New to TFP but not new to pools - numbers are off
- Thread starter CopperGirl
- Start date
You said we like to keep FC at a max of 3ppm. I was pointing out that our 'max' was SLAM level which is 40% of your CYA level. With your current 60 CYA, that's 24 FC. That's your max right now and it's FAR preferable to going below min with 3 ppm.
Run your FC wherever it needs to be to allow for tomorrow's daily loss *and* still be free and clear of minimum. It's a moving target that changes throughout the season. Right now it won't be all that much but If you're losing 4 FC a day in the peak season, you need to add at least that much back. You would need to run minimum, plus 4, plus 2 for insurance.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 14,085
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
That’s not where TFP likes to keep it. You didn’t hear that here.
@ TFP we follow the
FC/CYA Levels
High target
is where you want to keep it/dose to so you don’t ever go below minimum 
where nasties will grow.It is safe to swim with fc anywhere between minimum & SLAM level for your cya - which is max) - (so long as you can see the bottom of the deep end for safety)
Yup...at 6 right now so adding 1 gallon 10.5% today. My CYA is at 60. I think that should raise FC to about 16...just so I'm not having to add chlorine every other day. Prefer to test every day and only add once a week if possible. We're not doing much swimming yet and chlorine seems to be dropping 1ppm per day right now..it's been unusually warm in SoFL and SUNNY...can't remember the last rain we had. Thanks for the help.That’s not where TFP likes to keep it. You didn’t hear that here.
@ TFP we follow the
FC/CYA Levels
High target
It is safe to swim with fc anywhere between minimum & SLAM level for your cya - which is max) - (so long as you can see the bottom of the deep end for safety)
View attachment 474892View attachment 474891
something someone told me a little while ago is that the rate of FC loss depends on the FC level, so if your FC is at 16, maybe it'll drop more like 2ppm/day, but if it's at 7 maybe it's more like 1ppm/day. So FC loss rate is a % of FC, not a static number. Anyways, the way I interpret that is maintain a decent FC level, going overboard will just require more chlorine demand and more $ in the long run.
You'll get a good feel for it. I just started using TFP methods when I got my first pool in August last year. Winter threw me for a curve (I'm in Vegas), was very surprised at the drop in FC demand during the winter months. Either way you get a good feel for the FC demand as you test/add chemicals over time. My last FC test was on the 24th, added 64 oz 10% that day, added another 64oz yesterday, and just for kicks today thought I'd test FC and went "ehhh it'll be about 6", and I was spot on.
Nowadays I typically I only run the FC/PH/TA tests when it's about time to add acid. PH/TA was my next learning curve, oh man I was surprised at the frequency at which I needed to add acid. But I finally hit 70 TA last week and I've noticed I get another 2 days or so until PH gets to 8 and I need to add acid. In case you haven't read yet, higher TA will have an upwards pull on your PH.
Yup, read and noted. I can't really check pH until my FC goes below 10 again but yesterday's check, before adding chlorine and 2 cups acid was FC - 6, pH 7.8, and TA of 225. I may try aerating to try to bring the TA down a bit. I need some new return jet fittings though...my eyeballs popped out and can't figure out where they are
.We'll see what happens with daily FC loss and as you said I will get a feel for what it needs to keep it at a level where I'm normally not adding more than once a week. Pool store reco was always normally 1/2 jug (1.25 gallons 10.5%) a week and 2 cups acid during cooler months here in FL and a jug per week during summer (hotter and more rain) and 3 cups acid and of course a tendency to have to add more Stabilizer during the rainy season. It remains to be seen if that is the track I will tend to follow...only home testing will tell. I WILL have a predicament for most of the summer into the fall as we spend most of the time up north so I will have to contract with a pool service to maintain while we're gone and will probably have to get the pool back on track when we return in the fall...not looking forward to that.
I'm unclear why your goal is to add liquid chlorine 1/week? I thought common practice using TFP methods was regular liquid chlorine addition. It's a pretty simple task...Yup, read and noted. I can't really check pH until my FC goes below 10 again but yesterday's check, before adding chlorine and 2 cups acid was FC - 6, pH 7.8, and TA of 225. I may try aerating to try to bring the TA down a bit. I need some new return jet fittings though...my eyeballs popped out and can't figure out where they are
We'll see what happens with daily FC loss and as you said I will get a feel for what it needs to keep it at a level where I'm normally not adding more than once a week. Pool store reco was always normally 1/2 jug (1.25 gallons 10.5%) a week and 2 cups acid during cooler months here in FL and a jug per week during summer (hotter and more rain) and 3 cups acid and of course a tendency to have to add more Stabilizer during the rainy season. It remains to be seen if that is the track I will tend to follow...only home testing will tell. I WILL have a predicament for most of the summer into the fall as we spend most of the time up north so I will have to contract with a pool service to maintain while we're gone and will probably have to get the pool back on track when we return in the fall...not looking forward to that.
- Jun 24, 2021
- 8,544
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60
You should consider installing a SWCG...Yup, read and noted. I can't really check pH until my FC goes below 10 again but yesterday's check, before adding chlorine and 2 cups acid was FC - 6, pH 7.8, and TA of 225. I may try aerating to try to bring the TA down a bit. I need some new return jet fittings though...my eyeballs popped out and can't figure out where they are
We'll see what happens with daily FC loss and as you said I will get a feel for what it needs to keep it at a level where I'm normally not adding more than once a week. Pool store reco was always normally 1/2 jug (1.25 gallons 10.5%) a week and 2 cups acid during cooler months here in FL and a jug per week during summer (hotter and more rain) and 3 cups acid and of course a tendency to have to add more Stabilizer during the rainy season. It remains to be seen if that is the track I will tend to follow...only home testing will tell. I WILL have a predicament for most of the summer into the fall as we spend most of the time up north so I will have to contract with a pool service to maintain while we're gone and will probably have to get the pool back on track when we return in the fall...not looking forward to that.
Yup, read and noted. I can't really check pH until my FC goes below 10 again but yesterday's check, before adding chlorine and 2 cups acid was FC - 6, pH 7.8, and TA of 225. I may try aerating to try to bring the TA down a bit. I need some new return jet fittings though...my eyeballs popped out and can't figure out where they are
We'll see what happens with daily FC loss and as you said I will get a feel for what it needs to keep it at a level where I'm normally not adding more than once a week. Pool store reco was always normally 1/2 jug (1.25 gallons 10.5%) a week and 2 cups acid during cooler months here in FL and a jug per week during summer (hotter and more rain) and 3 cups acid and of course a tendency to have to add more Stabilizer during the rainy season. It remains to be seen if that is the track I will tend to follow...only home testing will tell. I WILL have a predicament for most of the summer into the fall as we spend most of the time up north so I will have to contract with a pool service to maintain while we're gone and will probably have to get the pool back on track when we return in the fall...not looking forward to that.
Please know I'm not expert ... but I would think if you are at a FC above 10 but close that leaving the water sample in the sun a while would drop it enough to check ph? Or dilution maybe.
I'm also thinking you don't have to add CYA if it's high enough to keep your CHL demand decent? Too much risks dumping again...
Your having the pool looked after, by the same folks that didn't know enough to forsee the situation you're recovering from? You might want to leave them instructions...
I'm going to suggest there's more to the site than the suggested articles. Many folks do what you did, explain their issue(s) seeking guidance. Yes, some will be directed to similar articles, but there's a LOT to be learned by seeing how people work through their problems
Last observation, TA can be a lot lower, and there are benefits in having it well below where it is now.
Seem like you're in the home stretch!
MY CYA is at 50 so I shouldn't need to add stabilizer probably until the rainy season since, from what I've read/been told here, the only ways you lose CYA are through rain, splashing water out, and draining the pool. Rainy season is coming so I probably will need to add stabilizer sometime in April or May...that's just what I'm thinking...testing will tell.
The pool store has a pool service but I would NOT choose to use their pool service. And the way I look at it, whatever the pool service I choose does, is always fixable when I get back ;-).
The pool store has a pool service but I would NOT choose to use their pool service. And the way I look at it, whatever the pool service I choose does, is always fixable when I get back ;-).
MY CYA is at 50 so I shouldn't need to add stabilizer probably until the rainy season since, from what I've read/been told here, the only ways you lose CYA are through rain, splashing water out, and draining the pool. Rainy season is coming so I probably will need to add stabilizer sometime in April or May...that's just what I'm thinking...testing will tell.Please know I'm not expert ... but I would think if you are at a FC above 10 but close that leaving the water sample in the sun a while would drop it enough to check ph? Or dilution maybe.
I'm also thinking you don't have to add CYA if it's high enough to keep your CHL demand decent? Too much risks dumping again...
Your having the pool looked after, by the same folks that didn't know enough to forsee the situation you're recovering from? You might want to leave them instructions...
I'm going to suggest there's more to the site than the suggested articles. Many folks do what you did, explain their issue(s) seeking guidance. Yes, some will be directed to similar articles, but there's a LOT to be learned by seeing how people work through their problems
Last observation, TA can be a lot lower, and there are benefits in having it well below where it is now.
Seem like you're in the home stretch!
The pool store has a pool service but I would NOT choose to use their pool service. And the way I look at it, whatever the pool service I choose does, is always fixable when I get back ;-).
I only WANT to have to add chemicals once a week...I do not want to be a slave to my pool. There's no break in FL as far as taking care of your pool so it gets to be a drag. Would like to find a system where I can quickly check FC and pH every other day and add chems only once a week if possible. I understand there are a lot of variables that determine whether or not you need to add chems but as I said I do NOT want to be a daily slave to the pool.
Then you need an SWG. It makes sanitizing the pool a joke. I go 2 weeks at a clip and most of the time when I do break down and test, it was fine. This year was particularly hot and I didn't need an adjustment for 3 months. It just kept chugging along at the 'peak season' level.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 14,085
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
A SWG is not without learning curve, has a break even measured in years, and doesn't mean you won't use chlorine.
That said, it may be your best solution.
That said, it may be your best solution.
SWCGs aren't perfect, no, but there's literally no other way around it if you don't want to be jug lugging every day. That annoyance coupled with the ever-rising cost of chlorine is what has pushed me to finally bite the bullet and go to the dark side. No pool will ever be totally hands off, but SWCGs just eliminate so much of the daily grind.
Outside of FC, I only check pH maybe every few days, and the other stuff every couple of weeks or so. You just get to a point where you "know" the pool and can anticipate what it needs. It's been a long time since I've had a test result come back and I was shocked at the outcome.
Outside of FC, I only check pH maybe every few days, and the other stuff every couple of weeks or so. You just get to a point where you "know" the pool and can anticipate what it needs. It's been a long time since I've had a test result come back and I was shocked at the outcome.
Sounds like that's the direction we maybe need to consider. Thanks for the help!
So here is my current log. I can't seem to get TA to budge much even though I'm adding about 6 cups of acid per week. Any thoughts on what I can do to get that TA down a bit so I can stop having to add so much MA? How far down can my pH safely go if I were to bring it down with a lot of acid then aerate to bring it back up...just to get my TA down. I'm assuming that the reason I'm having to add so much acid is because of the level of the TA?? Thanks in advance.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 48,552
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
The key is to use enough muriatic acid at one time to lower the pH down to about 7.0-7.2. Then just let the pH rise back up to about 8.0 and repeat. That larger swing in pH adjustments should help to lower the TA a little each time you do it.
- Jun 24, 2021
- 8,544
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60
How old is the pool?
Some good reading:
Lower Total Alkalinity
A lower Total Alkalinity level can help a pool owner stabalize their pH increase. We'll explain how to lower TA with a little help from muriatic acid.
www.troublefreepool.com
The pool is 23 years old. The plaster finish is about 7 or 8 yrs. old.How old is the pool?
Some good reading:
Lower Total Alkalinity
A lower Total Alkalinity level can help a pool owner stabalize their pH increase. We'll explain how to lower TA with a little help from muriatic acid.