Need to Lower Salt ppm, Ph, and Clear the Green

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C

CC57

Well-known member
Jul 5, 2010
87
Cypress, TX
Pool Size
16000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
So, long story short, due to a dead SWG, I ended up with too much salt (>5,500 PPM) and a green pool.

So, here shortly one the sun starts to set (I’m just outside Houston and its dang hot out now) I’m going to run tests, get my FC, CTA, etc. readings.

In the meantime, to help bring the salt ppm down, plus my pool has been reading a fairly consistent 8.2 pH reading, I was thinking I need to and should dilute my pool.

Was thinking of turning off the pool filter, dropping a garden hose in the deep end, turn it on, and let the overflow valve vent the excess out. Run the hose a few hours, which should help exchange some of the water.
Hoping this would dilute the water to a manageable level, and then the SWG could start running again and producing chlorine.

Does this approach make sense, or is there another way I should go about this?
 
Mknauss, not saying I disagree, but is there another option versus the investment in a sump pump, which would probably be a one time use?
 
Not really. I am surprised you do not need a sump pump for major rain events. Rarely do overflows handle tropical storms, etc.

You can do your method. Put the hose as far away from the overflow outlet you can. It will work some. Might have to do it several times or just displace 50-100% more than you should need. Other option is to run the pool pump and mix it while you overflow. Might be the best method to reduce the volume you use.
 
Well, here are the readings. Not good, but about where I figured they would be.
pH: 8.2
FC: 0
TA: 100
CYA: may be 40, but probably closer to 30
Salt, per Taylor drops: ~7,000!

HELP!

Suggested next steps.

And I sincerely appreciate and will try to follow all suggestions.
 
So you need to exchange out at least 50-60% of the water.
You will need a sump pump for an exchange.

How is your surface water nearby? Can you do a fast drain (rent a sump pump from Home Depot) and then refill.
 
Appreciate all the help Marty.

What do you mean "How is your surface water nearby?"
And I just checked HD, and could rent a pump from them.
Queston on this: "Other option is to run the pool pump and mix it while you overflow. Might be the best method to reduce the volume you use." Why wouldn't I want to go this route? I don't mind doing it, but somewhat uncomfortable draining ~8,000 gallons from the pool.

Back in a bit
 
Surface water would be sloughs, ponds, creeks, washes, etc. If you drain a pool, it can pop out of the ground. If you dig a hole in your yard, how deep can you go before you hit water?

You can do the mix and drain. I do not know how expensive your water is. Likely would need to use close to your pool volume of fresh water to get the salt reduced.
 
"If you drain a pool, it can pop out of the ground" And that is what has me concerned.
I've always heard the reason there aren't basements here in Houston was because the water table was to close to the surface. Not too sure how much of that is a wive's tale, and how much it still applies has the population boom is draining the local aquifers, but I don't want to test it.

I think, for now, I'm going to give the hose in the pool route a try.

Thanks again
 
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Long story short, due to a dead SWG, I ended up with too much salt (~6,200 PPM, we had a month of excessive rain & I added salt thinking the rain was diluting the water) and a green pool.

I’ve got a new SGW in place now, but with the salt so high the SWG will not kick on. So, we’ve got no chlorine and a green pool.

Looking for suggestions and guidance as I’m not sure of which is the best direction to go, and how/where to start.

Based on the suggestion of a TFS member in another TFS forum thread and what just seems to make common sense, I’m renting a sump pump to drain off 50 to 60% of the current water, and refill.

Also note the last TFS-100 tests I ran showed 0 chlorine (no surprise there) and CYA of ~30. Additionally, in the days/weeks leading up to the SWG dying the pool has been reading a fairly consistent 8.2 pH reading.

So please help me out here as I want to have on hand the correct chemicals and volume of said chemicals to SLAM and/or prep the water after the drain and refill.

Per “TFP's Recommended Free Chlorine Levels”, with a CYA = 30, the SLAM Level is 12.

But I’m missing what in need to use to reach this SLAM level 12, how do I test for that level, etc. I’ve read though the “SLAM – Shock Level and Maintain” section a couple of times, but I must be missing the directions or hyper-links to the required directions.

Any and all help is requested.

Thanks all.
 

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Once you are complete with the drain and refill, test CYA again. If under 30 ppm, add enough stabilizer to add 10 ppm CYA to the water.
Adjust the pH to 7.2 using muriatic acid.
Add enough liquid chlorine to get to 12 ppm FC. Use PoolMath
Two gallons of 10% liquid chlorine will add right at 12 ppm FC to your pool.
 
Just ran across a video that warned against draining a pool when the temps are hot, like they currently are in Houston, TX.

Temps will reach close to 100 again today (Sunday 7/2). Current temp at 7:45 AM Central is 82.

Would it best then for me to drain in the early morning hours, say from sun-up until around 9, 9:30, and refill the pool. So I can get the water level back into the pool so the water protects the plaster from cracking or blistering?

If yes, sounds like replacing 50 to 60% of the water (~8,000 gals) is going to take a few days to accomplish.

Also, not that I think we'll need to very often, if ever again, guess it's best to purchase a pump. Any opinion or thoughts on this pump: Superior Pump 91570 1/2 HP Thermoplastic Submersible Utility Pump with 10-Foot Cord?

Does it sound like I'm on the right track?
 
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Ok, so over the last couple of days, while the pump was running, I had a garden hose dropped in at one end of the pool adding new fresh water. This was my way of diluting the water to get the sallt ppms in check.
I've been steadily cycling the system at the "Diagnostic" level and seeing the ppms decreasing. The latest shows the level now down to 3,700ppm.

This should be in range for the SWG to kick on.

But the panel is still saying "Check system High Salt/Amps". So the SWG will not kick on/in.

Plus, the panel is listing the salt at 1900ppm, which does not line up with the reading shown when I cycle at the Diagnostic level.

Other than filling this pool full of dirt and planting a garden, any suggestions?

EDIT: I plan to test with my TF100 and Taylor Salt tester later today. I'll add those test to this thread reading then,
 
mknauss said:
So your Taylor K1766 kit shows 3700 ppm?
Click to expand...
No sir. The Goldline Controls remote panel, which is remotely connected the main board.
While I do want to test with the Taylor kit, and see what the readings show, I think it's important that the readings from the panel are taken into account, as it's those reading that will ultimately control the SWG.
 
The readout on the panel is not really a true salinity. It is a algorithm based on the performance of the cell. You need a true salinity to see if the cell is depleted, or possible if some of the board components have failed.

Hayward Aqualogic - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
From the above Wiki

High Salt/Amps​

The “Chlorinator Off High Salt” warning comes on when the current exceeds 8 amps regardless of the salt level. This can be caused by high salt but also by high water temperatures. [1]

If it says high salt, the amps were above 8.0. If the volts are more than 32 at any point, the circuit board is probably damaged.[2]

Check under the diagnostics menu for the correct cell size. If you select the cell size to t-3, t-5 or t-9 instead of the correct t-15 then the salt readout from the controller will be high salt.[3]

AquaLogic K1 Relay bad solder.jpg
Common cause is failure of the solder joint to the K1 relay.[4] The K1 relay does not need to be replaced. It only needs to be re-soldered. To check if this might be your problem, unscrew the mother board and turn it over, if there is black smoke/burn marks at the K1 relay solder point, this is likely your problem.
 
Thanks for the above. I'll review the information in the link you provided, and check out the board.
Thanks again.
 
Update:

I kept adding fresh water via garden hose. Finally got the salt level/amp readings read by the panel to a point where the Amps dropped. It's now in a range where the SWG could operate as needed.

Took readings this, 7/9, AM:
pH: 8.4 NOTE: I’ve been fighting to get these down to acceptable levels for a while. Even prior to when the SWG T-cell decided to die. I’ve been adding the pool math apps recommended dosages.
FC: 0
CC: 0.5
TC: 0.5
CH: 225
TA: 80
CYA: <30, 20 I would say

So, reading TFP on how to get the algae (worse I’ve ever had it in 16 years of ownership on this pool). lead me to the SLAM section.
If I understood what I read, I need to get the pH in check first. And per Pool Math app, 16,000 gal pool, with a current pH o 84., and a recommended oH of 7.4, TA = 80, using 31.45% - 200 Baume, says add 24 oz (3 cups, 6 oz) of acid.

Couple of questions if y’all don’t mind.

1. Based on my reading and situation, adjusting the pH is step 1, correct?
2. If I read it correctly, the SLAM process stated to run off the SWG during this process. On this panel, it would appear the only way to manually turn the SWG on or off would be to run the pool chlorinator level down to 0%. Would you agree this is the correct way to meet the SLAM requirement?
2. Is the 30 oz of Baume going to cut it? As I said above, I’ve been fighting a high pH level for a while. And I have been dosing the pool with the Math app’s recommended dosage of Baume. Hence why I ask is 30 ounces enough? Just does not seem like a couple of cups of acid woud be enough to affect a balance in a 16,000 gallon pool
3. I won’t be hurting or delaying my algae ridding effort by me vacuuming the algae, growth, etc. off the bottom of the pool right now, correct?

Would it appear I’m on the correct track?
Any other recommendations?

Thanks all for your guidance.
 
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1. That's correct
2. If it doesn't continue to add acid until you get pH well under 8.0 (how are you testing 6.4, anyways?)
3. Vacuuming is part of the SLAM process so, "No"

Additionally, regardless of how much acid it takes your pH needs to be in the 7"s and it should test in the 7.s with the phenol red test supplied with your kit

Before you start to SLAM, raise your CYA to 30 ppm. It makes the SLAM a little easier to control
 
CC57 said:
1. Based on my reading and situation, adjusting the pH is step 1, correct?
Click to expand...
Yes.
CC57 said:
Is the 30 oz of Baume going to cut it?
Click to expand...
yes. 30 oz will lower it 0.5. Do that, let it circulate for 30 minutes, test pH, repeat until you are in the lower 7's.
CC57 said:
3. I won’t be hurting or delaying my algae ridding effort by me vacuuming the algae, growth, etc. off the bottom of the pool right now, correct?
Click to expand...
No.
CC57 said:
Would it appear I’m on the correct track?
Click to expand...
Yes. Be sure the CYA is near 30 ppm for SLAM. Happy hunting.
 

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