30 years maintaining my pool and oblivious to the topic of CYA

Metron9

Member
May 25, 2021
12
Minnesota
Hi, 63 years old and still learning.
I have a 20x40 pool inside a greenhouse . The greenhouse is full acrylic double wall 17 foot peak 108 x 39 feet. I use to grow flower baskets on a computerized cable system above the pool but Walmart put us out of business.

anyway, every year after a few months of perfectly clear water we lose the pool and have to dump chlorine in like mad. I had the pool store test the water this time and I am at a loss as to how they have a green check mark next to the CYA level of 150 and ok up to 250. My testing shows off the scale 150 to 200 I’m guessing.
We had an outbreak of mustard and some black algae on the liner. Pouring stabilized chlorine recommended by the pool store by morning it was back to zero FC.
I now understand I need to drain the pool to remove the CYA and get to down to 30. The acrylic roof has uv blocking so I think I could go lower. For 30 years I used stabilized chlorine draining for the winter to just below the skimmers adding new well water in the spring. We now use softened water from the main house as our well known s over 8 ph high calcium.
Question, what levels of CYA does your pool store say is just fine, obviously 150 is wayyyyyy out of bounds to say it’s ok.
 
Question, what levels of CYA does your pool store say is just fine, obviously 150 is wayyyyyy out of bounds to say it’s ok.
You can check out what your CYA should be at following the TFP method here: What Are My Ideal Pool Levels? - Trouble Free Pool

I'd also recommend reading the ABCs: ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry - Trouble Free Pool

Most pool stores are stuck in the dark ages and don't accept the FC/CYA relationship, which is why they say 150 CYA is fine.
 
Howdy '9
Just curious how are you testing your water? you should be using one of these:
Test Kits Compared
I'm partial to the TF100 or the TF100 pro cause it comes with a stirrer already. An inside pool can use a lower CYA because the UV is already blocked, but it also helps buffer the Cl and makes it not so harsh. So I would shoot for the bottom of the CYA range and see how it works for you.

I wouldn't go by ANY pools stores CYA recommendation. they are clueless and are using pool chems standards that are out dated. You need to follow the pool chem levels that @Cwiggs posted and this chart for the amount of CL: FC/CYA Levels
 
In public pools CYA that high can get you shut down. CYA can sicken you if you ingest pool water with it too high. I was worried about this when my CYA was so high and having young kids over to swim.

But yes, unless your want a huge chlorine load the best thing to do is drain and fill. I avoided that because I'm in an area with high sulfer in ground water so we are on a water tank. I believe my CYA was 140.

Ironic, the pool store sells alot of stabilized chlorine.......and they say high CYA is ok. Makes you go hmmm.
 
Taylor K2006C test kit

I have a parastaltic pump I plan to use with liquid 12.5% chlorine. I understand I will also need to control ph with muriatic Acid. Since I need about 150 gal water a day for evaporation the softened water should not add to the ph or calcium. I guess I should also get a tds meter.

not sure if winterizing kit has high amount of CYA either , better look at that and may be have to drain more out in the spring if CYA is high.

what was odd though, I gave a hot tub and we just put in new water and used the 99% triazatone powder chlorine and that CYA was close to 90. Perhaps the CYA is a lot higher in the new bucket we bought as we only shocked a couple of times and could not clear up the water. Drained and filled with new today , 400 gal, added 1 oz chlorine 12.5% liquid to start.