What thermistor for Aqua Rite Pro (not the non-Pro)?

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johnnylighton

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Mar 4, 2018
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So Cal
Hi Folks! This is my first post here. I'm grateful for everything I've learned from you all so far. Thanks for any assistance with this board repair!

My thermistor failed. I have the Hayward Aqua Rite Pro. I tried using the techniques posted for the non-Pro circuit board, and also got some inline screw terminals for easy future replacement, but the thermistor I ordered has no way of fitting onto the board or into the screw terminal.

This is the circuit board in my unit:
Aqua Rite Pro board.jpg

This is the thermistor section, the one that failed, and the one that I ordered:
Aqua Rite Pro thermistor.jpg
 
The guide says fuse.

I suspect that a 2 amp fuse would probably work, but I do not know for sure.

If the only other choice is to replace the board, I would probably try a 2 amp fuse.

Maybe someone will post a close up picture of the part with the part number.

Note: Do everything at your own risk and based on your own research.
 
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JamesW said:
The guide says fuse.

I suspect that a 2 amp fuse would probably work, but I do not know for sure.

If the only other choice is to replace the board, I would probably try a 2 amp fuse.

Maybe someone will post a close up picture of the part with the part number.

Note: Do everything at your own risk and based on your own research.
Click to expand...
It is a thermistor - a semiconductor device used in circuits to electronically limit the current. They are not supposed to blow off like a fuse :)
 
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A clear picture of the actual part with the part number is the key.
In the interim, can you post clear pictures of the solder side focusing on the R48 section from various angles? It might be a long shot but perhaps the circuit trace would provide us a clue as to what the part is.
 
JamesW said:
I suspect that the fuse will probably fail again unless you can figure out why it blew out in the first place.
Click to expand...
I wish you didn't have this suspicion, but here's another bit of info that suggests you're on the right track: I read online that I could put a binder clip across the cracked component to operate the unit while I'm waiting for the replacement part to arrive. I tried doing that (before I started this thread), and when I put a tiny binder clip to bridge the broken part, the circuit breaker in my panel immediately blew. So it seems like there's another problem.

I'll take detailed photos of the front and back of the circuit board and try to figure out if there's another part that's failed. If I find something, I'll post it.
 

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