New Pool Build - North Dallas

NTXpoolboy

Member
Dec 15, 2024
22
Allen, TX
Pool specs:
Pool Perimeter 104'
Length 31' Width 21' Pool Sq.Ft, 743
Depth 3'6"- 5'- 4"
Pool Gallons 14,634

Spa specs:
Spa Perimeter 30' Length 7'6" Width 7'6" Spa Sq.Ft, 56
Depth 3'6"
Spa Gallons 683

Equipment
Pentair Intellicenter P/S i5 - W/Salt IC40
Pentair IntelliFlo3 VSF
Polaris Robotic Cleaner Freedom Cordless Robotic Cleaner
Pentair 520 C/C Filter
Pentair Transformer - 300w Pentair
Pentair MicroBrite Light W/Clear Water Stop – 3 lights
Pentair Skimmer – 2 each
Pentair Master Temp 400 Heater - NG

Pool Plumbing
Includes: 5 - 2" returns, 2 - 2" dedicated skimmers, and 2.5" main drain.

Spa Plumbing
Includes: 3" main drain, 2.5" return line, 2" air-line, 1.5" fountain, 6 - 1.5" spa jets.

There will be 2 sheer descents on the raised wall.
I’m considering doing a 4-5-4 depth rather than 3.5-5-4.
We decided to not do the tanning ledge and plan to carry the steps all the way to the spa.
We are also planning to install a deck mounted basketball hoop on the end opposite of the stairs.
Looking for any suggestions or feedback.
 

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Depth 3'6"- 5'- 4"
I’m considering doing a 4-5-4 depth rather than 3.5-5-4.
3.5' is a little too shallow. I'd recommend 4' for your shallow ends. I have a 4-5-4 profile, and it works great.

Pentair Intellicenter P/S i5 - W/Salt IC40
Pentair IntelliFlo3 VSF
Polaris Robotic Cleaner Freedom Cordless Robotic Cleaner
Pentair 520 C/C Filter
Pentair Transformer - 300w Pentair
Pentair MicroBrite Light W/Clear Water Stop – 3 lights
Pentair Skimmer – 2 each
Pentair Master Temp 400 Heater - NG
This is excellent equipment. Install a surge protector in your IntelliCenter load center. Make sure your heater has a bypass. Ensure no ball valves are used, only high quality diverters (Jandy Never Lube or Pentair).

Pentair MicroBrite Light W/Clear Water Stop – 3 lights
3 lights may not be enough. They should all point away from the house or main seating area. Make sure the shelf has a light. What is "Clear Water Stop"?

2" dedicated skimmers, and 2.5" main drain
I would upsize your skimmer lines to 2.5". Pool main drain is optional.

Looking for any suggestions or feedback.
I would consider repositioning the ledge and spa to create a swim lane on the long axis of the pool.

Two useful articles in case you haven't read them already:


 
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NTX,

When I built my pool, I just had to have a waterfall wall similar to yours... It took about 5 minutes for the fun to wear off and we haven't used in the last 10 years.. Way too noisy, and since it dumps right into the pool, not really usable when floating.. If I had known this before I build the pool, I'd have used the money for something else..

That said, I doubt you will change your mind, so in Jan of 2026, how about some feedback as to how you feel then.. :mrgreen:

I love the fact that you will have a large VS pump, a large cartridge filter, and a Saltwater pool.. In my mind, those are the three things that make any pool build a success, and easy to maintain. :goodjob:

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
3.5' is a little too shallow. I'd recommend 4' for your shallow ends. I have a 4-5-4 profile, and it works great.


This is excellent equipment. Install a surge protector in your IntelliCenter load center. Make sure your heater has a bypass. Ensure no ball valves are used, only high quality diverters (Jandy Never Lube or Pentair).


3 lights may not be enough. They should all point away from the house or main seating area. Make sure the shelf has a light. What is "Clear Water Stop"?


I would upsize your skimmer lines to 2.5". Pool main drain is optional.


I would consider repositioning the ledge and spa to create a swim lane on the long axis of the pool.

Two useful articles in case you haven't read them already:


Thanks for the feedback. I think the swim lane is a great idea. We are trying to rework that entrance into something more functional.

I don't know what the "Clear Water Stop" is, I'll have to check on that. I assumed something to waterproof it.
 
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NTX,

When I built my pool, I just had to have a waterfall wall similar to yours... It took about 5 minutes for the fun to wear off and we haven't used in the last 10 years.. Way too noisy, and since it dumps right into the pool, not really usable when floating.. If I had known this before I build the pool, I'd have used the money for something else..

That said, I doubt you will change your mind, so in Jan of 2026, how about some feedback as to how you feel then.. :mrgreen:

I love the fact that you will have a large VS pump, a large cartridge filter, and a Saltwater pool.. In my mind, those are the three things that make any pool build a success, and easy to maintain. :goodjob:

Thanks,

Jim R.
I tried to nix the waterfall early on, but got overruled. I've been told it will get used :) - I'll let you know if that's the case in Jan 2026.
 
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What's the consensus on the location of the equipment pad - is it better in the current location away from the house and near the fence? Or would it be ok next to the house? I'm concerned about noise if it's near the house as it would be near a bedroom. However, next to the house does tuck it away a bit better for use of the side yard. How concerned should I be about equipment noise next to the house?
 
NTX,

I have a 3 HP IntelliFlo that is about five feet from my head when I am in bed. It is impossible to hear the pump, even when I try..

It runs 24/7/365, mostly at 1200 rpm. You have to almost touch it, just to make sure it is still running..

It is just one of the advantages of having a large VS pump. They still move a lot of water at low rpms.

My pool equipment is right next to my house. This allowed me to build a shed to protect the equipment.




Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Thanks, Jim. I like the idea of putting a shed around it.

Should I set it up with acid automation from the start? It will be SWG so I'm anticipating the need to regularly add acid. I'm considering a simple Stenner pump style feed but not totally sure how to set it up. Can I just put it on a smart outlet, and have it turn on ~1 hour during the night while the pool pump is running to feed it in? (or however long is necessary to get the amount of acid I need).
 
NTX,

I add acid once a week, or once every two weeks..

I do not find this enough bother to add an acid feeder.. I have an identical pool (system wise) in Farmers Branch and I only have to add acid about once a month.

I never recommend adding an acid feeder until you actually find that you need one.

That said, your idea would work fine.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Should I set it up with acid automation from the start?
I would definitely suggest waiting, and perhaps going without acid automation. In my opinion, it's a solution in search of a problem. In the summer, I add MA twice a week. Takes under three minutes start to finish. Acid automation adds complexity, maintenance requirements, and a potential point of failure. What's the TA of your fill water?
 
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I'm in the process of a new build that includes the IntelliChlor IC40. Should I insist on having the PB install the 2025 version of the IntelliChlor with the latest updates? PB seems to think going with the latest tech from Pentair isn't such a great idea - as they need time to work out the kinks. I'm leaning toward getting the 2025 model. Interested to see what others would recommend.
 
We have not seen the new cells in action to comment.

None of the new features Pentair has announced would benefit you other than an improved salinity sensor based on the equipment listed here.


 
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I'm leaning toward getting the 2025 model.
I'm all over the map ranging from 'i don't like being a beta tester' to 'you're paying through the nose to have a warranty, why not use it if need be'.

Any beta problems become the builders problem, and if it's a disaster, he'll probably give up on the new one pretty quick and install an old one.

But I'd still not like to be inconvenienced by beta problems. It could take a week or two to straighten out each time.
 
Looking for some opinions on tread depth.

We will have a 4' shallow end and the PB has 4 steps into the shallow end. The bottom three will have a tread depth of 16" deep and the top is 30" deep.

I'm proposing adding a 5th step which would make the bottom 4 steps 14" deep and the top step would be 22" deep.

This extra step will reduce the riser height which will better accommodate those with physical limitations in the family.

Is a 14” tread depth plenty deep?

We have a 6'6" (78") length entry (takes the steps to the edge up the hot tub) - so that's the number I'm trying to fit the steps into
 

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