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This may be an obvious question, but does the gauge go back to zero when the pump if off? If not, it could have a bad gauge.

The SLAM number is the amount of FC you need in ppm. To calculate that, enter your pool information into PoolMath. That will tell you how much Bleach/Liquid Chlorine you will need to get to SLAM Level (24 ppm for CYA 60), you must test often and add more chlorine to keep it there until you...

The FC at 4 with a CYA at 60 is your problem. With CYA at 60, your minimum FC is 5, you are possibly in the beginning of an algae bloom which will get worse if you don't attack it now. See Chlorine / CYA Chart - Trouble Free Pool You need to SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain - Trouble Free Pool

What are you using to test the chlorine? Can you post a picture of the water? Can you post a full set of test results from your own kit?

I have found that the salt dissolves pretty quickly. I usually dump it in and then do my brushing. By the time I am done, the salt is pretty much dissolved.

I concur with @ajw22. My current TA is 170, although I am adding a little over a quart (5 cups) about every three days to drop from 7.8 to 7.5. My fill water is 250 and my pool is only about 5 weeks old, so in the 5 weeks my TA has dropped that much. Over time, the rate of rise will slow...

Very glad that you were able to get it going!

FWIW, that is the exact salt product my builder used for our initial startup. My pool is only a month old now, but I have not seen any issue with the salt whatsoever.

I had one of those setups on my older ABG pool. You need to prime the vacuum hose before you put the adapter on the skimmer. Place the vacuum head into the water upside down. Then use the other end of the vacuum hose and press it into the return fitting so the water returning to the pool runs...

Do you have a SWG? What is your Total Alkalinity? How are you testing?

Thank you very much. I will say that our builder did and does take a lot of pride in his work. He has been great to work with through the entire process. He was there every single day of the build. It was basically him, his son and a buddy of his son that did it all. Although you may not...

Thank you, it is actually a grey color, the picture does make it look a little brown.

We've still got a lot of landscaping to do, which will include lighting. Here is mine with the pool lights on.

The vast majority of the people on this forum stood exactly where you are standing right now. The advice and help you will receive here will make your head spin at first, but once you’ve digested pool school and understand the concepts you’ll be armed with everything you need to never be pool...

@Abauman25 Welcome to the Forum. Good to see a fellow Nebraskan here!

That is correct.

We finished our build recently. Towards the end of the build our builder handed me the eyeballs and said he didn't like to use them but would leave them with me if I wanted to install them. He explained his reasoning but I wasn't really listening at that point. Once he packed up and left, I...

Your post inspired me to try to get a perfect TFP shot. Here’s my pool tonight. Those floaters are actually on the water, not air. And the dolphin is making his way from the deep end to the shallow end. TFP works.

jman28, I don't have any advise outside of what is mentioned above other than to say keep up the good work and you will soon have a nice clear, clean and safe pool! Trust and follow the process.

Thank you Kim. I left it running all day today and tested again about 30 minutes ago. It tested at 7.5. Meaning it actually raised 1 ppm throughout the day while in full sun! I think I can adjust from here. I’m going to start playing with pump run times and % output to keep it in the zone. I’m...

15 minutes after you dose up to 10 PPM. FC greater than 5PPM, no ammonia, add CYA via sock method, add muriatic acid to lower PH to 7.2, proceed with SLAM. FC less than 5PPM, possible ammonia, redose to 10 and test again after 15 minutes. Keep in that cycle until FC holds above 5.

I would simply raise the FC to 10, use PoolMath - Trouble Free Pool to calculate. Circulate for 15 minutes and test. The algae will consume some of it, so don't expect it to test at 10. You're looking for any value above 5. Ammonia will consume the chlorine very quickly if it is present. I...

Was your FC test done with the 25ML sample or the 10ML sample? If 10, your FC would be 1. If 25, your FC would be 0.4. Now that we got that out of the way, you need to SLAM. Start by knocking your PH down to 7.2, that should be an easy win. After that, I find it hard to believe there is 0...

Concrete decking sealer was put on yesterday, so I was able to salt the pool. I aimed for 3000 ppm yesterday morning and tested last night at 3200 ppm (salt test strips, yuck). I plan to get the Taylor salt test when I have to order refills for my kit. I have never managed a pool with a salt...

I would stop adding ANYTHING to the water other than chlorine until your test kit arrives. Simply put, everything else is just shooting in the dark. Your only goal is to try to keep it from getting much worse between now and when you can properly test your water. I would add 5 PPM of chlorine...

Yes, target is what you should aim for, knowing that you will lose some to the sun and some to contaminants throughout the course of the day. If you can test at roughly the same time each day, you'll know exactly how much you lose each day and can adjust your target up or down within the target...

Oh yes, they are earning their keep. Currently paying out $5/hr for shovel work, interestingly enough my youngest has put in the most hours!

We are finishing up our build, see thread here: Signing Contract soon! Central Nebraska Pool Build We had 6 days from when we filled to when we were able to fire up the pump/filter. I approached it by adding 5PPM chlorine each day, brushing as best I could to get it all mixed up and then...