fuse keeps blowing on Hayward swim pure salt water panel.

[C0d3Sp4c3]

See the above post# 25 or this \/ ....

 

[chris4150]

Just push the little black button and record all of the readings.

Salt does not go away unless you lose water other than evaporation and then refill with fresh water.

So, the salinity should be about the same as before unless you have lost a lot of water and refilled.

You should get a K-1766 salt test kit and/or a good salinity meter to verify the actual salinity.

good deal, Ill post this afternoon.

 

[JamesW]

Just for reference, which rectifiers did you get?

 

[chris4150]

I cannot help with a non-OEM Hayward pcb. I can only assume your salt level is way too low for the cell to produce chlorine or perhaps the cell is dying. Hence, the fault condition. How are you measuring your salinity? But anyway, I was about to suggest to re-install the old board for comparison. All you need is a couple of female Spade connectors for the AC power.
Should you decide to use the old board, run the diagnostic 10 secs after the "Generating" LED comes on and post all the readings. You have exactly 50 seconds before the controller error out if it detects any fault condition.

Reinstalled OEM board with new display board, here are the diagnostics without any changes

 

[chris4150]

Just for reference, which rectifiers did you get?

I ordered from Ebay and then saw your post so I ordered a set from digi key. The Ebay ones came first so i installed them

 

[chris4150]

I ordered from Ebay and then saw your post so I ordered a set from digi key. The Ebay ones came first so i installed them

I appreciate yalls input and expertise. The fix was the rectifiers and a new display board. The display board was already having problems before the rectifiers went out. I'm stuck with a new non OEM board, but $300 for new PCB board, display board, and rectifiers beats $1,200 for a new system as recommended by a pool tech after the new non OEM board was popping the 20amp fuse. I guess he didnt think of the rectifiers. None the less, I again appreciate the help.

 

[JamesW]

Ok, all of the diagnostics look good.

Once you get an accurate measurement for the actual salinity, divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity to see how well the cell is performing.

For example, if the instant is 2,000 ppm and the actual is 2,800 ppm, then the performance is 71%.

At 75%, it's time to consider replacing the cell.

At 60%, the cell is considered failed.

Check for scale and clean the cell if and only if it has scale.

 

[Coilse]

Ok.

The one terminal that is different from the rest can also be identified by the 90 degree rotation from the rest.

What if the 20 amp fuse still blows after you disconnect the black and red wires from the board that go to the rectifiers?

 

[ajw22]

What if the 20 amp fuse still blows after you disconnect the black and red wires from the board that go to the rectifiers?

Welcome to TFP.

One or both rectifiers are shorted.

 

[Waterdrop]

I just encountered a smimlar problem. My F1 20amp fuse not only was blown but melted. The fuse pins are corroded due to high contact resistance. Also, Pins #2 & 4 on the Molex connector are charred. I had to construct a Bypass for them directly to the PCB board underside via a WAGO connector. Thanks for the info and your past troubleshooting efforts. Fortunately the fuses and rectifiers are available on Amazon-2 day delivery!

 

[ufg8rmike]

I just encountered a smimlar problem. My F1 20amp fuse not only was blown but melted. The fuse pins are corroded due to high contact resistance. Also, Pins #2 & 4 on the Molex connector are charred. I had to construct a Bypass for them directly to the PCB board underside via a WAGO connector. Thanks for the info and your past troubleshooting efforts. Fortunately the fuses and rectifiers are available on Amazon-2 day delivery!

Just installed a new PCB board after the original worked fine for 5 years.
Salt cell was replaced a year or so ago with a Blue Works T-15

GLX-PCB-RITE​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09Y2TVSN4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

New PCB board worked great, it was pumping out massive chlorine even at 30% setting. Old setting was at 70 on the original board.
New board just fried the 20A yellow fuse, fuse never popped, totally melted like yours, burned board on front and back side. Only 3-4 weeks old?

Ideas? Lightning strike? bad board? bad recifiers? bad power supply?

There's only 4 parts in this thing...power supply, recifiers, main board, display board.

 

[ufg8rmike]

Also, why do the Hayward GLX rectifiers come with fuses?

Amazon.com: Hayward GLX-DRK Old Style Dual Rectifier Replacement Kit for Hayward AQR Goldline Aqua Rite Salt Chlorine Generators : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Amazon.com: Hayward GLX-DRK Old Style Dual Rectifier Replacement Kit for Hayward AQR Goldline Aqua Rite Salt Chlorine Generators : Patio, Lawn & Garden

www.amazon.com

If I order the pair from Mouser, is this all I need to replace the existing rectifiers?

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=G5AQjGfRJcIZB%2FzigwRp4A%3D%3D

 

[ufg8rmike]

Soo.I have the PCB Rite board and the two rectifiers from mouser. However...they did not send, and I can not seem to find the insulator tape. (Square insulator between the rectifier and the metal haward housing).

Has anyone sourced this? Please let me know. Need to get this chlorinator back up and running ASAP.