My pressure gauge is broke. What kind should I replace it with I purchase a 200 psi should I have purchased 60 psi??
Need new pressure gauge
- Thread starter Jayrice1
- Start date
I second Wirefoam's recommendation. 0-200 is way too high and you won't be able to tell fluctuations in the range you will be working. When your pressure goes up by about 20% time to backwash, you may not see it with 200 because the needle will barley move.
Wobblerlorri
Bronze Supporter
- Apr 16, 2019
- 2,010
- Pool Size
- 4024
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Liquid Chlorine
My pool is clearing up. my test kit is old need a new one I started SLAM which Probably shouldn’t have done. Cant afford another 70 dollar kit. Any suggestions. thanks
My pool is clearing up. my test kit is old need a new one I started SLAM which Probably shouldn’t have done. Cant afford another 70 dollar kit. Any suggestions. thanks
You can't afford not to have one, without a kit you are shooting in the dark and chances are you will waste more money on unnecessary chems or you could damage pool. You can order refill kit which is cheaper, or individual refills if you have some left.
There’s just enough product for 1 cya test the dot never disappeared
If dot never disappeared it is close to zero. You can therefore use poolmath to see how much CYA to add to get to 30. If you start adding a lot of chlorine now the sun is just going to burn it off wasting your money.
Do you have enough supplies to test FC and PH from your kit? is your kit the TF100? Was the pool running last year?
Do you have enough supplies to test FC and PH from your kit? is your kit the TF100? Was the pool running last year?
I live in Washington state its been raining and it still cold. I think so my test is K2006
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Looks high 7.8 or 8.0, However if your FC is above 10 it will affect the PH reading. so just check that, this is wear I would test TA to help verify this PH reading. I would do that to be sure it coorasponds with this high PH reading, I am use to my PH being low at the beginning of the season. Did you have the pool opened last year?
Ok, I would still do TA test to verify PH test. Have you shocked or slammed the pool in the past few days? do you have enough reagents to test TA? Are the chems all from 3 years ago? I do not live in your area but a high PH around here is unusual. I hate wasting money on Chems. I sure do not want to put acid in only to find out it did not need it. I did that my first year, not fun spent over $1000 trying to get it right from a pool store. Now I spend less than $200 a season on Chems.
Yes kit is 3 years old. I have enough regrant to do TA. Last time I added chlorine was on the 22.
Wobblerlorri
Bronze Supporter
- Apr 16, 2019
- 2,010
- Pool Size
- 4024
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Liquid Chlorine
You can buy reagents piecemeal from Amazon. Plus, since you already have the box, you can get a refill kit from TFTestkits for a lot less than buying a whole new kit.
Go ahead and do the TA test. do you have enough reagents to test your FC & CC? If so do that but I am thinking if last time you added chlorine was 22nd and no CYA your FC is closer to 0 than over 10 and I would then address the PH 1st. If you use pool math you can see how much Muriatic acid you need to add. I would use 8.0 as my present reading and dose for a target of 7.8. I do this so I do not overshoot. You could be higher than 8,0 so you may need to do it a few times. Of course pump should be running when you dose and left on for at least an hour after. Then you can test again. But before I add I would do a TA test to be sure it correlates with the high PH.
Cya is now 40. Water cloudy I have a pressure gauge. TA is 80 FC is 10
Last edited:
Cya is now 40. Water cloudy I have a pressure gauge. TA is 80 FC is 10
Cya is now 40. Water cloudy I have a pressure gauge. TA is 80 FC is 10
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