- May 3, 2014
- 62,717
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Aquarite cell not generating
- Thread starter dosmom
- Start date
What is the recommended test kit that would include everything I need to test (chlorine, salt, maybe stabilizer, etc)? Thank you
Last edited by a moderator:
- May 3, 2014
- 62,717
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,429
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Thank you. This makes sense. Is a low salt level on the display ever a result of a bad board? Also, does a lower calculated salt level produce less chlorine?“He” does not know what he is talking about.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,429
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Show us what the thermistor on the board looks like.
Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
No, the system indicates low salt at 2800 and shuts down at 2600.
Basic AquaRite Diagnostics
This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:
Report all diagnostic readings when you..
Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:
Report all diagnostic readings when you..
Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
Hello, below are the results. For the actual salt reading, my salt kit has not yet arrived so I went to 3 different stores and averaged it. They were all between 2500-2900. I know this isn't the preferred way but no choice at this point. Also, the cell was not generating at time of the test as the salt was below 2300 according to the panel
Thank you in advance for your help. As a reminder, I have the Hayward T9. I did the bucket test with the cell and saw a lot of bubbles/chlorine.
First 7 digits of serial # are 3E18289. I bought it 2019
flip switch from auto to off
2000
87
32.5
0
71p
0
al0
1.55
T9
measured salt 2700
from off to auto
2000
87
26
2.83
71p
-1800
al0
1.55
t9
measured salt 2700
off for a minute and back to auto
2000
87
32.4
3.41
72p
-2300
al0
1.55
t9
measured salt 2700
Last edited:
The cell is failing.
You can change the cell type to T-5 to make it work for a little while longer, but it is time to replace the cell.
You can change the cell type to T-5 to make it work for a little while longer, but it is time to replace the cell.
1800/2700 = 67%
2300/2700 = 85%
On one side, you have 67% performance and on the other side, you have 85% performance.
Anything below 75%, I consider to be failing.
Also, significantly different readings on each side and I consider it a fail.
If you change the cell type to T-5, you can get some more life out of the cell because it will make it read higher than actual.
1,800 will change to about 2,400 ppm.
2,300 ppm will change to about 3,065 ppm.
You can also add more salt to make it work longer.
The cell will work as long as the Average Salinity is above 2,400 ppm.
2300/2700 = 85%
On one side, you have 67% performance and on the other side, you have 85% performance.
Anything below 75%, I consider to be failing.
Also, significantly different readings on each side and I consider it a fail.
If you change the cell type to T-5, you can get some more life out of the cell because it will make it read higher than actual.
1,800 will change to about 2,400 ppm.
2,300 ppm will change to about 3,065 ppm.
You can also add more salt to make it work longer.
The cell will work as long as the Average Salinity is above 2,400 ppm.
Last edited:
Thank you. It is good to understand. What are the steps to test each polarity for the future? Do I flip from auto to off and check and then back to auto and check?
Thank you. Another question. Not sure if you saw this in the thread but after the system shuts down overnight I have to either wiggle or often reseat the display board to get the salt panel to power up. It then stays on al day. If it only shuts down for a couple of hours it is fine, but when off for 5-10 hours it needs some help.
Any thoughts on if this is a bad display or board?
Maybe a bad display board or main board.
Hard to tell for sure.
Maybe some pictures of both would be helpful.
ok. Will send tonight. It is like clockwork though, every morning. This morning I had to reseat the display, which is what it normally wants. Both are probably about 14 years old.
Maybe try some contact cleaner.
Many different brands like WD-40.
Note: Not regular WD-40.
Many different brands like WD-40.
Note: Not regular WD-40.