Suggestions for Replacing Pentair iChlor 30

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H

Homebrewale

Silver Supporter
Apr 21, 2020
1,554
Holly Springs, NC
Pool Size
22000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair iChlor 30
I'm posting my issue for confirmation. I'm pretty sure what the problem is. I was testing the FC in the pool water this evening. It was low even though I had recently increased the output. I looked at the cell. The red cell light was on. On the display, it read COLD. In diagnosis mode, the cell is reading the water temperature as 45F. The real temperature is 87F. This indicates to me that the thermistor on the flow switch has failed. I'll need to replace the flow switch.

Is that right?
 
Coincidence or possible cause? We had a bad thunderstorm the night before. The lights on the house blinked several times. I'm going with it's just a coincidence the flow switch breaks during the same period as bad thunderstorms.
 
I replaced the flow switch today. It's a simple process of cutting the wire on the old one, screwing in the new switch and connecting the right wires to each other. I did all that and started the equipment. I still have the same red Cell light on and green COLD on the display. It did not fix the problem. I was going to just start looking at my options next week until I recalled in earlier threads that if the temperature wire is cut, it will default to 72F.

I disconnect the white wire which is for the temperature readings. The cell did not start working. Same red Cell and green Cold. I retested the FC in the pool. I got another bottle of bleach to add. About 30 minutes have passed. I got to up the RPM on the pump for better bleach mixing when I notice the green generating light on and the display showing my 40% setting. The cell light is blinking red. For now, the cell is back to producing chlorine. I'm not sure how long I want to run with the temperature sensor disconnected but it buys me more time to consider my options.
 
I wrote earlier about my issues with the Pentair iChlor 30 on my pool. Pentair iChlor 30 temperature error

The cell is back to having a red Cell light on and green Cold on the display. I could try replacing the flow switch again but at $100 per switch, I'm thinking of just replacing the cell. The simple way would be to just order a replacement cell and swap it out. I'm also willing to look at other SWGs. Currently, I do not have automation and unsure if I will ever have it. I'm also looking to replace the pump which is the subject of another post. What SWGs would you suggest I consider? I would be looking for one that has a 40k gallon capacity. On a previous pool, I had a Hayward Aquarite so I'm familiar with it.
 
Replace the iChlor with an Intellichlor IC40 or IC60 cell It uses the same Power Center. The IntelliChlor cell is longer and will require some PVC adjustment.
 
I'm okay with you combining my posts but I would have preferred the newer thread title since I've made the decision to replace the cell and was looking for opinions on different SWG. The current title will not get readers who don't have an iChlor to read the thread. They may just skip past it.
 
ajw22 said:
Replace the iChlor with an Intellichlor IC40 or IC60 cell It uses the same Power Center. The IntelliChlor cell is longer and will require some PVC adjustment.
Click to expand...

Without automation, isn't the IC40 a bit limiting? It looks like the output can only be set at 0, 20, 40, 60, 80, 100%.
 
Homebrewale said:
Without automation, isn't the IC40 a bit limiting? It looks like the output can only be set at 0, 20, 40, 60, 80, 100%.
Click to expand...

You have to be willing to adjust your pump runtime some to get FC output between the settings.
 
Homebrewale said:
I'm okay with you combining my posts but I would have preferred the newer thread title since I've made the decision to replace the cell and was looking for opinions on different SWG. The current title will not get readers who don't have an iChlor to read the thread. They may just skip past it.
Click to expand...
Edit the title. See the three dots upper right at top of thread - click on them and then Edit Thread.
 

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I have another thread on replacing my current VSP that is operating just fine. I just want a larger pump. I was looking at a Hayward Tristar 2.7hp that would cost $2000 for the pump plus installation costs. My pool supply company is recommending a Hayward Aquarite S3, 25k which is $2300 installed plus electrician costs. They don't do electrical work. It would be $300 for the 40k which is what I would want. They recommend this because a future Hayward pump could be controlled by S3. Also (eyeroll) because they are a Hayward dealer and the S3 replacement cells are not available online.

I think my plans now are to get an iChlor 30 replacement cell for less than $800. Then in around 5 years, do the pump and SWG replacement at the same time. Maybe as well use up the remaining life of the current pump instead of committing to around $5k in replacements now.
 
mknauss said:
Better to replace the iChlor with an IC40. Some minor plumbing work will be needed.
Click to expand...

My issue with the IC40 is that I don't have automation. The output on the IC40 is limited to 20% output increments. At 40% output, PoolMath calculates FC raised by 3.4 ppm. At 60%, FC raised by 5.2 ppm. My pool is currently using around 4 ppm. So if I don't want either low FC or elevated FC, I would need to keep adjusting the output up and down on the cell every couple of days to keep the FC where I like it. I prefer what I have done in the past - find the right output, set it and forget about it during summer. While the iChlor 30 is undersized, I can still set it on 70% output for FC raised by 4.1 ppm and then test every week or two to confirm FC limits.

Also the iChlor 30 is designed to run at 20 to 105 gpm while the IC40 is designed to run at 25 +/- 5 to 105 gpm. If after installing an IC 40 I find my system ends on the high side at 30 gpm instead of 20 gpm, that could mean I have to run the already undersized pump even faster to keep the SWG operating. Right now I need 2000 rpm just to keep the iChlor 30 running.
 
mknauss said:
Up to you. Just pointing out that the IC40 is a much more robust SWCG.
Click to expand...

I know it's more robust and has a higher production rate of 1.4 lbs vs 1.0 lbs. But then I have to micromanage the FC output more to keep the pool at the right level. I would rather have 1% output increment adjustments instead of 20%.
 
Homebrewale said:
I'm not adjusting pump runtime. It's going to run 24 hours a day.
Click to expand...
So wire the SWG thru a timer and control the SWG runtime instead and let the pump run 24/7.

No need to micromanage the SWG - Based on your CYA, determine the FC target range. Keep FC within that range - maybe even a few points higher. Never let FC get to minimum.
Testing once every two weeks or so isn't often enough. The FAS-DPD and pH tests takes less than 5 minutes. Once or twice a week should suffice - once the SWG is dialed in.
 
So living with 20% increments for 12 years, it's really no big deal. The overwhelming bulk of my season needs near 40% or near 60% and its close enough. At times it needs closer to 50% and I alternate settings for a few days each between 40 and 60. It's only a couple of weeks, maybe even one week on either side of the peak season.
 

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