My pool guy just cleaned my cartridge filters and it hasn't even been 2 weeks and my flow is down to nothing with PSI 10+ higher. This is a recurring problem, I always have to clean the filters myself once or twice a month in between the 3 month cleanings the pool guy does (3 months is average for the area he says). Tried swapping in completely new filters, same problem. Pool looks fine, no visible debris or algae, no one has even been in it in 6 months, numbers are all perfect. Any ideas? Only thing I can think of is I had a 4x2' patch of pebble tech plastered on part of the spa to fix a leak in a rock feature last year, is it possible for new pebble tech to shed? I can't visibly see anything.
Filters need cleaning again after only 1-2 weeks?
- Thread starter fwb
- Start date
borjis
LifeTime Supporter
Your in Vegas, just guessing but it's kinda dusty there, no?
Or is this a new issue?
Does your pressure gauge return to zero when turned off? Is it very old?
Or is this a new issue?
Does your pressure gauge return to zero when turned off? Is it very old?
Since you're not new here, you know that we will want the full set of chemistry readings and the type of test kit that you're using.
You will probably also be aware that you should do an OCLT.
You will probably also be aware that you should do an OCLT.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,890
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Before we start running away with things, I would first still recommend a full set of test results from your K-2006. That's always the best place to start. Even though you don't see anything, there could be a heavy organic load in the water. So along with those results, make sure to tell us your current water temp as well. In addition, your signature says cartridge, but not what kind or size, so I would update that as well. I have a single cart and have to rinse mine off about every 3-4 weeks. Others with a 4-cart filter maybe 1-2 times per year. So all of that info will help.
Are you running the pump on a set rpm or gpm?
What rpm or gpm are you running?
www.troublefreepool.com
Are you still getting the gel stuff in the filters?
What rpm or gpm are you running?
What is this soft silica looking stuff in my filter?
My past few filter cleanings had a significant amount of this stuff that looks like diaper silica, soft and rubbery to the touch. Any ideas about where it's coming from? Hadn't seen it in past years and if I could prevent it my filter would be much happier.
www.troublefreepool.com
Are you still getting the gel stuff in the filters?
Sometimes it gets dusty, but not really much in the past month or two. This is a relatively new issue (started sometime in the past few months). Pressure gauge works fine. Low flow and high PSI is immediately fixed when I wash out the filters.
FC=2.0 TC=2.0 PH=8.0 CYA=60 TA=100 CH=350 Salt=3800ppm (manufacturer target is 3500)
Water temp = 60F
OCLT had zero loss.
FC could be higher I suppose but it's still a bit cold for the SWG. Typically sits at 4.0 during warmer weather.
4-cart filter (Pleatco PCC105)
Are you running the pump on a set rpm or gpm?
What rpm or gpm are you running?
What is this soft silica looking stuff in my filter?
My past few filter cleanings had a significant amount of this stuff that looks like diaper silica, soft and rubbery to the touch. Any ideas about where it's coming from? Hadn't seen it in past years and if I could prevent it my filter would be much happier.
Are you still getting the gel stuff in the filters?
I have it set to 40GPM and it adjusts RPM as PSI rises. But 10 days after cleaning it was maxed out at 3450 RPM and pulling 32 GPM. When the filters are clean, max speed produces 72 GPM. When they're not, max speed produces 32 GPM or lower. Not seeing the gel stuff.
Just popped it open to clean again, take a look, appears to be some type of sediment but I can't figure it out.
Before cleaning:
Bottom of tank
Kind of a sandy consistency
Half way cleaned
Right after cleaning, over a 20 PSI drop
Last edited:
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,890
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Your carts don't look all that bad really, at least not in the pics. Mine get that grey look as well until I rinse them off. In fact they are stained grey now. 
The sand sediment could be expected as as valley resident I suppose. I don't think last year's plaster work has any bearing on this. I would still like to see water test results though (TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C). We need to rule-out a heavy organic presence in the water which many times first shows itself by quick pressure rise in the filter.
The sand sediment could be expected as as valley resident I suppose. I don't think last year's plaster work has any bearing on this. I would still like to see water test results though (TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C). We need to rule-out a heavy organic presence in the water which many times first shows itself by quick pressure rise in the filter.
Pat, it's posted above the photosYour carts don't look all that bad really, at least not in the pics. Mine get that grey look as well until I rinse them off. In fact they are stained grey now.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,890
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Oops!
Thanks Tim. So yeah, not that bad then and with a good OCLT that changes things a bit. Going back through the images, pic #5 has quite a bit of sand in there. More than what you would expect from just typical windy Vegas days. Have you had any local run-off form rains or anything that would help to indicate where all that sand came from? When in 2019 did you have that spa work done?
- Nov 30, 2019
- 857
- Pool Size
- 8500
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
As a totally inexperienced observer, I would suspect an underground pipe break or leak.
Something is getting in the filters.
Maybe organic if the fc is not being maintained or scale if the CSI is getting too high.
I would not use gpm. I would use rpm and set it as low as possible while maintaining good skimming action.
I would set an upper limit of about 2450 rpm as you should never need more than that.
Maybe organic if the fc is not being maintained or scale if the CSI is getting too high.
I would not use gpm. I would use rpm and set it as low as possible while maintaining good skimming action.
I would set an upper limit of about 2450 rpm as you should never need more than that.
Mine did that before I had my pool redone and once they started they found a crack in the old plaster. Hope that's not your issue but just wanted to mention it.
If this were the case, wouldn't there be a very noticeable water loss too?
It definitely looks like a lot of sand is in there. Has any of your local nbors had any of these issues too? If not, then it's not an atmospheric issue.
What is the soil like around your house?
I think it had wet sand so wasn't leaking a lot. It can't hurt to look closely and make sure.
I have also had weird algae that looks like sand but it usually dissolves and washes off the filters
The whole point of variable flow pump is to set GPM. If I set 2450 RPM, as soon as the filter PSI rises my flow drops. If I set a target GPM, the RPM will start low and slowly rise as required as the filter gets dirty. More energy efficient.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,609
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
A pump that controls flow is very inefficient. You are much better off to use the minimum rpm needed to achieve your needs (skim, SWCG) and clean your filter when needed. And maintain your FC to keep the pool clear of algae.
If the filter is sized correctly and the water is being kept clean and chemically balanced, the pressure should not rise enough to make any significant difference especially with a large cartridge filter.
If you're getting a significant pressure rise, there's a problem.
In my opinion, running rpm is the better option.
If you do want to run gpm, I would at least turn the maximum pressure setting down to about 15 psi, the max rpm to about 2,400 and the gpm down to 25 gpm.
I don't think we're on the same page with the flow function of a VSP. It has two target modes, set RPM or GPM. This is more efficient than constant RPM pumps. If I set RPM mode at 2400 RPM, it produces around 45 GPM, then after a few months (or shorter per this thread) it's only pushing around 28 GPM when the filter gets dirty and my needs aren't met at all (SWG cuts out, skimmers stop pulling, and water looks awful). If I set GPM target mode and set 40 GPM (which works well for my skimmers, SWG, and crystal clear water), the pump will start at ~2200 RPM and slowly ramp up to higher RPMs as needed to keep that 40 GPM. Then my skimmers and SWG stay running effectively even as my filter PSI rises, and it starts off using less energy for the first couple months. Saved me about $200 last year and water looked better because flow production never drops even if I'm out of state and unable to immediately address a dirty filter.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,609
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Properly managed water chemistry should allow you to run at much lower rpm unless your filter is very undersized. I run my VS pump at 1600 rpm as I have a heater it pushes through. Those without a heater can normally run at 1200 rpm. Those rpm are sufficient to close the SWCG flow switch.