Best Sealant for Pump Inlet?

Jun 20, 2018
97
Gainesville, FL
Pool Size
28000
My pump is a Hayward Super Pump. It has a female inlet fitting, and the return from the pool screws into it.

It was sucking air at the threads. I had used pipe dope on them, but I still got a lot of air. I cleaned everything off and used Teflon tape. Still sucked air.

I went back and tightened it as much as I dared. It was stupid to put a female inlet in this pump. They rupture if you tighten them too much. The air problem is almost completely gone, but I think some air still gets in.

What is the best way to seal this inlet?
 
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Are you really an expert? The pump has a threaded union screwed into it. This is what leaks. You can't put a union on this pump without screwing it in. The O-ring on the union can't save the situation.

I decided to try the tape-and-goo method. I taped the male part up and then spread the goo on it like peanut butter. I can tell it's better because the pump filled with water just about instantly when I turned it back on. I am going to go out and shut it off to see if anything comes out. That's when the pressure reverses and water comes out of leaky suction joints.
 
Are you really an expert? The pump has a threaded union screwed into it. This is what leaks. You can't put a union on this pump without screwing it in. The O-ring on the union can't save the situation.
Mark,

Who was your above post for... ??

Pump unions need no tape or sealant.. I have three IntelliFlo pumps, with pump unions, that have been running for well over 10 years and none of them leak a drop...

You can't buy these at home depot, and they have an O-Ring on the threaded side that seals the deal...

Either you have a clue or you don't... :mrgreen:

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Mark,

Just to be clear.. Pump unions have two O-rings..

One that is between the two unions halves and the other is on the threaded side of the union that screws into the pump. That O-Ring is the one that seals the threaded end from leaking.. You can see the extra O-Ring in the following pic..


All my pumps have these pump unions..

I use them because after several years all the pump that I have ever seen with normal screw-in adapters, leak and are coated with goop as a fix.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Are you really an expert? The pump has a threaded union screwed into it. This is what leaks. You can't put a union on this pump without screwing it in. The O-ring on the union can't save the situation.

I decided to try the tape-and-goo method. I taped the male part up and then spread the goo on it like peanut butter. I can tell it's better because the pump filled with water just about instantly when I turned it back on. I am going to go out and shut it off to see if anything comes out. That's when the pressure reverses and water comes out of leaky suction joints.
Can you post a photo of the fittings you're using on the pump inlet so we're all on tha same page?
 

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Thank you for suggesting that. I see we are talking about two different things. The unions I bought did not come with O-rings. They were plain old pump unions from Home Depot. If I had known unions with O-rings existed, I would have picked some up.

I don't know whether it's possible to stick O-rings on the one I have. I don't see a flange an O-ring could rest on. Looks like I would have been better off with the product in your picture. In any case, I did use a pump union on this joint. The union from the other end is gone because I cut it out to install my filter. The entire pump unscrews from the filter now, so I don't really have to have a union on that end.

Replacing the union by the pump would mean replacing at least one three-way valve as well, so I am not inclined to do it if I can plug up the threads well enough to keep air out. I don't know if the male end of my union could be replaced with a male end from a union with an O-ring. Seems to me it is not worth trying, given the problems that could arise and the fact that it is possible to work with the joint I have now.

Because of the aggravation factor involved in fooling with the union and valve, I would rather go so far as to glue the existing joint shut permanently if necessary. Installing a new pump strainer housing would probably involve less suffering than redoing the plumbing.

I think the joint is sealed now. I'll be testing it later.
 
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Are you really an expert? The pump has a threaded union screwed into it. This is what leaks. You can't put a union on this pump without screwing it in. The O-ring on the union can't save the situation.

I decided to try the tape-and-goo method. I taped the male part up and then spread the goo on it like peanut butter. I can tell it's better because the pump filled with water just about instantly when I turned it back on. I am going to go out and shut it off to see if anything comes out. That's when the pressure reverses and water comes out of leaky suction joints.
High-temp pump unions thread into the ports on a pump, but they are NOT male pipe thread units. Pipe threads are tapered, getting larger as they go in farther. The pump port is tapered as well, so yes, overtightening can actually split the pump.

The threads on a true high-temp pump union are straight, they will tighten, but don't expand as they go in, but it is the O ring that seals.
If there is a union threaded into that pump that doesn't have an O ring, it is likely one with a male pipe-thread on one side and threaded completely into the pump. Overtighten them and the male portion will be deformed if it doesn't split the port. You only make that mistake once.

You can use Teflon tape on a high-temp union as well, I always do, three wraps, as I hate call-backs for tiny drips. I also use a small coat of silicone sealant over the Teflon. I don't have leaks.

Hayward recommends against using pipe dopes of any kind on their pumps. From the manual:

Use Teflon tape to seal threaded connections on molded plastic components. All plastic fittings must be new or thoroughly cleaned before use. NOTE - Do NOT use Plumber’s Pipe Dope as it may cause cracking of the plastic components. When applying Teflon tape to plastic threads, wrap the entire threaded portion of the male fitting with one to two layers oftape. Wind the tape clockwise as you face the open end of the fitting, beginning at the end of the fitting. The pump suction and outlet ports have molded-in thread stops. Do NOT attempt to force hose connector fitting past this stop. It is only necessary to tighten fittings enough to prevent leakage. Tighten fitting by hand and then use a tool to engage fitting an additional 1 ½ turns. Use care when using Teflon tape as friction is reduced considerably; do NOT over-tighten fitting or you may cause damage. If leaks occur, remove connector, clean off old Teflon tape, re-wrap with one to two additional layers of Teflon tape, and re-install connector.
 
This is the second pump I've installed, if memory serves. Could be the third.

The reason that's interesting is that until I put unions on the current pump, I had never seen them used. Everyone--professionals--who installed pumps I later replaced has used plain old Home Depot slip fittings with male threads. I just guessed that it was stupid not to use unions. No one told me. I didn't want to have to cut pipes over and over.

I did the same thing with the electric wires on a pool pump as well as a sprinkler pump. I put locking plugs and receptacles in the power connections so wiring up new pumps would be easier. They were not exposed to the weather, so I wasn't worried about water getting into the connections I made.

If I had known the pump unions from hardware stores were no good, and the manual had said anything about the right kind, I would have used the ones with O-rings.

The current pump was installed to replace a pump with a cracked female fitting, so I guess the last guy didn't get the news about unions with O-rings, even though he made his living working on pools.

The Hayward manual is quite a bit better than the Pentair manual, which basically says, "Install pump. Turn on."
 
Everyone--professionals--who installed pumps I later replaced has used plain old Home Depot slip fittings with male threads.
Sadly some folks who get paid to do things aren’t professionals. I’ve seen the owner of a “professional” company state things such as “I’d only install a check valve on the outlet side of a heater if a SWG is installed.” Meanwhile the 6 month old heater the customer called me about the professional installed needed a new heat exchanger because the trichlor feeder was allowing water to back up into the heater when the system was off and destroyed the heat exchanger.

The word professional refers to those engaged in a learned profession. It refers to the manner in which one conducts oneself in the pursuit of a profession. Professionalism refers to the pride one takes in one’s work. It’s unfortunate as consumers we have to vet everyone, including those who are or should be considered “professionals”.
 
I have generally had very good luck here with tradesmen.

I have done well here with garage door people, plumbers, arborists, AC people, electricians...a long list. But pool people here seem useless. I called the only two companies that supposedly trace pool leaks, and neither one has ever called me back.
 
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