Trouble Shooting pool heater low voltage issue

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C

cmac549

Member
Jun 15, 2024
8
nova scotia
The contactor switch on my pool heater will not engage. When manually pushed in the condensor starts and operates etc.

I jump the HP switch... no start
Jumped the Lpressue switch, now start..
jumped the flow switch... no start...

all that's left is the Temp prob?

there is not 24Volts getting to the contactor......

can I jump the 2 temp contacts at the board to simulate the temp probe asking for heat?

thanks

chris
 
When you say you do not have 240 volts to the contactor, this leads me to think you may have a faulty breaker.

When you test the voltage, you should have 120v from each feed to ground, and 240v from feed to feed. If you have a faulty breaker, when you test feed to ground, one of the feeds will be 120V, the other will be 0v.

This is just electrical troubleshooting, I am not familiar with pool heater. If you are not comfortable with a multimeter or electricity, you may want to find someone who is or hire an electrician,,,,,
 
How old is the heat pump? If jumping out the LP switch starts the heater it would seem that you are low on refrigerant. Look for any oil spots on or near the refrigerant lines which would indicate a refrigerant leak. Is the heater still under warranty? When you say you jumped out the LP switch... "now start", does that mean the heater started and ran or is that a spelling error meaning no start? What error code are you showing on the display? Do you have 24 volts on the secondary side of the transformer on the circuit board? Photo of your circuit board and wiring might also be helpful.
 
swamprat69 said:
How old is the heat pump? If jumping out the LP switch starts the heater it would seem that you are low on refrigerant. Look for any oil spots on or near the refrigerant lines which would indicate a refrigerant leak. Is the heater still under warranty? When you say you jumped out the LP switch... "now start", does that mean the heater started and ran or is that a spelling error meaning no start? What error code are you showing on the display? Do you have 24 volts on the secondary side of the transformer on the circuit board? Photo of your circuit board and wiring might also be helpful.
Click to expand...
correct... typo, sorry bout that. no start . no error code. I have the low voltage going from the transformer to the board... but no 24volt going from board to contactor.... system works is contactor manually depressed.....
 

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How does your whole system for the pool equipment operate? Do you have automation or not? You are telling me that you have 24V from 15 to 17 at the control board for the heater. Do you also have 12V between 15 and 16 on the control board? Do you have an active display on the heater? The wiring diagram also shows a "Filter Pump" contactor which should be wired in parallel with the other means that you have to turn on the pump. Is the control board "remote" switch jumpered at the control board or wired to "automation"?
 
16000 gallon ON ground pool
Compupool chorine generator that powers on with pump ….

Active display yes and it displays a temp

No filter pump associated with heater
Re remote switch …. I’ll check but it’s ran for 10 years and I’ve not changed on switch or setting ….

With also check for power between 15 and 16 as u ask

Thanks
 
1poolman1 said:
When troubleshooting electrical issues, the primary thing to look at is "Where does the power stop?" Your 24v stops at the board, making that the most likely issue if the heater says it is calling for heat but it is not closing the contactor.
Click to expand...
But could something be preventing it leaving the board …. Flow/Hp/lp switch etc …. Though I did try jumping each jndependantly …. No diff ….
 
Easiest way to check a closed or open switch that operates with 24 volts is to measure voltage across the switch when it is supposed to be operating (closed). If you read 0 volts it is closed and if you read 24V it is open (if you have both 24V out from the transformer secondary and 24V at then control board). You might also want to check the resistance of the contactor coil (with the power OFF) to make sure it is not open. You might also want to check the back side of the operating control board to see if any wiring traces are burnt. Since the compressor is started by a contactor and the fan is started by a relay, if neither is starting you can assume that there is no 24V output from the control board telling them to start. Since you didnt mention it I will assume that there is no automation. How do you turn on your pump? Timer?
 
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Are you even getting 24 volts to your safety switches? Another way to check is to measure voltage from #15 to #10, 9. 8, 7, 6, and 5. If the control board is asking for heat and you have 24V into the control board you should show 24 volts in each measurement.
 
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