Pool company guy screwed up...

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PoolGate said:
looking down on the nut from above it is counter-clockwise.
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Got it off and took a close look at the metal plates. They were generally quite clean. Maybe a little bit of calcium buildup on one of the plates but nothing to significant. The plates themselves looked ok as well. I went ahead and hooked it back up and again within a few minutes it was flashing green for Check Cell. Am I out of luck and need to replace it even though it has 40% life left?

Another question, when I took it off water was coming up from the bottom pipe. My equipment is below pool level. Is there anything I can do about this other than be quick with the change?

Thanks.
 

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The sensor is what you want to clean. Not sure where it is in that model but it's seperate from the plates. Do you have any valves that could be shut off? If not that's just a poor design. You could plug the pool end with your winterizing plugs.
 
Stick a potato in the pipe when you are working on the SWG.
 
PoolGate said:
The sensor is what you want to clean. Not sure where it is in that model but it's seperate from the plates. Do you have any valves that could be shut off? If not that's just a poor design. You could plug the pool end with your winterizing plugs.
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Which sensor? The temperature one seems to be reading properly. The salt one is reading properly. Is there another? No valves that can be shut off from the bottom unfortunately. Only valves are upstream of the main pump and right before the pool vs spa which I set to spa. Nothing was flowing down so that was shut off. Just coming up from the bottom due to pool pressure I guess. If I used the winterizing plus, is it just the return lines that I would need to plug? I assume the skimmers aren’t the issue.

The potato idea is a good one! I’ll try that.
 
You may as well attempt to clean it with mild acid and see if it helps. Otherwise the cell needs to be replaced.

How many years old is the cell?
 
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My Jandy has a tri-sensor for flow, temperature and salt level. When anything goes wrong, cleaning that sensor often fixes the issue.
 
mknauss said:
You may as well attempt to clean it with mild acid and see if it helps. Otherwise the cell needs to be replaced.

How many years old is the cell?
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See picture. While it said 60% used up, this is a pretty old date, no? I just bought the house in April.
 

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You should remove it during the winter. The IC has all the electronics built into it. So protecting it from large temperature swings is a good idea. You can get a spool that fits the space from Pentair so you can continue to circulate, if necessary.
 
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mknauss said:
You should remove it during the winter. The IC has all the electronics built into it. So protecting it from large temperature swings is a good idea. You can get a spool that fits the space from Pentair so you can continue to circulate, if necessary.
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Will do
 
Per the Intellichlor manual, is it true that you can’t add chemicals to the water with the SWG switched on?

For a few days I’m just adding chlorine to keep levels up until I get the new IC60. Anything I need to worry about for initial startup of the IC60?
 
Pperc15 said:
Per the Intellichlor manual, is it true that you can’t add chemicals to the water with the SWG switched on?
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Provide the source for that? I never turn off my IC40 with any water adjustments.

Pperc15 said:
For a few days I’m just adding chlorine to keep levels up until I get the new IC60. Anything I need to worry about for initial startup of the IC60?
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If your salt level is good then install the cell and turn it on.
 
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That is because nearly everyone adds chemicals directly to the skimmer. If you follow TFP recommendations, you do not add anything to the skimmer directly.

When adding salt, it is best to have the SWCG off until the salt is fully dissolved and dispersed.
 
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