Indoor, in ground pool high combined chlorine

Ok. Walmart by me doesn’t have anything other than the 7%. Menards only has 2 gallons according to their online store (seasonal item). Fleet Farm has 12.5% 4 gallons for $16.99. I’ll call the pool stores tomorrow and see their prices.
Sometimes Walmart has it in the pool section, but the pool section might get shut down for the Christmas decorations this time of year.
 
Ok. Walmart by me doesn’t have anything other than the 7%. Menards only has 2 gallons according to their online store (seasonal item). Fleet Farm has 12.5% 4 gallons for $16.99. I’ll call the pool stores tomorrow and see their prices.
4/$16.99 is a great price for 12.5% ($4.25/gal) scoop that up! Be sure to check the dates!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bperry
What dates should I be looking for? Obviously the fresher the better, but what’s considered a “good date?”
Definitely the newer the better but Within the last month is preferable- stuff that’s 6 months old is not, as it may just be salt water by now. That’s not to say you couldn’t use it if you found it in your shed or something but I wouldn’t pay $4+ a gallon for it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mdragger88
Got the 12.5% chlorine bleach from Fleet Farm. Had use by date of 05/2024. That’s what their whole stock was. Bought 12 gallons.

FC this morning was 1.5ppm and CC was 7.5ppm.

Added 2.5 gal of this 12.5% bleach. Will check again in a few hours.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JamesW
Got the 12.5% chlorine bleach from Fleet Farm. Had use by date of 05/2024. That’s what their whole stock was. Bought 12 gallons.

FC this morning was 1.5ppm and CC was 7.5ppm.

Added 2.5 gal of this 12.5% bleach. Will check again in a few hours.
Check 30 minutes after adding & see what you get
 
I think that you could probably go higher on the TC levels since most of the chlorine is in the form of CCs.

CCs are weaker, so I would probably take the TC to about 60% of the CYA until the FC starts to get equal to the CC and then fall back to keeping the TC at 50% of the CYA until the FC is double the CC and then fall back to keeping the TC at 40% of the CYA.

Otherwise the process is going to take a long time.
 
I think that you could probably go higher on the TC levels since most of the chlorine is in the form of CCs.

CCs are weaker, so I would probably take the TC to about 60% of the CYA until the FC starts to get equal to the CC and then fall back to keeping the TC at 50% of the CYA until the FC is double the CC and then fall back to keeping the TC at 40% of the CYA.

Otherwise the process is going to take a long time.
Wait I’m confused by what you mean here/how to determine what to add. I’m just using the pool math app with my target FC set to 20 (what the Slam option said is my Slam level for my CYA and gallons).

Can you walk me through exactly what you mean? Thanks for the hand holding.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Did you get the UV working?

That might help the process go faster.

Did you find a lab that can test for total organic carbon compounds and other possible contaminants?
Haven’t gotten the UV working yet. Pool company still working on that (I think, I need to follow up).

I’m trying to talk to one of university labs to send the water to.

Thanks
 
  • Like
Reactions: JamesW
Can you walk me through exactly what you mean?
I am probably making it more complicated than necessary.

Just follow the SLAM as normal and let's see how it goes.

If the process seems to be taking too long, we can revisit being more aggressive.

If we can determine the actual contaminant, that would be very helpful.

UV can help move the process along.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mdragger88
Mostly, I was thinking about adding more chlorine per dose to move things along and get faster results due to the unusual circumstances.

The SLAM process works and it is generally considered to be safe, so let's just stay with the normal process for a few more days and then reevaluate based on what happens.
 
It is difficult to tell from the available information, but I suspect that the contaminant is probably a hydrocarbon of some type.

It might be ammonia, but that seems less likely unless there was a breakdown of CYA due to bacteria.

If the CYA was never suddenly lost without apparent cause, I would be leaning towards a hydrocarbon contaminant in the well water.

Also, with straight ammonia, the TC would typically fall more, but you are getting persistent CCs, which indicate that the contaminant is more complex than ammonia.

There are four main different types of hydrocarbons, which are classified as alkanes, alkenes, alkynes and aromatic hydrocarbons.

The three most common and least complex alkanes are methane (CH4), ethane (C2H6) and propane (C3H8).

There are many different hydrocarbons which can be anything from benzene to gasoline to methane etc.

 
Last edited:
Granular activated carbon filtration might be helpful, but you need a definitive analysis and then a treatment company can recommend a treatment system that will provide the necessary processes to remove whatever is in the water to make it safe to drink and swim in and use for cooking and showering etc.
 
Did you find a lab that can test for total organic carbon compounds and other possible contaminants?
A simple approach to establish the presence or not of TOC in any substantive amount is to take an empty bottle, add about a third of pool water, and vigorously shake it. If it develops a good head of foam then it is likely high TOC are present.

I think, given it is bore water, it can be assumed TOCs are present in reasonable quantity.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.