Rebuilding the pad - advice welcome

[Bengi010]

I’ve decided to redo the equipment pad this year. It started in the spring when I decided I was tired of freezing and it was time to replace the broken heater I inherited with the pool. I picked up a 3 year old Pentair mastertemp 250k btu propane heater. No NG and heatpump was too expensive with the electrical work that would have been necessary. Then I decided the pump needed updating so I bought a Pentair superflo VS. At this point I’m all in and just going to redo all the plumbing, stepping it up from 1.5 to 2”. I splurged on Jandy valves and a flowvis meter which are crazy expensive but hopefully worth it. I am planning to do this over the long weekend. Any advice welcome. The tab feeder will be removed I don’t use it and I plan to add threaded unions at each piece of equipment.

TLDR: Redoing equipment pad with new heater and pump, 2” pvc, Jandy valves, looking for tips.

 

[Bengi010]

Any opinions on whether it’s worth building a roof over the pad to protect from Sun and weather? I was thinking something simple like 4x4 corner posts and a gable or shed roof, no walls.

 

[HermanTX]

If your equipment is sitting on ground, I would first put in a cement slab to ensure everything stays level and out of the dirt.

If you have 2" pipe, then try to have 10inches of straight leading into the pump (the union counts as part of that 10 inches).
Can you push the heater to the left some to give your some room to service the pump?

Consider a heater bypass if you wish to take your heater out of service without having to dismantle pipework.
It requires another Jandy diverter valve and a check valve - Heater Bypass - Further Reading

 

[Bengi010]

Thanks. It is on a concrete pad, wish it was a little bigger, everything is pretty tight. I am planning to do a heater by pass, forgot to mention that.

 

[HermanTX]

Thanks. It is on a concrete pad, wish it was a little bigger, everything is pretty tight. I am planning to do a heater by pass, forgot to mention that.

Well you can always extend the pad if you wish. It would be good to clear all that tall grass around it and maybe put a 1-2 ft wide rock perimeter around the cement pad also.

Do away with the double 90's at the entrance to the filter and heater. Try to make straight runs into those connections.

 

[Kaylee34]

+1 on a simple roof. Your equipment will thank you for it but you'll like it even better.

 

[Bengi010]

Made some progress today preparing. Dug out all the weeds and grass. Tomorrow I’ll fill with peastone

 

[Bengi010]

I decided this morning that since I’m going this far I’m going to add a SWG. I just ordered the circupool RJ45. Hopefully it’s a good one. Now would someone please explain these sacrificial zinc anode things? Is it necessary, recommended or just a waste of money?

 

[HermanTX]

I decided this morning that since I’m going this far I’m going to add a SWG. I just ordered the circupool RJ45. Hopefully it’s a good one. Now would someone please explain these sacrificial zinc anode things? Is it necessary, recommended or just a waste of money?

There are many pools without them, and they have mixed reviews on the forum. Not necessary, IMO.

On your SWCG - have 6 inches of straight before the flow switch. Add salt at least 4 days before you turn it on and purchase a K-1766 salt test kit. Test before you add any salt and use PoolMath app to calculate the needed amount of Salt. Don't add all at once - add 75-80% of your target amount then test after 2 days of mixing. Then add additional amount to reach target.

 

[Bengi010]

This may be a dumb question. Before I cut the supply and return lines do I need to plug the returns and skimmer?

 

[Bengi010]

There are many pools without them, and they have mixed reviews on the forum. Not necessary, IMO.

On your SWCG - have 6 inches of straight before the flow switch. Add salt at least 4 days before you turn it on and purchase a K-1766 salt test kit. Test before you add any salt and use PoolMath app to calculate the needed amount of Salt. Don't add all at once - add 75-80% of your target amount then test after 2 days of mixing. Then add additional amount to reach target.

What is a flow switch?

 

[HermanTX]

This may be a dumb question. Before I cut the supply and return lines do I need to plug the returns and skimmer?

What is the height of the pump relative to your pool water level. If the pool is higher then it could backflow when you cut the pipes.

What is a flow switch?

With the CircuPool you will have 2 pieces that need to be plumbed into the pipework. One is the flow switch and the other is the SWCG. The flow switch is electrically hooked up to the control panel of that also comes with the system. When there is sufficient flow, a signal is sent to the SWCG that it is ok to make Chlorine. If there is no flow or very little flow (for example under 1000 rpm) then the flow switch does not allow the SWCG to turn on. It is very dangerous to have the SWCG turn on when there is no flow - explosions have occurred in the SWCG.
Please read SWG How It Works - Further Reading

 

[Bengi010]

The yard is pretty flat. Water level of the pool is below the pad, but not by alot. I was worried about head pressure. I’d say where I plan to cut the pipe is at most 1-2 feet above water level, maybe less

 

[Bengi010]

I guess I’m being silly. I just realized that water doesn’t come spurting out of my pump when I take the lid off of it, so why would it come shooting out of a pipe?

 

[HermanTX]

The yard is pretty flat. Water level of the pool is below the pad, but not by alot. I was worried about head pressure. I’d say where I plan to cut the pipe is at most 1-2 feet above water level, maybe less

Just drain your filter before you start. You be fine since pad is level to or above the pool water line.

 

[Bengi010]

Plumbing rough in, nothing is glued yet. Only real issue I see is there doesn’t seem to be enough room for the SWG, but I’m hoping you guys can make some suggestions.

 

[Bengi010]

Plumbing rough in, nothing is glued yet. Only real issue I see is there doesn’t seem to be enough room for the SWG, but I’m hoping you guys can make some suggestions.

I think the check valve is in the wrong spot. Can anyone confirm it should be on the outlet line from the heater before the SWG. I have it roughed in on the inlet side

 

[PoolStored]

I think the check valve is in the wrong spot. Can anyone confirm it should be on the outlet line from the heater before the SWG. I have it roughed in on the inlet side

For a bypass, check valve should be on the outlet line from the heater.

File:Pool Heater Bypass.jpg - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

For the SWG, I would do a vertical install. Flow switch on the up side.

 

[HermanTX]

I think the check valve is in the wrong spot. Can anyone confirm it should be on the outlet line from the heater before the SWG. I have it roughed in on the inlet side

Yep. CV needs to be on the outlet side for a heater bypass.
Go Vertical for a SWCG.

 

[Bengi010]

Thanks for all your help everyone. Completed the new build yesterday with the exception of the SWG. It will be here tomorrow and should be easy to cut into the vertical loop that was recommended. Genius idea. I have one small leak at the filter inlet but that will be an easy repair thanks to the coupler. I also added couplers at the bottom of the swg loop so it can be removed for winter or maintenance.

A couple questions.
-When the new pump starts up in priming mode after about 30 seconds or so the pot half empties like it’s sucking air. Is it pulling faster than the water can travel through the lines?
-Is it normal for the 2” pipe to be kind of noisy? Maybe I didn’t notice with the old pump being so loud but the volume (decibels) of the water moving through is surprising.