Equipment working together, e.g. chlorinator, ozone generator, UV, ...

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DaTruAndi

Member
Nov 25, 2022
7
Florida
Hello new friends here,

I want to make our pool more fool-proof especially when traveling and throw technology at the problem.
So, besides of chlorination we have e.g. ozone generators or UV sanitizers, and then eg additional pre-filters.

I wonder which ones play together well and which not?
e.g. would a UV sanitizer break down the ozone?
And in which order (water flow) should you install them?

And which technologies are maybe not working at all?

Since I noticed quite some local techs sometimes even do not know the basics, I hope that our expert community here can help with some guidance.

Salt Chlorinator
Pool size probably 15k-20k - so aiming at capacity of 40k chlorinators
so thought about
CIrcuPool because of warranty and comparatively lower salt cell replacement cost - does that make sense? Local companies skew heavily towards Pentair.
My must-have feature there is the "hyper chlorination" feature.

Ozone, if it does anything ...
CircuPool INDIGO3-XL Ozone Generator for Swimming Pools?


UV - maybe CMP Wave UV-C 50?


And pre-filter maybe
CircuPool TJ-16 "Typhoon" Centrifugal Pre-Filter

Any thoughts?
 
I can tell you my experience. We travel to the beach a lot and are gone for 2 or 3 weeks.
I have a 23K pool and an edge 40 SWG. When I leave my FC is at 8 and water is perfect. When I come back 3 weeks later nothing has changed, water is still crystal clear. IMHO a SWG is all you need.
I have a large cartridge filter and only clean it 3 times a year, not sure what type filter you have but might consider getting a bigger one if you’re concerned about it getting stopped up.
 
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markayash said:
I can tell you my experience. We travel to the beach a lot and are gone for 2 or 3 weeks.
I have a 23K pool and an edge 40 SWG. When I leave my FC is at 8 and water is perfect. When I come back 3 weeks later nothing has changed, water is still crystal clear. IMHO a SWG is all you need.
I have a large cartridge filter and only clean it 3 times a year, not sure what type filter you have but might consider getting a bigger one if you’re concerned about it getting stopped up.
Click to expand...
I tried a cyclone precleaner around 8 years ago and it didn’t help me. If you get a lot of sand it might but most of mine was stuff off trees went through due to floating
 
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Welcome to TFP.

UV, Ozone Systems, Mineral systems, and Prefilters are unnecessary gadgets.

All you need is a good SWG that is at least 2X your pool volume, a large cartridge filter, a good VS pool pump, and a good test kit - Taylor K-2006C or TFT Test Kits

Then follow TFPC Methods....

www.troublefreepool.com

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Ozone Systems - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

UV Systems - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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Da,

You will find that most of us here at TFP believe in science and not Magic. :mrgreen:

One of the major problems with UV and OZone is that you can't easily test to ensure they are doing what you want them to do. Unlike chlorine, which is easy to test and determine how well it is working to sanitize your pool.

Since you still have to use Chlorine with any UV or OZone system, why bother? Just use Chlorine and you are done.

I am simple and I like simple... :goodjob:

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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PoolStored said:
^^^What @ajw22 said, everyday of the week, 24/7, 365.

I love the Circupool RJ series. Has been bulletproof, great warrantee and has 5% output increments. I have never used the hyper-chlorination. Why would this be "must-have" for you?
Click to expand...
To not need to shock? In my understanding you still shock salt water pools once in a while?

Just read that the RJ series has a cold water shutoff it does not recover from automatically.
If that is still the case - Where we are (NE Florida) this may be an annoyance in the winter.
 
ajw22 said:
Welcome to TFP.

UV, Ozone Systems, Mineral systems, and Prefilters are unnecessary gadgets.

All you need is a good SWG that is at least 2X your pool volume, a large cartridge filter, a good VS pool pump, and a good test kit - Taylor K-2006C or TFT Test Kits

Then follow TFPC Methods....

www.troublefreepool.com

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Ozone Systems - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

UV Systems - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
Thanks!
Didn’t plan upgrading the pump until it fails - are you suggesting it’s a good idea to do so even though the existing pump works fine?
As for testing - I am lazy, so any automation is welcome.
What do you consider a large cartridge filter? I have a Hayward C1200 size.
 
DaTruAndi said:
To not need to shock? In my understanding you still shock salt water pools once in a while?
Click to expand...
No you do not need to shock! Here is a really good place to start. ->>Pool Care Basics
DaTruAndi said:
Just read that the RJ series has a cold water shutoff it does not recover from automatically.
If that is still the case - Where we are (NE Florida) this may be an annoyance in the winter.
Click to expand...
Does your pool water get below 60 Degrees? Where did you read that, I don't believe that is correct.

DaTruAndi said:
As for testing - I am lazy, so any automation is welcome.
Click to expand...
Until you figure out the automation, I would get a good test kit -->Test Kits Compared

Most automation solutions work really well, except when it comes to testing. There really are no automated testing capabilities that don't require some sort of compromise or issue.
pH - there are some good solution for pH testing and muriatic acid dosing. They take a bit of care as the salts precipitate and require cleaning.
FC- there are ORP solutions. The basic problem is that an ORP sensor does not know how much CL is bound with CYA that can be freed as needed. As a result ORP system with high CYA will think that CL is low when it is not. An ORP system cannot work as designed with high CYA levels.

With a good pump (programmable VSP or automation) and a good SWCG, manual testing takes less that 10 minutes a week for me.

There are no automated solutions, really, for CH, TA, CYA

Here is some good reading on one option, and some of the associated issues.

Pentair IntelliChem - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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DaTruAndi said:
What do you consider a large cartridge filter? I have a Hayward C1200 size.
Click to expand...

A Hayward C1200 is a 120 sq ft filter.

A filter in the 400-500 sq foot range is a large cartridge filter.

For some unknown reason Florida pool builders like to put in puny filters.
 
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It takes a few weeks to get it dialed in but after that you will enjoy it. Before it was test, add Liquid chlorine and test again. Now once it's dialed in I just add a little acid every 2 weeks, If I am gone the PH might climb up but nothing that will cause issues. I keep a few gallons at home and just pour a little in every few weeks

If you want to not have to deal with your pool, like me, get a SWG..Be the best money you spend :)
 
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DaTruAndi said:
To not need to shock? In my understanding you still shock salt water pools once in a while?

Just read that the RJ series has a cold water shutoff it does not recover from automatically.
If that is still the case - Where we are (NE Florida) this may be an annoyance in the winter.
Click to expand...
If you follow the guidance here, you will rarely, if ever, need to SLAM (Shock, level and maintain) your pool. I occasionally (usually in the spring) need to add chlorine as the days get longer and warmer - it's a matter of keeping the chlorine level high enough as I adjust SWG percentage and run times.
We're 4 years into pool ownership (new build) and have followed the TFP method and guidance from the start.
 
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poolnoobgrandma said:
If you follow the guidance here, you will rarely, if ever, need to SLAM (Shock, level and maintain) your pool. I occasionally (usually in the spring) need to add chlorine as the days get longer and warmer - it's a matter of keeping the chlorine level high enough as I adjust SWG percentage and run times.
We're 4 years into pool ownership (new build) and have followed the TFP method and guidance from the start.
Click to expand...
You need to be more generous in your SWG % and pump runtime to generate more daily chlorine. Being high on your FC is never a problem, being low is. Use The target FC as your minimum FC and then you can make adjustments to your SWG as the season changes without needing to supplement with LC.
 
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ajw22 said:
You need to be more generous in your SWG % and pump runtime to generate more daily chlorine. Being high on your FC is never a problem, being low is. Use The target FC as your minimum FC and then you can make adjustments to your SWG as the season changes without needing to supplement with LC.
Click to expand...
For sure. Here in the sunny south that uv can spike fast. If I get busy for a few days during that rapid rise, the SWG can "fall behind" a bit. Not levels in the danger zone, but lower than I like. I dial it up, give it the boost from LC, and we're good.
 
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