Intellitouch i9+3 problem after storm

A little more information.

When testing the electric heater port I discovered the relay that is plugged into that port is actually hardwired to the heater and to a breaker. It looks likes its supplied the line voltage to the heater. When I unplug that port the heater power goes out.

When I measure the voltage across the pins here's what I get

24 volts when heater automation is off
26 volts when heater automation is on

But it seems I can't use that port for the replacement relay anyway because it's used to supply power to the heater. I wonder why they wired it though that relay to supply power rather than going right to the breaker?

Jim I can't imaging why either. Makes no sense. I'll have to look at the power station a bit as see if I can infer.

Here's what I was measuring per what Tom said to do. I unplugged the relay from the electric heater port. Set my mutimeter DC 200 Volts. Placed the black probe on one pin from that port and the red probe on the other pin. With heater automation off it measures 24V across the pins. With the heater automation on it measures 26V across the pins. I know that doesn't make sense. Maybe the electronics in the mother board are messed feeding wrong voltages and such.

I just tested it again and the results are different. It now measures 25V with heater automation on and off. This makes no sense.

The new relay will be here sometime today from amazon so I'll let you know.

In the past the heater was powered on at all times (i.e. the control panel was lit up). But it wouldn't fire and heat until turned on by automation in the app. EDIT: I should revise this statement. I'm not sure about this. But I though it was always on. Maybe not.

OK new relay just made it in. I plugged it in. I didn't take voltage reading but I know that port is not functioning correctly because when I turn automation heat on and off I hear no clicking of the relay. I didn't want to strip the wires in case of return. For comparison the actuator valves use an identical relay and when I activate them I can hear an audible click. This information just confirms what I suspected when when I measured the potential difference from the pins with heat automation on and off.

I have already ordered replacement relay driver chips. Will be here tomorrow but probably won't get to install until the wkend due to work. So I'll try that and if not I'll I'll order a new main board and go from there.

As a side note I don't think that replacement relay part would work. The relay is the correct part but the green wires are very small gauge. The master temp install manual states the follwing. "Use18 gauge wire with a minimum 3/64” (1.2mm) thick insulation rated for atemperature rise of at least 105°C" To my eye those wires look smaller than 18gauge. I can't find the writing on the wires that state the guage but it appears small. That seems like a fire risk to me. Also the wire running to the heater is too large to fit in the coupler provided for the install. See attached photos.

ogdento said:

You shouldn't see any voltage across the pins in the ELEC HTR connector unless heat function is on, so I am hoping the new driver will do the trick!!

Click to expand...

Both me and my wallet also hope so Tom...

Just to close the loop I swapped the driver chips and now everything if back functioning normal. Thanks you too for all the help/advice.

Cheers,
Jeff

The original gas connection started working as normal. So I guess it was just a fried driver relay chip.

Thanks again.