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Where did you buy your B&D pump? At poolpartstogo.com? My pump turned noisy after a couple of weeks and they sent the replacement right away. The new pump doesn't have any problems. Are you sure that the pump automation adapter is wired for control scheme 1? The IN4 pin must not be connected...

I dont see an expansion joint between the coping and the deck.

This always works for me: If there is a slightest movement between the rail and the cup, the penetrating agent will get sucked into the gap and will lubricate the surfaces.

Why do you insist on having the cell powered from 120V instead of 240 ?

I had an incident several years ago where a herd of deer ran across my old cover. I repaired the cover, but after buying a new one two years later, started putting up a makeshift fence around the pool each year after closing. By now the population of deer in my neighborhood has shrinked...

Literally. First, you need to measure 3 times (at least) before you cut. But then, if you are not strong (powerful?) enough to adjust the components that you just glued together, and you have less than 10 seconds for that, your plumbing is screwed up.

You could do some testing to check how much AC current flows into the heater's controller when the gas is closed and how much when it's open. If there is a significant difference (let's say, at least 50mA), you can find a sensitive current sensor converting current to, for example, 0-10V...

When you blow out the return lines you are also blowing out the booster pump return pipe. Did you see air coming out?

If you can remotely login to pi and the services are running in memory, I doubt there is any problem with the pi or the SD card.

This is my Cyclone lid for Black&Decker VSP:

YW. Be careful when using a 2 1/2 inch hole saw. You can easily damage the lid. An alternative way is this:

SP1023 SPX1091Z7

I remember the yellow dread from the times before I found TFP. I hope it's not the mustard algea in your case... I never really got rid of it in 100%, until my pool got resurfaced and I started applying the TFP knowledge. But since you've already found this place, you will win the battle with...

SWCG is a complex device, with a switch mode DC power supply and control electronics. The reason we can turn it on and off by disconnecting AC power is that it has been designed that way, making integration with the pool easier.

You can’t remove the wires from the back of the lamp. They are an integral part of the lamp.

Finally we have a nice, warm weather here in New Jersey:

I forgot to mention that my Anthony’s skimmer is plumbed to the main drain as well. The 1 1/2 inch opening is threaded, so I plug it first, blow the suction pipe through the pump lid, close the Jandy valve and hope for the best - that the valve will hold the air lock through the winter.

How do you plug the skimmer itself? You disconnect the blower and quickly insert a plug into the pipe shown in the picture above?

I'm sorry - I don't know. I misread the conversation.

I would suggest to replace it with an identical one. They are available on Amazon.

It is a thermistor - a semiconductor device used in circuits to electronically limit the current. They are not supposed to blow off like a fuse :)

That’s horrible. To me it sounds like a mechanical problem, but I’m not an expert. Maybe someone with more experience will chime in…

I didn’t follow up with them. The replacement pump is very quiet at 1600 rpm (can’t hear it from the distance of 10 ft), and that’s the speed it runs most of the time. Didnt try anything higher than 2200 rpm. What’s the speed in the video?

Evaporation and refill could account for a gradual change on a 40,000 gallon body of water, but not from 70 to 120 within a week! I would suspect the reagents in your K2006. Or the DE (or what came with it) that you replaced recently.

My previous setup was with a single speed pump as well ( My new Circupool RJ60+ install), powered by Intermatic P1353 controller. The QF220A worked without issues. As far as a VSP powered by a relay (aside from not being recommended), that in itself should not trip GFCI, especially if the VSP...

If you ask whether 30A breaker will work, it will :) But a better match would be 20A. The "Pentair" version is just a relabelled Siemens. All I can say is QF220A works for me in a similar application without spurious tripping.