Ok then the add will bring it down some more and it's close enough. Fire at will. Keep us posted.
High Chlorine After Shock
- Thread starter kcassidy0772
- Start date
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,027
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Things are looking real good so far. At 5:30 last night SLAMed to 24ppm. Just tested water now a half day later and it was still 21.5ppm. And very clear, no signs of algae in pool. So I added 37 ounces more chlorine and will check again in another 3 hours. Will be able to check often today since will be home a lot.
Hi folks. Just wanted to update now that weekend is over. Looking pretty good still. Still SLAMing. One thing I’m surprised about, is that the last 2 days my CC has been zero or borderline 0.5 once or twice. My Overnight chlorine test has been less than a 1ppm drop the last 2 nights. And I would say my water looks close to completely completely clear, maybe 85-90%? Hard to know for sure with naked eye. But, I have not “seen” any algae in the pool, but when I check my filter it does show algae, not a lot, but consistently capturing some algae. I guess my question is, based on the filter showing some green, and the pool water appears to be not 100% clear yet, it tells me their is still algae present. But with me keeping the FC at 24ppm and no CC present, wouldn’t this small amount of algae that appears to be present clear up after a couple days?
Reread the SLAM article and it will help you decide. You need to meet 3 criteria to end your SLAM,,,,,,you;re very close and algae in the filter is not one of the three. You might be there already.
Agree. The pool might already be clear, but just keep your FC up while you confirm over the next few days.
I haven't had any algae issues with my pool since I started following TFP almost a decade ago and the single most important lesson for me was to ignore the pool store "standard advice" of FC levels in the fixed 1-4ppm range. Knowing the FC/CYA relationship is paramount to keeping a clear pool. My CYA is typically between 30 and 50 throughout the season, and I always keep my FC between 5 and 9 ppm.
I haven't had any algae issues with my pool since I started following TFP almost a decade ago and the single most important lesson for me was to ignore the pool store "standard advice" of FC levels in the fixed 1-4ppm range. Knowing the FC/CYA relationship is paramount to keeping a clear pool. My CYA is typically between 30 and 50 throughout the season, and I always keep my FC between 5 and 9 ppm.
So, if my numbers are all good per SLAM instructions, but still a little cloudy, I should continue SLAM for this reason? What’s confusing me is since shocking pool at these high levels throws other levels off, like PH, wouldn’t that cause the pool to be cloudy as well?
The first of the SLAM enter/exit criteria, is clear water. If you fail that at either end of the process, there is no need to fail more things like OCLTs.
Passing an OCLT does not mean you can ignore CCs or water clarity. You need 3 for 3, or SLAM continues.
Nope
SLAM after SLAM after SLAM come out TFP clear when followed to a T.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,027
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Yes-
You are done when:
CC is 0.5 or lower; You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss TestAND
The water is clear.(Crystal Clear w/no algae dead or alive)
The ph isn’t off (this is why you lower ph to 7.2 before beginning the slam)
the test is just inaccurate at higher fc levels than 10ppm
So pool still looking ok. I’m having trouble determining how clear is “crystal” clear. Part of my problem determining this is because I got a new liner last year so don’t have as much to go on. Meaning, different color liners reflect pool water appearance differently I guess. Anyway, attached is a picture of my pool at 6:30 this morning. No sun on the pool really at this point. Reason I’m not ready to call it totally clear is because if I give it a good brushing, the water will darken a bit so I’m thinking that means more algae is still present. Or perhaps something else?
Attachments
Looks pretty clear to me. Might be the best you can get with a cartridge filter. A DE filter might get you some more clarity since it can remove smaller particulates, but I wouldn't call your pool cloudy at all. I can see fine lines at the bottom in the liner pattern.
Thanks, so it sounds like you don’t think I’m paranoid and my pool ain’t quite 100% clear. Problem I’m having though is not sure just but looking at water clarity? For example, I can see straight to the floor in my pool, it’s just that it seems somewhat milky after I brush. Is it possible my issue is mustard algae, knowing that the mustard algae is tougher to get rid of? That is why I started this, because of what appeared to be mustard algae on bottom of my pool that kept appearing everyday even after I vacuumed out of pool. I’m just thinking that my levels have been good, and I don’t see any “green algae”., but my pool clarity looks the same everyday for about 5 days now. Not better or worse. Could it be that the SLAM level of 24 is not quit high enough, and maybe shocking at a higher mustard algae level could be the answer?
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,027
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
If you suspect mustard algae you should go to ma slam level for 24 hrs after you have passed all 3 regular end of slam criteria. If it still clouds up when brushing you’re not quite done yet.
Follow all the protocols listed here
www.google.com
Follow all the protocols listed here
Mustard Algae
Today We are going to show you how you can get rid of mustard algae in your pool. By following the steps in this guide and with no expensive chemicals.
www.google.com
Wouldn’t the MA contribute to cloudiness?If you suspect mustard algae you should go to ma slam level for 24 hrs after you have passed all 3 regular end of slam criteria. If it still clouds up when brushing you’re not quite done yet.
Follow all the protocols listed here
Mustard Algae
Today We are going to show you how you can get rid of mustard algae in your pool. By following the steps in this guide and with no expensive chemicals.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,027
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
It should completely go away & you would pass all 3 end of slam criteria. The MA slam level for 24hrs & the other protocols is just the final nail in the coffin if you will. The regular slam is the majority of the prescription.
One thing I’m not 100% sure of in determine the SLAM process. Let’s say I get to the point where I pass the OCLT, and pass the clear water test, but I still see some small spots of the mustard algae on bottom of pool. SLAM says not done until no visible signs of algae. Is that just green algae or does that include this mustard algae, and I need to keep going with regular SLAM process? Or, is that the point where I start to increase to MA levels, because the MA won’t be rectified until I start those higher levels of FC?
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,027
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
It should go away (get less & less each day) with slam level fc & then all 3 exit criteria can be passed.
Its hallmark is that it returns with normal “maintenance” target fc levels not regular slam levels.
The MA slam level is to eradicate any remaining “invisible” trace.
Also, if you truly believe it was MA/if it has been a recurring issue you might want to maintain MA minimum as listed on the chart for some time after completing all the steps. Some find they need to do this for the rest of the season.
.... "Min FC" is 7.5% of the CYA level
.... "Target FC" is 11.5% of the CYA level
.... "Yel/Mstrd Min" is 15% of the CYA level
.... "Shock FC" is 40% of the CYA level
.... "Yel/MstrdShock" is 60% of the CYA level.
Thanks! Didn’t get past thinking of initial MA Shock, but interesting to learn there are also minimum MA levels I can consider when I eventually get back to normal maintenance. One other question about MA: Do I have to vacuum it to waste so it doesn’t keep growing? I think that’s required with green algae. I have a cartridge filter, not sure if that makes any difference.