Chemicals seem to have no effect

[CarefreeTee]

When you do the CYA test, try this next time.

Once you have your solution ready, back to the sun, etc. Fill the vial to a line, say 80, lower the vial to your waist level and glance for the dot, you see it, add solution to the 70 line, glance, see it, repeat until you no longer see it with a glance. Then use the CYA value one step above the line you read. So if you stopped at 50, use 60 ppm CYA.

The vial is a non linear scale. So it is not reasonable to interpolate between the lines. Just use the whole numbers, such as 50, 40, 30, ....

Excellent! I can do that!
Love this space!

 

[proavia]

@CarefreeTee

Post a FULL set of test results from your TF-100 - you need these to establish a base line.
If you don't do a test, do NOT put a zero in the result - just leave it blank.

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Water Temperature

Housekeeping, Reading and Re-reading

• Is your pool 10,000 gallons or 12,000 gallons? Your profile shows 10,000 and your signature shows 12,000. Fix the one that is incorrect. If you enter the incorrect volume into PoolMath, it will provide incorrect results for addition of chemicals.
• Update your signature to include your TF-100 test kit (and delete the Leslies test kit).
• Use the FC/CYA chart to determine your minimum and target range for FC. FC/CYA Levels
• Given your fill water high TA, you will be needing acid in short order. Our temps will be in the 90's later next week.
• Review: Pool Care Basics
• Extended test kit directions: Extended Test Kit Directions Archives

In PoolMath

• You show 2 pools - delete the one you aren't using.
• Be sure your pool volume is correct in PoolMath
• Use PoolMath to log each and every test you do with your TF-100 - don't forget to SAVE (click the checkmark) as your current PM logs do NOT show any test results (except the partial results from 4/6.
• You don't need to do all the tests every time - but you should be doing the FC (FAS/DPD) and pH test DAILY until you get a better handle on your pool.

Always dose FC for the high side of the target range (or a few ppm higher). As the heat and sun intensify, you will be using more chlorine. Remember, the pH test is invalid with FC > 10 (if FC > 10, let it come down to 10 or less before testing pH).
In the next few months, consider increasing your CYA to 50 to help minimize FC burn off (only do this if not in a SLAM Process).

Here is some inspiration - having a TFP pool is simple if you follow the TFP methodology.
How Clear is TFP Clear?

 

[CarefreeTee]

@CarefreeTee

Post a FULL set of test results from your TF-100 - you need these to establish a base line.
If you don't do a test, do NOT put a zero in the result - just leave it blank.

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Water Temperature

Housekeeping, Reading and Re-reading

• Is your pool 10,000 gallons or 12,000 gallons? Your profile shows 10,000 and your signature shows 12,000. Fix the one that is incorrect. If you enter the incorrect volume into PoolMath, it will provide incorrect results for addition of chemicals.
• Update your signature to include your TF-100 test kit (and delete the Leslies test kit).
• Use the FC/CYA chart to determine your minimum and target range for FC. FC/CYA Levels
• Given your fill water high TA, you will be needing acid in short order. Our temps will be in the 90's later next week.
• Review: Pool Care Basics
• Extended test kit directions: Extended Test Kit Directions Archives

In PoolMath

• You show 2 pools - delete the one you aren't using.
• Be sure your pool volume is correct in PoolMath
• Use PoolMath to log each and every test you do with your TF-100 - don't forget to SAVE (click the checkmark) as your current PM logs do NOT show any test results (except the partial results from 4/6.
• You don't need to do all the tests every time - but you should be doing the FC (FAS/DPD) and pH test DAILY until you get a better handle on your pool.

Always dose FC for the high side of the target range (or a few ppm higher). As the heat and sun intensify, you will be using more chlorine. Remember, the pH test is invalid with FC > 10 (if FC > 10, let it come down to 10 or less before testing pH).
In the next few months, consider increasing your CYA to 50 to help minimize FC burn off (only do this if not in a SLAM Process).

Here is some inspiration - having a TFP pool is simple if you follow the TFP methodology.
How Clear is TFP Clear?

Signature done.
CYA 30
FC 2
CC
PH 8.2 (block) meter says 8.7
CH 350
TA 90
Temp 63
CSI 1.02

19 oz Acid and 51 oz chlorine needed?

 

[JJ_Tex]

Seems right.

Since you have some uncertainty in your pH, retest that 30 mins after adding the acid.

Also, don't be shy on the chlorine. Yes, 51oz will get you to 6, but you would be just fine at a higher FC to give yourself some cushion. So FC of 7 is fine, so is 8... so is 10. If you look at my avatar, you can see that I like my chlorine a nice orange color just to be safe.

 

[JamesW]

CYA 30
FC 2
CC
PH 8.2 (block) meter says 8.7
CH 350
TA 90
Temp 63

What is the CSI?

 

[CarefreeTee]

What is the CSI?

Missed that. Nowhere in my TF-100 kit. What is it?

 

[CarefreeTee]

Seems right.

Since you have some uncertainty in your pH, retest that 30 mins after adding the acid.

Also, don't be shy on the chlorine. Yes, 51oz will get you to 6, but you would be just fine at a higher FC to give yourself some cushion. So FC of 7 is fine, so is 8... so is 10. If you look at my avatar, you can see that I like my chlorine a nice orange color just to be safe.

Somewhere in here, I read that adding the chlorine within 15 minutes of the acid is OK? In this case should I be waiting a half hour for a second PA reading (add MA if needed) and then another 30 minutes? Seems to me I’ve got the beginnings of a problem here so I’m going to add the MA right now

 

[Mdragger88]

@CarefreeTee
Be sure to log your test results in poolmath- not just your additions. I’m assuming since you show two pools you have the subscription.

Also turn on csi tracking in the settings poolmath calculates it for you

 

[CarefreeTee]

@CarefreeTee
Be sure to log your test results in poolmath- not just your additions. I’m assuming since you show two pools you have the subscription.

Also turn on csi tracking in the settings poolmath calculates it for you
View attachment 562867

I do have the subscription. I will do that. I was looking for a place to login my results. I couldn’t find it. I will go look again.

 

[Newdude]

I was looking for a place to login my results. I couldn’t find it

Hit the big plus sign at the bottom. You can also add notes.

 

[JJ_Tex]

Somewhere in here, I read that adding the chlorine within 15 minutes of the acid is OK? In this case should I be waiting a half hour for a second PA reading (add MA if needed) and then another 30 minutes? Seems to me I’ve got the beginnings of a problem here so I’m going to add the MA right now

I was just saying wait 30 mins after adding your acid before you re-test your pH to make sure your pH came down to where you expected (since one test said 8.4 and one was 8.7).

As for adding chlorine and acid at the same time, its good practice to wait 15 mins between the two additions. If you are really running short on time, mix in the water a bit with the brush, or add the MA and Chlorine at opposite ends of the pool in front of returns. Just don't mix the raw ingredients or dump them on top of each other in the pool.

Lastly, I just wanted to clarify your comment on needing to quickly add MA since you have the beginnings of a problem. The only metric you really need to rush to get in line is your FC, since that is what kills algae which can start growing in a matter of hours. All other metrics, including pH, have less urgency with the exception of a metric being totally out of whack.

 

[CarefreeTee]

I was just saying wait 30 mins after adding your acid before you re-test your pH to make sure your pH came down to where you expected (since one test said 8.4 and one was 8.7).

As for adding chlorine and acid at the same time, its good practice to wait 15 mins between the two additions. If you are really running short on time, mix in the water a bit with the brush, or add the MA and Chlorine at opposite ends of the pool in front of returns. Just don't mix the raw ingredients or dump them on top of each other in the pool.

Lastly, I just wanted to clarify your comment on needing to quickly add MA since you have the beginnings of a problem. The only metric you really need to rush to get in line is your FC, since that is what kills algae which can start growing in a matter of hours. All other metrics, including pH, have less urgency with the exception of a metric being totally out of whack.

OK great. Your comments are all consistent with what I was trying to say. So the pH is now down to 8.2 and it is very clear that it’s 8.2 on the block test and it is also 8.2 on the pH meter so now I know that the pH meter is working. I had calibrated it a while ago and, I did order some more solution to double check it again, but I feel better about that now. I will go ahead and add the chlorine. I’m going to go very conservative on this because so far the chlorine really hasn’t jumped up at all. I think I might aim for 8ppm this time. Sound good?

 

[CarefreeTee]

OK great. Your comments are all consistent with what I was trying to say. So the pH is now down to 8.2 and it is very clear that it’s 8.2 on the block test and it is also 8.2 on the pH meter so now I know that the pH meter is working. I had calibrated it a while ago and, I did order some more solution to double check it again, but I feel better about that now. I will go ahead and add the chlorine. I’m going to go very conservative on this because so far the chlorine really hasn’t jumped up at all. I think I might aim for 8ppm this time. Sound good?

FC 4.5
pH 8.1
CSI 0.44

 

[Bperry]

Signature done.
CYA 30
FC 2
CC
PH 8.2 (block) meter says 8.7
CH 350
TA 90
Temp 63
CSI 1.02

19 oz Acid and 51 oz chlorine needed?

Id call the pH on this picture a 7.9. Am I reading it wrong?

 

[CarefreeTee]

Id call the pH on this picture a 7.9. Am I reading it wrong?

That photo is old now. I've moved on HAHA. I think my next to last reading was a strong 8.2. It matches my pH meter that I bought with TP-100. It did come down 0.1 for my next FC measurement. I am logging these in now if my explanation is confusing.

 

[Mdragger88]

Great
Logging the results means they will already be there for you in the overview cards as your “current” values when you tap the card to make additions/adjustments.
It also helps you & us know where you started & why you added “x” amount of whatever. It completes the recipe persay - a more complete picture

 

[CarefreeTee]

OK, that is great. I am seeing how that works this morning. So results are
PH 8.3
FC 3.5.

Do I need to be doing every test every day? How often do I test for CYA? Seems to me like the chlorine is pretty unstable. Is that because I haven’t reached a good point or is that because I don’t have enough of that CYA in it?

Also, it doesn’t seem like I ever reach the desired endpoint when I’m adding Chlorine and MA. We’ve always used 10,000 gallons for 30+ years. Could it be because the volume isn’t right? NM…Husband insists it’s 10,000 based on time/rate to empty.

 

[Mdragger88]

OK, that is great. I am seeing how that works this morning. So results are
PH 8.3
FC 3.5.

The ph is high so lets get that down to mid 7’s - as your ta gets lower the ph rise should slow down a little.
The fc is below target range but still above minimum. You want to aim for high target or a scootch above when dosing & replenish before broaching minimum.

Do I need to be doing every test every day?

Fc & ph every day until you get a feel for how they behave then once you get the hang of it you can go a couple days so long as the pool’s appetite is satisfied.

How often do I test for CYA?

Every couple weeks unless you do something that would change cya like make an addition, exchange water etc.

Seems to me like the chlorine is pretty unstable. Is that because I haven’t reached a good point or is that because I don’t have enough of that CYA in it?

The pool eats fc every day - in sunny AZ fc consumption can be anywhere from 1-5 ppm each day depending upon the season/uv. So you must dose accordingly.
Some pools in your climate often need around 50/60 cya in the peak of summer to help protect the chlorine.
But… Before increasing cya further you should do an
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test at target fc levels to rule out organics consuming your fc incase you need to do the
SLAM Process

Also, it doesn’t seem like I ever reach the desired endpoint when I’m adding Chlorine and MA. We’ve always used 10,000 gallons for 30+ years. Could it be because the volume isn’t right? NM…Husband insists it’s 10,000 based on time/rate to empty.

Go here scroll to the bottom of the page to calculate your approximate pool volume.

PoolMath

Discover the calculator behind the perfect pool, PoolMath. Dealing with pools has allowed TFP to become the original authors of the best calculator on the net.

www.troublefreepool.com

& here

Pool Volume Calculator

Check out Pentair's easy-to-use pool volume calculator to calculate the volume of your swimming pool water by choosing the shape, dimensions and depth.

www.pentair.com

Then see what you come up with. Average those
& tweak your volume in poolmath to what seems to fit the results you are achieving with your additions.

 

[CarefreeTee]

The ph is high so lets get that down to mid 7’s - as your ta gets lower the ph rise should slow down a little.
The fc is below target range but still above minimum. You want to aim for high target or a scootch above when dosing & replenish before broaching minimum.
View attachment 563099

Fc & ph every day until you get a feel for how they behave then once you get the hang of it you can go a couple days so long as the pool’s appetite is satisfied.

Every couple weeks unless you do something that would change cya like make an addition, exchange water etc.

The pool eats fc every day - in sunny AZ fc consumption can be anywhere from 1-5 ppm each day depending upon the season/uv. So you must dose accordingly.
Some pools in your climate often need around 50/60 cya in the peak of summer to help protect the chlorine.
But… Before increasing cya further you should do an
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test at target fc levels to rule out organics consuming your fc incase you need to do the
SLAM Process

Go here scroll to the bottom of the page to calculate your approximate pool volume.

PoolMath

Discover the calculator behind the perfect pool, PoolMath. Dealing with pools has allowed TFP to become the original authors of the best calculator on the net.

www.troublefreepool.com

& here

Pool Volume Calculator

Check out Pentair's easy-to-use pool volume calculator to calculate the volume of your swimming pool water by choosing the shape, dimensions and depth.

www.pentair.com

Then see what you come up with. Average those
& tweak your volume in poolmath to what seems to fit the results you are achieving with your additions.

OK. I’ll work on the pool volume later but meantime:
pH 7.3
FC 6

 

[Mdragger88]

OK. I’ll work on the pool volume later but meantime:
pH 7.3
FC 6

Great do an
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tonight & in the am