Adding irrigation valve to use as fill valve

[bdbull]

So my builder ran a water line off of our main after the water meter and before it goes into the house. The line has two ball valves on it, one right after it comes off the main and the other right before it goes into the pool plumbing that goes into the filter. I want to hook this to my automation system (Jandy iAqualink) so I can be lazy and add water from my phone when needed. Can I put an irrigation valve after the second ball valve and hook that to my automation? (TLDR: builder forgot to install autofill, this is the "solution")

I found another thread from 2017 where a member did this exact same thing so I'm assuming I can do it, but just wanted to double check before I start buying stuff. What are some things I need to look out for? Will water come rushing out of the pipes and drain my pool when I start to cut things? (I'm assuming it won't because it didn't happen when this line was installed.) I've read about backflow, check valve, vacuum somethings...do I need any of that? I don't know what I don't know. (Crude drawing attached)

 

[Jimrahbe]

BD,

I use a standard water sprinkler valve, controlled by my EasyTouch, to add fill water to my pool.

I use the water from my lawn sprinkler system, so I don't need an additional backflow preventer. You would need a backflow preventer.

The sprinkler valve operates from 24 Volts AC, so I have a small 120 to 24 VAC transformer that turns the sprinkler valve on and off.

I never know when I will need water, but when I do, I just push an icon on my system and the valve open for an hour and then shuts off. I know at what point I need water and know it take an hour to get back to the max I want in the pool.

I have not seen the water being added to the filter and find that odd. Can you show a pic of how that is done?

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[BMerrill]

A water backflow preventer will be required next to the valve where you tap into the line to the house. This device is typically above ground.
Contact your water provide for approved devices and installation method.
It you tie into the plumbing at the equipment pad, a double check valve should be installed on the supply side of the proposed ball valve, then the irrigation valve.
A check valve needs to be installed on the filter side of the proposed tie in.
Both systems should never operate at the same time.

 

[ajw22]

You must have a Backflow Preventer between the pool system and the house water system for safety to not contaminate the house water. Or there needs to be an air gap between the two water systems.

Without either what your builder did is not safe.

Back Flow Preventer - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[pjt]

it goes into the pool plumbing that goes into the filter

Can you post a picture where the fill water would join your plumbing? Any way to add the fill water directly to the pool?

My pool fill line is controlled as a zone of my irrigation system. I think you'll like it. It's simple, reliable, inexpensive, easy to repair, and gives you total control.

 

[bdbull]

I have not seen the water being added to the filter and find that odd. Can you show a pic of how that is done?

I have not seen this either. When I say it goes into the filter, I mean it goes into the plumbing that then goes into the filter. I would have expected it to be plumbed into a return line so it would go straight into the pool, just like putting a garden hose in the pool.

Without either what your builder did is not safe.

This does not surprise me at all. This is how my whole build has gone. Tell the builder what I want. He tells me he understands. Then I get something completely different.

I've tried to comprehend some of the replies and come up with a proposed drawing. Does this look correct?

I mention this above, but I think the line should have been plumbed into the return instead. The way it was done will require me to run the pump when I add water to the pool. If it was plumbed directly into a return line then it would be no different than a garden hose. If I end up doing a lot of work to turn this into what I want then I may just replumb it into the return myself.

 

[BMerrill]

Do you have a picture of the connect before the filter?

 

[bdbull]

Do you have a picture of the connect before the filter?

I do not have that yet. It's raining and pretty sloppy out there so I haven't been able to get this yet. I can tell from here that it is in the ground though, because there is nothing above ground at all.

 

[bdbull]

Just went out there to see what I could find. Everything is buried except the valve, but here are two pictures I took. The ball valve is literally just there in the dirt and mulch. I would need to dig up the line to see where it actually goes, but I cracked the valve open for a few seconds to see what would happen and the check valve after all the suction lines (red arrow) started flowing so it is definitely plumbed into that side. (In my previous posts, I said it went to the plumbing that goes into the filter. I did not know these lines were called suction lines. Now I do.)

So, I think I eventually need to move that to a return line and add all the other hardware that has previously been mentioned.
Does this new drawing reflect what should be done?
What hardware should be used? The new line is either 3/4 or 1".
Can I just cut the pipe that goes to the suction line and cap it?

Or, should I just leave this as is and tap another line that goes to the return side? Would I ever need a fill line on the suction side?

Ball valve in dirt and mulch. There is also a spigot inside the green box that is on this line before the ball valve.

Check valve on suction side

New proposed drawing

Sorry for all the questions, but as you can see, my builder isn't much help.

 

[lovemyazpool]

So my builder ran a water line off of our main after the water meter and before it goes into the house. The line has two ball valves on it, one right after it comes off the main and the other right before it goes into the pool plumbing that goes into the filter. I want to hook this to my automation system (Jandy iAqualink) so I can be lazy and add water from my phone when needed. Can I put an irrigation valve after the second ball valve and hook that to my automation? (TLDR: builder forgot to install autofill, this is the "solution")

I found another thread from 2017 where a member did this exact same thing so I'm assuming I can do it, but just wanted to double check before I start buying stuff. What are some things I need to look out for? Will water come rushing out of the pipes and drain my pool when I start to cut things? (I'm assuming it won't because it didn't happen when this line was installed.) I've read about backflow, check valve, vacuum somethings...do I need any of that? I don't know what I don't know. (Crude drawing attached)

View attachment 471303

You can absolutely do this, I did but as some point out there are valves you need to add. I have some good writeups on how I did this myself almost exactly how you want to do it.

Pool Fill Control

A system to monitor water level, temp, pH, ORP, filter pressure, electrical usage, and pump operation. Refills pool when necessary. By Richard Sears.

www.hackster.io

 

[ajw22]

I would remove the ball valves and replace them with diverter valves or metal knife valves.

The ball valves will eventually stick and handles will break and you will be dealing with more repairs in a few years.

 

[markayash]

I saw your in Ga and LOL it has rained none stop all month it seems. I had my pool a good 8” below the tile line in Dec and now it’s above it.

I debated doing the same thing and using a smart sprinkler controller and setting it to run so many minutes per day or as needed.

 

[Toxophilite]

I think you will have issue with irrigation valve closing after open. If it can't evacuate, the diaphragm can't close. With sprinkler systems, they don't fully close till almost all pressure and volume can evacuate via the sprinkler heads.

 

[bdbull]

I saw your in Ga and LOL it has rained none stop all month it seems. I had my pool a good 8” below the tile line in Dec and now it’s above it.

Don't even get me started on the freaking rain. We had drainage issues from our build anyway and then throw all this rain on top of it and our yard is literally a muddy mess. I heard today that it has rained 16 days this month and it's tied for the 20th wettest January in Atlanta in history. Athens had its 8th wettest January! It's ridiculous!!!

 

[ajw22]

Which pipe does that fill water come into?

You point to the check valve but that is to prevent your pump basket from draining when you open the pump lid.

Is your pump above or below the pool water level?

 

[bdbull]

Which pipe does that fill water come into?

From left to right on the 3 pipe configuration, it's either #2 or #3. I say that because #1 appears to be closed and the lone pipe by itself is the air blower for the spa.

You point to the check valve but that is to prevent your pump basket from draining when you open the pump lid.

The check valve is supposed to prevent the basket from draining when I take off the lid? Literally every time I've taken off the lid the water drains back that way. In fact, I crack the lid open and wait for it to drain so I don't make a mess.

Is your pump above or below the pool water level?

Pump is a good bit above water level.

The more I read and learn about this, the more I begin to think what my PB did couldn't be more wrong. I'm almost thinking about turning the line he put in into a water feature. Hook it up to an irrigation valve for control and run a pipe up and out of the ground in a flower bed and have it shoot water into the air that lands in the pool. It would be a cool water feature and a fill valve with an air gap.

 

[ajw22]

From left to right on the 3 pipe configuration, it's either #2 or #3. I say that because #1 appears to be closed and the lone pipe by itself is the air blower for the spa.

I see four pipes.

The left pipe running along the ground is for your blower you say.

The pipe that is off on the left side of the actuator is your spa suction.

Then you have two pipes coming into a 3 way diverter valve on the pool suction side that are probably for your skimmers and/or main drain depending on what you have.

I don’t think that fill water line is connected where you think it is.

The check valve is supposed to prevent the basket from draining when I take off the lid? Literally every time I've taken off the lid the water drains back that way. In fact, I crack the lid open and wait for it to drain so I don't make a mess.

Pump is a good bit above water level.

Then that check valve is not working.

The pump is draining because it is above the waterline.

You can close the pool suction diverter by turning the handle 90 degrees counter clockwise to shut the water inlet before you open the pump lid. Just remember to reposition the valve before turning on the pump.

The more I read and learn about this, the more I begin to think what my PB did couldn't be more wrong. I'm almost thinking about turning the line he put in into a water feature. Hook it up to an irrigation valve for control and run a pipe up and out of the ground in a flower bed and have it shoot water into the air that lands in the pool. It would be a cool water feature and a fill valve with an air gap.

Post pics showing your entire equipment pad. There is more to understand.

 

[bdbull]

These are the best ones I have on my phone so it's the best I can do tonight. I can get some more pictures tomorrow. And you are correct on the 4 pipes in the previous picture. Single pipe on the left is air blower, then (L to R) spa drain, skimmers, pool drain. I have no idea which return pipes go where, but I have two jets about a foot apart on each side of the pool, a port that the pressure cleaner connects to, and two bubblers on the tanning ledge.

 

[ajw22]

I would turn off your pump.

All water in your pool should be still.

Open the ball valves on your fill water line.

Look around your pool and see any signs of water flow.

On a separate note you have an Aqualink system? Your return actuator is set so your spa spillover runs all the time you are in POOL mode. This causes your pH to rise due to the spillover aeration. We recommend you enable SPILLOVER mode with dip switch 3 and then schedule your spillover to run once or twice a day for 20 minutes to refresh your spa water. See …

Jandy Aqualink RS - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[bdbull]

I would turn off your pump.
All water in your pool should be still.
Open the ball valves on your fill water line.
Look around your pool and see any signs of water flow.

As usual, it's supposed to rain tomorrow, but I'll see if I can try this if it lets up for a while.

On a separate note you have an Aqualink system? Your return actuator is set so your spa spillover runs all the time you are in POOL mode. This causes your pH to rise due to the spillover aeration. We recommend you enable SPILLOVER mode with dip switch 3 and then schedule your spillover to run once or twice a day for 20 minutes to refresh your spa water. See …

Yes I have an Aqualink system. So, if I enable spillover mode then I should schedule the spa spillover to run independently of the pump? If I enable spillover mode, then when spillover is running will water only be returned to the spa? And vice versa for pool mode, water only returned to the pool?

Does that mean the right return line goes to the spa?

My PB never explained any of this to me. He just set my pump to run at full speed from 9-5 and told me it was ready to go. It's not like that anymore. I've learned a lot from these forums and have it running at a much more energy efficient speed and time.

Edit: Just looked at my iAqualink app and it looks like my Aux3 is Lights.