Freezing Weather - Broken connection

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ChristiK said:
I switched the main pump to just “spa” since the spa is still full until the pool finishes filling. When doing this I noticed the Jandy valve has a leak out of the bottom. This is keeping the main pump from fully priming. How urgent is this? Like “DO IT NOW” or ”get it done this week?”
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Can you give us a pic of where the leak is on the Jandy valve? This is on the suction side valve?

Will the leak prevent your pump form getting water when turned on by freeze protect?

It is probably an O ring leaking. You need an O ring Kit and some Pool Lube. Check that you get the cover O ring size for the size valve you have.
 
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ChristiK said:
I switched the main pump to just “spa” since the spa is still full until the pool finishes filling. When doing this I noticed the Jandy valve has a leak out of the bottom. This is keeping the main pump from fully priming. How urgent is this? Like “DO IT NOW” or ”get it done this week?”
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I'm not sure I fully understand... If you set the Intake valve to Spa, that means you are sucking water out of the drain in the spa.. Where did you set the Return valve?

Which valve is leaking?? The automated Intake valve (in front of the pump) or the automated Return valve. (directs water going back to the pool or spa).

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jim - sorry I should have been more clear. I set it to “spa” on the control panel which actuated both the intake and return valves to “spa”. It’s the intake valve - before the main pump - that is leaking
 
ChristiK said:
I‘m pretty sure I replaced the O rings year before last. How often do they usually need replacing?View attachment 122610
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Did you use Jandy or aftermarket O rings? Did you use Pool Lube on them when installing?

O rings should last more then 2 years if properly installed. I tend to spend more and get original parts since aftermarket parts are sometimes unknown quality.
 
At that point I used whatever the pool store sold me ? I’m learning though. Yes I did use a Pool Lube while installing them. Good to know they should last longer than that. I have enough of a mechanical background that I’m fairly sure I installed them properly but there’s always the chance that I missed something. I’ll give it another go with OEM parts.
 
C,

An Intake valve should not be leaking water.. If it is, then when the pump is on it will leak air and the pump may not prime..

If this were my pool, I would remove the actuator and make sure all the screws are tight.. Keep in mind the screws that hold the actuator are longer so do not use them just for the valve without the actuator.. If the screws are tight I would suspect a crack or maybe a bad o-ring, but you won't know until you get it apart..

It would be best if you can get your pool filled and the main pump running before it gets cold tonight, whether you can get the valve completely fixed or not.

Jim R.
 
Replaced the O-rings on the intake valve. Seems to have fixed that problem.

STILL trying to get water levels up so I can run the main pump off the pool. Just a few inches away from the basket returns - almost there. Currently running it in "service" mode drawing from and returning to the spa which is still full. I'm keeping it in "service" mode so it doesn't try to do anything fancy on me. I think I have the water features successfully blocked out of the system. I've removed the drain plug from that pump. I threw a moving blanket over all over those pipes. Maybe it helps, maybe it doesn't, but it's unlikely to hurt.

I tried to remove the drain plug from the robot cleaner booster pump but it's tied into the main pump system in some way that I can't figure out how to separate so I put that plug back in since water seems to circulate through it at some base level if it's on or off.

I'll be awake until the water level hits those skimmers and I can switch it to "Pool". Thanks again for all your help today!! With any luck I'm set until I can properly fix that water features pump and I'm not feeling rushed on that now that it's separated from the rest of the system. Here's hoping I didn't miss anything!
 

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Final post of the evening just for those that like closure. The pool level is back to the skimmer baskets. In "service" mode with the water features excluded, everything seems to be working properly.

Earlier today there was some curiosity about what the final, smaller, "water features" pipe was. I had hubby watch the pool while I moved valves and we figured out it is the return to the spa that results in the spa overflow into the pool when the whole system is set on "pool".

I learn more about this system every day! Tomorrow I start getting the chems back in balance. ANNNND Good night!LabeledPipes.jpg
 
The water feature pump has its own "main drain" suction supply. See some of the first pics posted - there are 4 main drain covers. 2 for the main pump and 2 for the water feature pump.

As Jim suggested, the return line labeled "water feature" is most probably the spa make up line. The valve there allows for adjustment of the spa overflow when the main pump is running and the system is in pool mode.

Good call by Allen to shut off the water feature pump circuit breaker.

The extra electrical switch may be for a pool or spa light, a convenience outlet or for an equipment area light.

Edit - Good job verifying the "water feature" return is actually the spa make up line. I got called to the phone while you were typing your reply and missed it..... (y)
 
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The membership/support cost was less than what a tech would have cost me yesterday! Very much appreciate the site.

The pool was full of water this morning ? I’ll start a different thread later about the actual fix for the water features since I just kicked that can down the road by excluding it from the system.

I took “baseline” readings on the “fresh” pool chems this AM before I started adding this am. Unfortunately the day was packed busy and I’m not quite balanced yet.
 
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