Help troubleshooting my Aquapure 1400?

[davidwat]

Help troubleshooting my Aquapure 1400?

For a couple of weeks my Aquapure has failed to generate Chlorine automatically regardless of dialed in % but does generate chlorine well under BOOST.

The failure was first noted and attributed to a severe but focal buildup of scale completely obstructing flow through the electrode plates on my third party Compupool swg cell replacement. An acid wash initially with acetic acid and finally with muriatic acid cleared the obstruction and restored normal function. Shortly afterwards (~week) the auto function failed. I have seen a blinking flow light on the sensor indicator module which cleared with powering the panel on and off with no change in chlorination.

It sounds like a panel electronics board problem to me, but I wonder if damage (by me) to the built in (non replaceable) sensors on this particular sag could explain this problem. I’ve scanned the Jandy “further readings” on TFP and a Jandy workbook, but can’t find the problem mentioned.

Has anyone seen this?

David Watkins - Dallas

Jandy Aqualink PDA 16 yrs old upgraded to Aqualink RS with iAqualink
Jandy Aquapure 1400
GRC/J1400-3 Salt cell

 

[HermanTX]

Are you getting any error codes on the display screen?
Have you tested the salt level in the pool and not just what the Jandy sensor is stating?
maybe @PoolGate @generessler @MSchutzer has seen this type of issue

 

[PoolGate]

How old is the cell? If you have that much scale, you need to address your CSI. It is likely the trisensor is also encased in calcium.

 

[davidwat]

Are you getting any error codes on the display screen?
Have you tested the salt level in the pool and not just what the Jandy sensor is stating?
maybe @PoolGate @generessler @MSchutzer has seen this type of issue

I don't have a display screen module. Just a status page on the iAqualink app with no errors.

 

[davidwat]

How old is the cell? If you have that much scale, you need to address your CSI. It is likely the trisensor is also encased in calcium.

The swg cell is ~ 1 year. It has been fully descaled. My CSI is .02 or so. I do wonder if some damage to the cell sensors could cause the problem.

 

[PoolGate]

The swg cell is ~ 1 year. It has been fully descaled. My CSI is .02 or so. I do wonder if some damage to the cell sensors could cause the problem.

Do you use PoolMath? If so, please share your results (in app option). With that CSI you should not be getting much, if any scaling. I assume you meant .2 but still fine. What is your CH level?

 

[davidwat]

Do you use PoolMath? If so, please share your results (in app option). With that CSI you should not be getting much, if any scaling. I assume you meant .2 but still fine. What is your CH level?

Here are my numbers

PoolMath Logs

troublefreepool.com

 

[PoolGate]

Here are my numbers

PoolMath Logs

troublefreepool.com

Numbers look fine. Are you testing CH with the speedstir? You should not be getting that much scaling.

It is possible with harsh cleaning that the cell is toast. Jandy cells you are lucky to get 3 seasons out of a 3rd party who knows. To be clear, you have a Jandy PLC1400 SWG with a 3rd party cell? And no errors you just don't think you are producing any chlorine?

 

[davidwat]

Numbers look fine. Are you testing CH with the speedstir? You should not be getting that much scaling.

It is possible with harsh cleaning that the cell is toast. Jandy cells you are lucky to get 3 seasons out of a 3rd party who knows. To be clear, you have a Jandy PLC1400 SWG with a 3rd party cell? And no errors you just don't think you are producing any chlorine?

The cell produces chlorine but only in boost mode. It has a clear viewing port on half of the swg and I can see it generating H2 bubbles when it is in BOOST mode but not in routine automated mode.

 

[HermanTX]

The cell produces chlorine but only in boost mode. It has a clear viewing port on half of the swg and I can see it generating H2 bubbles when it is in BOOST mode but not in routine automated mode.

Boost mode is at 100%. So take it out of boost mode and set it at 95% - do you see bubbles?
Some SWCGs do not produce bubbles all the time - the only real method is to test after a given timeframe.
Some do an overnight chlorine gain test. Test just after dark, then increase % and test again before dawn of next day. Did the FC increase?
Alternatively, take a sample of water at the return after 15 minutes when it is in an % vs BOOST mode. Test both samples. This test is more subjective.

 

[generessler]

Afaik, there's almost no difference between Boost and 100% (as @HermanTX said). Boost mainly adds a software timeout. So the reported symptom doesn't make sense. Boost does also override the minimum temp safety. So it could possibly override other out of bounds sensor conditions. But if you are seeing no error codes, that's moot.

The surest way to verify what's going on is to put a voltmeter on the cell (between center terminal and either of the end terminals). Set to Boost. Cell should show 22 to 28 volts. Set to 100%. Cell should show same voltage. Then you can try e.g. 90%. It should be on 90% of the time. I think the cycle is 3 hours. So .9*180 = 162 minutes should be on (same voltage) with 18 minutes off (0 volts).

EDIT: As @wireform said... You can see how this looks in the "Workbook" and other troubleshooting link provided here:

Jandy AquaPure SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[wireform]

Just to add when testing as above that is with the cell connected so you'd raise the plug just enough to get contact with the pins.

 

[davidwat]

Boost mode is at 100%. So take it out of boost mode and set it at 95% - do you see bubbles?
Some SWCGs do not produce bubbles all the time - the only real method is to test after a given timeframe.
Some do an overnight chlorine gain test. Test just after dark, then increase % and test again before dawn of next day. Did the FC increase?
Alternatively, take a sample of water at the return after 15 minutes when it is in an % vs BOOST mode. Test both samples. This test is more subjective.

There are bubbles on boost. There are no bubbles on 55%, 65%, 95%, or 100. %. The large bubble you see is the accumulation of the minute bubbles produced by chlorine generation.

 

[davidwat]

Just to add when testing as above that is with the cell connected so you'd raise the plug just enough to get contact with the pins.

This cell does not have a plug.

 

[HermanTX]

There are bubbles on boost. There are no bubbles on 55%, 65%, 95%, or 100. %. The large bubble you see is the accumulation of the minute bubbles produced by chlorine generation.

We have not seen many of these 3rd party cells. So testing and functionality may be different from an OEM 1400 cell. There is another thread with the same cell that was just purchased. FYI

Jandy PLC1400 Replacement Cost

I received the salt cell yesterday. I will install this afternoon and report back. I am pretty shocked that FEDEX got this thing from Australia to my door step in 3 days. I ordered on the 7th, FEDEX picked up on the 8th, It came into the west coast of the US and all the way over to me on...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[davidwat]

Afaik, there's almost no difference between Boost and 100% (as @HermanTX said). Boost mainly adds a software timeout. So the reported symptom doesn't make sense. Boost does also override the minimum temp safety. So it could possibly override other out of bounds sensor conditions. But if you are seeing no error codes, that's moot.

The surest way to verify what's going on is to put a voltmeter on the cell (between center terminal and either of the end terminals). Set to Boost. Cell should show 22 to 28 volts. Set to 100%. Cell should show same voltage. Then you can try e.g. 90%. It should be on 90% of the time. I think the cycle is 3 hours. So .9*180 = 162 minutes should be on (same voltage) with 18 minutes off (0 volts).

EDIT: As @wireform said... You can see how this looks in the "Workbook" and other troubleshooting link provided here:

Jandy AquaPure SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

I will check voltages when it quits raining. I feel confident bubble accumulation tells me when chlorine production is occurring. There has to be a branch in the flow chart somewhere differentiating boost from standard auto. If this is occurring at an override of the sensors, then maybe it is the sensors even though the only error code I asked I have received is an intermittent (rare) blinking of the green Flow light on the sensor indicator module which resolved when I cycled power on and off to the system. I do not have an LCD screen as part of my aqua pure system.

 

[generessler]

Great.

I do not have an LCD screen as part of my aqua pure system.

Are you sure there's not an Aquapure LCD behind the RS Aqualink board? This is how mine is arranged. I need to remove the screw you can see on your unit all the way at the top right and let the board hinge down to see the LCD and manual buttons. (Your other screw is missing.) Annoying, for sure...

 

[davidwat]

Great.



Are you sure there's not an Aquapure LCD behind the RS Aqualink board? This is how mine is arranged. I need to remove the screw you can see on your unit all the way at the top right and let the board hinge down to see the LCD and manual buttons. (Your other screw is missing.) Annoying, for sure...

Great.



Are you sure there's not an Aquapure LCD behind the RS Aqualink board? This is how mine is arranged. I need to remove the screw you can see on your unit all the way at the top right and let the board hinge down to see the LCD and manual buttons. (Your other screw is missing.) Annoying, for sure...

Thanks for your help. Here is the open panel.

 

[generessler]

Yeah. Mine looks similar. I remove the screw all the way at the upper right to let the RS Aqualink button panel swing forward and down. This exposes the LCD and controls for the Aquapure.

 

[davidwat]

Yeah. Mine looks similar. I remove the screw all the way at the upper right to let the RS Aqualink button panel swing forward and down. This exposes the LCD and controls for the Aquapure.

Thx.. doesn't the LCD panel live in that space next to the push button controls? I would expose the rest of the electronics but it's raining right now.