Pool Chlorine Level Keeps Dropping (Please help! Incurring astronomic costs in chemicals)

Thanks very much, I did get rid of the algae and the pool was very clear and blue. The issue is then it turns in around a week as the chlorine level drops due to the cell not having it topped up. I will read the second link you sent, very helpful thanks!
Algae doesn’t start out visible until it gets crazy, use the SLAM process to get rid of it. Once the CYA gets high enough you need enormous amounts of chlorine to keep algae away. It requires lots of liquid chlorine and a reliable way to test chlorine. That’s the reason for the test kit requirement.
 
  • Like
Reactions: qsch1
Much depends on the pump. When they were available and there was no need for more flow due to water features, I regularly installed 1/2hp pumps on a pool that size with no issues keeping the pool clean and using a SWG if it was on the pool. A simple pool doesn't need anything more powerful, and they were California-legal. DOE regulations put an end to that.

They were always high-head pumps, like Whisperflo, Hayward Tri-Star, and, my favorite, the Waterway Champs-107S that moved more water than either of the others for the same electrical cost. Even used one on a 40,000 gallon, very old concrete-block pool, with only one 1.25" suction line (lily-pad skimmer) and one 1" return. Serviced that pool for over a year with no problems, just ran the pump 10-12 hours a day. It was a rental property and there was no way to talk the owner into a VSP.

Some of the solar pool pumps on the market use the Waterway wet-end on a solar motor and can move 40-50 gpm even on a cloudy day, plenty for a 20K pool. They are DC, variable speed motors that change speed as solar is available, so the flow may not always meet SWG requirements. Don't know what the OP has for a pump, so it may not be adequate.
I agree with what you said...Thanks
 
Thanks, yes it has been working well for about 2 years. The only issue is if the sun isn't out then vacuuming becomes a problem. I have my other pump (Pentair 3 Horse) which I want to reinstall for that, the board had become damaged in a lightening storm and we fitted the solar power 1/2 Horse pump but that has now been replaced.

I also have a 3-horse solar-powered pump, but that needs more panels and is not necessary as I have the half-horse (which uses only 2 panels). Its currently in storage.
 
What simple efficient test kit do you recommend? Is there a electronic one, which can check all those main values (ie. CYA, Free Chlorine, Combined Chlorine and PH)? Thanks
These are the only ones I'd recommend - Test Kits Compared
Of those, the TF-Pro Salt is the best bang for the buck for the residential pool owner who has a SWG.

Electronic ones have their limitations and issues.

If you have a visitor coming from the US, that might be your most cost effective option for a quality test kit and/or another SWG cell.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mdragger88
Thanks, as I said I have had the pump for about two years and had no issues. It runs well (good pressure) for at least 10 hours per day. You can see the filter I have in my signature, I have been using those since I built the pool about 14 years ago but obviously changed the cartridges.
Don’t see anything in your signature on my end are you sure it’s on there?Maybe it’s my phone not showing it?Thanks
 
X2 on what proavia posted for test kit recommendations.
I have a sneaky hunch your cell may be just fine...but over time, and also with lots of "shocking" with unknown (to us) chlorinators, your CYA levels have gone very high, making it very hard/impossible to maintain an effective level of Chlorine over a week. But that's just a wild guess. Can't tell until you can find out what the levels are. If the levels are out of balance, you may be in for a few weeks of frequent/ very frequent testing - more than perhaps your pool guys can/ will do. So having a kit for yourself will be a huge plus. After it all settles down again, you will only need to do a couple of the individual tests a couple of times during a week - they are very fast and easy. Doing the full battery, which also only takes about 15-20 min total, will be less frequent.
You might even find by doing it yourself, that you don't need the pool guys at all, and are saving a LOT of money in chemicals doing it on your own - many of us have.
 
So I did a test with the strips today, I know its not 100% however it shows that all is good except for the chlorine levels which are once again 0. You can see a pic of the pool. I have asked the pool guys to see if they have a better test kit.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3641.jpg
    IMG_3641.jpg
    61.9 KB · Views: 30
  • IMG_3642.jpg
    IMG_3642.jpg
    56.1 KB · Views: 30
  • IMG_3643.jpg
    IMG_3643.jpg
    61.4 KB · Views: 30
X2 on what proavia posted for test kit recommendations.
I have a sneaky hunch your cell may be just fine...but over time, and also with lots of "shocking" with unknown (to us) chlorinators, your CYA levels have gone very high, making it very hard/impossible to maintain an effective level of Chlorine over a week. But that's just a wild guess. Can't tell until you can find out what the levels are. If the levels are out of balance, you may be in for a few weeks of frequent/ very frequent testing - more than perhaps your pool guys can/ will do. So having a kit for yourself will be a huge plus. After it all settles down again, you will only need to do a couple of the individual tests a couple of times during a week - they are very fast and easy. Doing the full battery, which also only takes about 15-20 min total, will be less frequent.
You might even find by doing it yourself, that you don't need the pool guys at all, and are saving a LOT of money in chemicals doing it on your own - many of us have.

CYA looks fine on strips it is brown colour, PH seems slightly high. What kit do you recommend? Thanks
 
So I did a test with the strips today, I know its not 100% however it shows that all is good except for the chlorine levels which are once again 0. You can see a pic of the pool. I have asked the pool guys to see if they have a better test kit.

FYI, we checked the salt recently with a machine and it was 3400, after that I put in two bags of salt and it is now saying it is 3600.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
X2 on what proavia posted for test kit recommendations.
I have a sneaky hunch your cell may be just fine...but over time, and also with lots of "shocking" with unknown (to us) chlorinators, your CYA levels have gone very high, making it very hard/impossible to maintain an effective level of Chlorine over a week. But that's just a wild guess. Can't tell until you can find out what the levels are. If the levels are out of balance, you may be in for a few weeks of frequent/ very frequent testing - more than perhaps your pool guys can/ will do. So having a kit for yourself will be a huge plus. After it all settles down again, you will only need to do a couple of the individual tests a couple of times during a week - they are very fast and easy. Doing the full battery, which also only takes about 15-20 min total, will be less frequent.
You might even find by doing it yourself, that you don't need the pool guys at all, and are saving a LOT of money in chemicals doing it on your own - many of us have.
I am looking at this one: TF-100 Test Kit. Or is it better to get the TF-Pro with SmartStir? Thanks
 
I am looking at this one: TF-100 Test Kit. Or is it better to get the TF-Pro with SmartStir? Thanks
Always better to have the pro with smart stir but getting the TFPRO salt would be better since you have a SWG. No one here will trust anything the test strips say. (Even though the strips says your CYA is too high) Add 5ppm of chlorine without CYA or calcium if you have access to it (sodium hypochlorite)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mdragger88
TF-Pro Salt
Since you have a SWG, get the one with the salt test.

What chlorine options do you have?
Can you get liquid chlorine (sometimes labeled as liquid shock)?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mdragger88
Another possible explanation for the loss of chemicals is overflow. If you are getting a lot of rain or are adding water enough to raise the water level up to the overflow drain, you are losing salt (and other chemicals) water and replacing it with plain (fresh) water. So look at the amount of treated water you’re losing via overflow.

Another notable point: With rain water the top of the pool water (the water that exits via overflow drainage) is the most dilute until it gets adequately circulated.
 
The only chemical he is "losing" is FC aka free chlorine. That is due to not adding enough chlorine to the pool on a daily basis. Once he starts adding liquid chlorine in the correct amount on a daily basis then things will start to straighten out. He HAS to find out the true level of his CYA so he knows how much chlorine he has to add to get and keep his pool clear. Once he gets a good test kit he will be able to turn the pool around.
 
Always better to have the pro with smart stir but getting the TFPRO salt would be better since you have a SWG. No one here will trust anything the test strips say. (Even though the strips says your CYA is too high) Add 5ppm of chlorine without CYA or calcium if you have access to it (sodium hypochlorite)

How many gallons of Bleach is that for a 15 - 20k pool? Doing that today. Thanks
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.