fuse keeps blowing on Hayward swim pure salt water panel.
- Thread starter chris4150
- Start date
Reinstalled OEM board with new display board, here are the diagnostics without any changes
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I ordered from Ebay and then saw your post so I ordered a set from digi key. The Ebay ones came first so i installed them
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I appreciate yalls input and expertise. The fix was the rectifiers and a new display board. The display board was already having problems before the rectifiers went out. I'm stuck with a new non OEM board, but $300 for new PCB board, display board, and rectifiers beats $1,200 for a new system as recommended by a pool tech after the new non OEM board was popping the 20amp fuse. I guess he didnt think of the rectifiers. None the less, I again appreciate the help.
Ok, all of the diagnostics look good.
Once you get an accurate measurement for the actual salinity, divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity to see how well the cell is performing.
For example, if the instant is 2,000 ppm and the actual is 2,800 ppm, then the performance is 71%.
At 75%, it's time to consider replacing the cell.
At 60%, the cell is considered failed.
Check for scale and clean the cell if and only if it has scale.
Once you get an accurate measurement for the actual salinity, divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity to see how well the cell is performing.
For example, if the instant is 2,000 ppm and the actual is 2,800 ppm, then the performance is 71%.
At 75%, it's time to consider replacing the cell.
At 60%, the cell is considered failed.
Check for scale and clean the cell if and only if it has scale.
What if the 20 amp fuse still blows after you disconnect the black and red wires from the board that go to the rectifiers?Ok.
The one terminal that is different from the rest can also be identified by the 90 degree rotation from the rest.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,501
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I just encountered a smimlar problem. My F1 20amp fuse not only was blown but melted. The fuse pins are corroded due to high contact resistance. Also, Pins #2 & 4 on the Molex connector are charred. I had to construct a Bypass for them directly to the PCB board underside via a WAGO connector. Thanks for the info and your past troubleshooting efforts. Fortunately the fuses and rectifiers are available on Amazon-2 day delivery!
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Just installed a new PCB board after the original worked fine for 5 years.
Salt cell was replaced a year or so ago with a Blue Works T-15
GLX-PCB-RITE
New PCB board worked great, it was pumping out massive chlorine even at 30% setting. Old setting was at 70 on the original board.
New board just fried the 20A yellow fuse, fuse never popped, totally melted like yours, burned board on front and back side. Only 3-4 weeks old?
Ideas? Lightning strike? bad board? bad recifiers? bad power supply?
There's only 4 parts in this thing...power supply, recifiers, main board, display board.
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Also, why do the Hayward GLX rectifiers come with fuses?
If I order the pair from Mouser, is this all I need to replace the existing rectifiers?
Amazon.com: Hayward GLX-DRK Old Style Dual Rectifier Replacement Kit for Hayward AQR Goldline Aqua Rite Salt Chlorine Generators : Patio, Lawn & Garden
Amazon.com: Hayward GLX-DRK Old Style Dual Rectifier Replacement Kit for Hayward AQR Goldline Aqua Rite Salt Chlorine Generators : Patio, Lawn & Garden
www.amazon.com
If I order the pair from Mouser, is this all I need to replace the existing rectifiers?
Soo.I have the PCB Rite board and the two rectifiers from mouser. However...they did not send, and I can not seem to find the insulator tape. (Square insulator between the rectifier and the metal haward housing).
Has anyone sourced this? Please let me know. Need to get this chlorinator back up and running ASAP.
Has anyone sourced this? Please let me know. Need to get this chlorinator back up and running ASAP.