First time slammer, checking in

No chlorine loss overnight. It was 11 at 9:30pm and 11 at 7am.

Do I need to do anything about lowering TA at this point or just monitor pH?

I brushed away the spots you see in the pics. (Sorry, just realized the are not very clear pics today). They poof into a tannish/gold cloud.
Still running pump 24/7 and vacuuming with pool rover 2-4 hrs a day.
 

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Lowering TA-Now that your SLAM is over lets see how the PH does for the next week. If you PH does not push up fast (every day or so) then we can leave your TA where it is. IF you PH does push up where you need to add acid more then once a week or so then we will work on lowering your TA.

TA and PH work hand in hand. Each pool is so different. We try to find the sweet spot for YOUR pool and area as they are all so different. You will know you found the right TA for your pool when you ph stays the same most of the time. Now a BIG rain, lots of cannon balls and good fun will push your PH up . That does not count LOL

Kim:kim:
 
The spots in the floor could be a number of things. Could be algae, Could be pollen, could be sand. If you can collect it with a turkey baster that's a great idea, if you touch it underwater before it disbursts, does it feel slimy or gritty? I chased a spot on my floor for 4 years before I figured out what was causing it. I have a cartridge filter, and was using a manual vaccum head. Every time I would vaccum the spots, they would reappear after 20 minutes. It was gritty to touch and poofed once touched. Turns out the vaccum head had a plug loose and was leaching crushed seashell and sand which was used for weight. The debris would make its way past my skimmer sock and my pleatco 10 micron cartridge filter, get lodged in the ribs if my return hose and eyeball, so I added a 5 micron bag to my return jet, vaccumed up the spots and voila, problem solved.
 
Ok any suggestions on improving my water clarity and the spots? Think I'm headed toward another SLAM? I'm testing FC again shortly...

For us it was just finding OUR pool's "sweet-spot" with FC (CYA/40, I run it about FC/7-8, and bump it to SHOCK level after a heavy storm debris OR lots of swimmers) and pump run time. Our water is crystal clear =) and gets lots of compliments! It really is about finding what works for your pool/set-up/location.
 
Wow, so do you bump it to shock level very many times in a year then? Sounds like that's what i may need to do here and it's probably a pretty short shock... 2 days maybe?

I prefer to run on the high side of my CYA FC level because it allows me to be away for a few days and not have to "fret" what condition I will come home too (we don't have anyone local to dump LC in for us when we're away). I definitely "over" sanitize :D but again, it works for us, we did not open to a green pool this spring (following a 1st TFP summer last year) and we've been swimming alot =)
 
Wow, so do you bump it to shock level very many times in a year then? Sounds like that's what i may need to do here and it's probably a pretty short shock... 2 days maybe?

Honestly prob once a month or so (during swim season), it's not a crazy amount of times and then other times I might go several days w/o adding anything, because I've learned our pool's (usual) pattern :D
It's not a "true" SLAM, as I don't need to clear anything, I just bump the FC up once, to prevent an "incident" and for personal piece of mind
 
splashpad - I'm glad you've adapted the TFPC methodology to your pool with great success. Thanks for becoming a supporter! If you were to experiment with your post-rain FC elevations, you'd likely find you don't have to raise it all the way to SLAM/shock FC to maintain your perfect water. It would likely lower your sanitizer cost and reduce your losses to the sun. Up to you. If you're happy, I'm happy for you.

Mdhkdh - since the SLAM Process end criteria involves an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test, the shortest possible SLAM is about 9 hours. You can re-SLAM Process if you want. When you backwashed, did you bw, rinse, bw, rinse?

To clarify - yes, TFPC is a universal system that works for everyone and does encourage everyone to customize their approach by logging their test results and getting to know their pool's reactions to heavy rain, pool parties, and normal conditions for any given time of year.

While you are free to elevate FC all the way up to SLAM/Shock FC as often as you want - this should be viewed as strictly personal choice, and not TFP policy.

In the vast majority of cases, once you graduate Pool School, 100% complete a SLAM Process, balance your water, find your own personal pump run-time and Target FC to avoid anywhere in your pool falling below min FC/clouding/hazing/algae, and follow your own version of the TFP Basic Pool Care Schedule - you will be rewarded with a very trouble free pool that is extremely predicable and probably cheaper than any other method to maintain.

Yes, you'll have to either have the SWG make more (longer or higher) or manually add more bleach after events that consume higher than daily average to ensure you stay in your target range.

Do most pools need to bring FC up to SLAM/shock FC after a heavy rain? No. Will they need a little extra FC? If enough gallons of rainwater (0 FC) entered the pool so that the average FC of the pool water has lowered unacceptably, yes, it will need to be compensated for, but in most cases this will only be 0.5-4 FC, not 5-25 FC. You are of course free to overshoot FC as often as you wish, but please don't think that TFP requires this at all. Daily FAS-DPD testing and topping off of FC so that you're in the target range all day, everyday, will keep, by and large, all TFPC pools clear and happy. If it doesn't produce that results, either your circulation is insufficient and/or the target FC you're maintaining is too low (most often due to CYA testing error).

Remember that average daily FC demand for TFP members is almost always between 0.5-4ppm FC - any pool requiring more than 4ppm FC being added per day during normal weather and minimal bather load most likely has hidden algae, filtration problem, special contaminants like residual bromine, incomplete previous SLAM, or other problem that should be solved when the pool owner has time/capability.
 
Thanks splashpad... good info and I hope to have a clear pool for more than a week one of these days.
Here is what I've come home to today...
FC at 7am was 11
FC at 2pm was 10
FC at 6 pm is 10
CC is 0.5

Chlorinator ran ALL DAY!! This was by accident as wife was supposed to turn off at noon. She did brush it though! I brushed it this morning. And it's cloudier today than yesterday. How does this happen when chlorine hasn't dropped at all????

I guess we'll be canceling our family coming over this weekend while I slam again. :(
Or is there any other way to get it clearer??
Calling Yakima and Kimkats to the rescue before my wife gives up on me and calls the pool guy!!!

- - - Updated - - -

Yakima... just saw your reply and thank you for jumping back over to me.
WRT the backwash, yes I did rinse but I only did each one as the waterin the view tube was clear after the first. I can certainly do it again tonight butI'll wait for guidance first since mypool is cloudy right now.
 

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Just keep the FC level up, it's likely dead/dying algae, so make sure the filter is running constantly to pull it out :)

- - - Updated - - -

Once you see the "sparkle" then you'll know :) IMG_20180531_120425492.jpg
 
Do not cancel the swim!

Can you see the bottom everywhere & monitor underwater swimmers safely? PH 7.2-7.8? FC above Min below SLAM FC? All blue, no green? If yes to all, you're safe to swim.

Chlorinator ran ALL DAY!!
and your FC fell? What was the setting at? You are talking about the SWG right?

What do you think, Kim?

I vote you:
Let FC fall under 10.
Post full test results especially PH. If 7.8 or higher, adjust to 7.2. If 7.2-7.6 leave it and
(if you add acid, wait 20 mins before bleach add)
Elevate FC to SLAM FC and maintain through the night before your guests arrive

Consider DE or CF: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/133-add-de-to-a-sand-filter
 
For future (and present) use, I'm wondering about the Recommended Levels. It says minimum 3 and target 5 for vinyl with SWG and CYA 70 for example but that seems so low. I don't think I'll ever keep it below 7 out of fear of going green again!
Complete list of recommendations:
Pool School - Recommended Levels

Hello again. For some reason my water is appearing hazy again after being crystal clear on Friday (less the stubborn brown spots as mentioned previously). It may not look too bad in these pics but trust me it is not clear like it was or should be. But WHY??? FC has not dropped below 7.5 since coming off the SLAM. Today's results:
FC 8
CC 0.5
CYA 70
pH 7.5
TA 140 (this was high prior to having to do SLAM and is high again after SLAM ... no idea why or how big a deal that test result is)

I have been running SWG for 5 hours on high and even ran it on super chlorinate mode for a couple extra hours this afternoon when I noticed the haziness.
I've included a pic of the hairnet I removed from skimmer because it did appear to collect some greenish residue.
I really don't want to lose my pool again...we just got back to swimming... and I sure hope I don't have to reSLAM it!! I'm real frustrated right about now as you might imagine. :drown::cry::?:
My personal vote is some last remaining algae spores (covers, making sure to rinse & flush water up around all the edges, etc) =)

Just remember (if you can see the bottom) that as long as the FC level is BELOW the SHOCK level (& above the minimum) for your CYA level, it's safe to swim =)
 
Yak! I forgot all about the DE for his filter! DOH! YES to the DE to help the sand filter. Good catch/fix!

I agree with what Yak said about letting the FC fall so you can do a full test and the keeping the FC at SLAM level the night before the party! Then have fun that day!!

Kim:kim:
 
Ok so I did a floc and the good news is the water is clear. The bad news is when I go to vacuum the floor it is basically a layer of yellow dust that poofs away into the water and does not get sucked up. I know there is suction bc it picked up 2 leaves. There are some darker spots on the pool floor where it is thicker, but this fine layer of dust covers the entire floor. Hopefully you can see the difference in the pics where I "vacuumed" and didn't. Soooo.... I need this layer of whatever to go away. Do I reslam or try the DE in the filter to see if it will gather it and keep it? I will certainly have to brush the floor to get it back circulating and to the filter, right?
Any TFP experts in Polk county florida want to get hired because I've been at this and can't seem to beat it!!
 

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Do a vacuum to waste. Have the water as high as it can go AND keep the hose in adding water while you vacuum to waste. That way you don't have to worry about the filter at all.

Once you do this I would add the DE to the sand. Remember to be there to babysit the filter until you learn how much DE your filter likes. You don't want the pressure to shoot up too high. Start with 1/4 cup and go from there. Be ready to backwash if it does shoot up too fast.

That does look better though!

Kim:kim:
 
So I should vacuum the entire floor even though none of that "dust" is being sucked into the bag? It's only putting it into the water which then becomes cloudy (though floor becomes clear). I'm thinking it will settle right back to the floor again.
 
Ok so I searched what vacuum to waste is and guess I need to invest in a much bigger vacuum? I only bought a cheap $25 setup at Lowes bc I already have a robot vacuum and didn’t really want to have to spend big $ on another type of vacuum. Is this what I need to do? Otherwise the water will drain really fast compared to how fast I can vacuum with a 5 inch head...
 
Ok so I searched what vacuum to waste is and guess I need to invest in a much bigger vacuum? I only bought a cheap $25 setup at Lowes bc I already have a robot vacuum and didn’t really want to have to spend big $ on another type of vacuum. Is this what I need to do? Otherwise the water will drain really fast compared to how fast I can vacuum with a 5 inch head...

If it's the sets I think, you just need a vacuum hose (and vacuum plate adapter if you have a skimmer that supports one)
 

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