.
I'll take the contrary voice and go along with the coworkers. Drain it. Your pool is 8,403 gallons at 90 percent capacity. Refilling it won't cost a fortune. You only have a few weeks left. Do you want to wait three days to get a proper test kit and then spend another sixty bucks on bleach and a week or more doing a SLAM?
If it will cost less then 100$ to drain/fill and scrub. I myself would go that route.
Either way get a TF100-XL.
Take back control of providing a safe environment for your family to swim in, it is easy and very cost efficient.
Either way get a TF100-XL.
Take back control of providing a safe environment for your family to swim in, it is easy and very cost efficient.
While I can see the expediency of just draining and refilling (when I bought this house I had to do just that, as my CYA was ~300) I also see this as a "teach a man to fish" opportunity. Having her learn how simple and easy it is to use the TFP method will make life easy for her from now on.
I doubt that the 40 ppm is accurate. Even if it is, the nitrates must have come from the fill water. How will draining and refilling help?
Maybe take some city water to be tested to see if they also show 40 ppm.
Maybe take some city water to be tested to see if they also show 40 ppm.
- Jun 22, 2017
- 861
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45
I'd say to first order a TF-100 test kit, then while waiting for it to come in, drain, clean with diluted bleach, and refill your pool, just so you can make sure there's no algae in your pool. Better just to start fresh and follow the TFPC guidelines, getting it right from the start. Once it's full, if your test kit hasn't come in yet, use PoolMath (very easy to use) to figure how much CYA to add to get to 30ppm, and add 3/4 of that amount via a sock hanging in front of your return. At the same time, figure up how much bleach to add (plain unscented cheap Walmart bleach) to bring it up to 10ppm to kill anything in your hoses and pump/filter and then add half that amount each day until your kit comes in. Once you test your CYA and it's at 30, test and add bleach each night to bring it up to 6-7 and never let your FC fall below 2ppm.
Phosphates and nitrates are irrelevant if you maintain a proper FC level. I'm gonna steal a phrase I read on here before (sorry, don't remember who said it): you can have a beautiful 5 star buffet in a room, but it's anyone gonna be able to eat it if the rooms filled with chlorine gas? Algae can't survive long enough to eat the phosphates if your FC is high enough to keep them from growing in the first place.
Also, forgot to mention, test your pH when you get your kit and your TA, and adjust those as necessary according to the levels for vinyl, non-swg in the link in my signature. Having a vinyl pool, Calcium Hardness means nothing to you unless it gets outrageously high, so regardless of what the test says, don't add anything for Calcium.
Phosphates and nitrates are irrelevant if you maintain a proper FC level. I'm gonna steal a phrase I read on here before (sorry, don't remember who said it): you can have a beautiful 5 star buffet in a room, but it's anyone gonna be able to eat it if the rooms filled with chlorine gas? Algae can't survive long enough to eat the phosphates if your FC is high enough to keep them from growing in the first place.
Also, forgot to mention, test your pH when you get your kit and your TA, and adjust those as necessary according to the levels for vinyl, non-swg in the link in my signature. Having a vinyl pool, Calcium Hardness means nothing to you unless it gets outrageously high, so regardless of what the test says, don't add anything for Calcium.
If the city water actually is that high, they have bigger problems. The EPA MCL (maximum contaminant level) for nitrate in public water systems is 10 mg/l (~ppm). I doubt the city water is 4 times the national limit, although I understand what you're trying to say.
In any event, nitrate-nitrogen is simply a nutrient that fuels plant growth - such as algae. If the algae is dead, which should be the case if the FC level in a pool is correct, then nitrates become a moot point.
I guess I should clarify. The pool is new this year. We filled it up in June. It was fine up until 2 weeks ago when it started with brown stuff. I was told probably mustard algae. Then turned green. I've been slowly losing my mind over the last two weeks. I guess I could drain, store for the winter. Which is what Intex suggests. That would give me time to get my test kit, etc. I'm thankful I found TFP. You all are great!
I would get the test kit and do a SLAM. If nothing else, you will become good at water quality.
That way, next year you will start right and have a great summer.
Also, summer isn't over. You still have time to enjoy the pool.
Forget about nitrates, phosphates and other such nonsense. A proper SLAM will get the pool crystal clear.
That way, next year you will start right and have a great summer.
Also, summer isn't over. You still have time to enjoy the pool.
Forget about nitrates, phosphates and other such nonsense. A proper SLAM will get the pool crystal clear.
I agree 100%. There is a reason that there is no nitrate or phosphate test in a TF-100 or a K-2006 pool test kit. They are not required to maintain a beautiful pool. Our pool has been crystal clear every single since the day it was filled in 2012. I have never drained it and we have never missed a single swim day in 6 summers. And I've never tested nitrates or phosphates. Lots of clear water pics in my pool thread, link in sig.
Tina - I was right there with you about three or four weeks ago. I wanted to back a dump truck up and fill the pool in I was so frustrated. Multiple trips to the pool store and coming home with $100 worth of chemicals was leading me to the poor house (and the POUR house). Buying the test kit and listening to all of the smart people here was the best thing I have ever done. Once my SLAM was complete, I have barely added anything to the pool and it has remained crystal clear for over 2 weeks now. I test the pool every other day. My only regret is I didn't find this place earlier.
Read everything in the Pool School link above and order one of the recommended test kits. Post your results here and these wonderful people here will help you. Trust me, it works.
Read everything in the Pool School link above and order one of the recommended test kits. Post your results here and these wonderful people here will help you. Trust me, it works.
I'm just going to jump on the bandwagon here and suggest to SLAM this year. Tina, stick around here and we'll get you through this one-time algae issue and by learning everything along the way you'll be all set to for years and years to come. And all the while you'll love your beautiful crystal clear pool with simple, understandable, and affordable maintenance.
- Jun 22, 2017
- 861
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45
Add to your signature that your pool is around 8600 gallons. I thought you were saying your pool was only 1600 gallons until I did the math and was wondering why you didn't just drain it and refill it lol. It's bigger than my pool, and I would slam my own pool for sure.
Ok friends, ordering my test online now. Is there a big difference which test I order? Looks like Wal-Mart has the Taylor k2006 on sale for $59.99. I can get the tf-100 for $70 at poolsupplyonline. Didn't know if one is easier to read than the other. Can I just say I love you all that have responded to save a girl lost in Kansas. Lol Thanks!!
As noted in post #3 There are specific versions of the testkits that you need to order to be sure you get the amount of testing supplies you are going to need.
- - - Updated - - -
The TF-100 was designed with the TFP method in mind and has extra tests of the the ones that you need the most. It uses the same testing supplies as the K-2006, just tweaks the amounts for TFP use.
- - - Updated - - -
The TF-100 was designed with the TFP method in mind and has extra tests of the the ones that you need the most. It uses the same testing supplies as the K-2006, just tweaks the amounts for TFP use.