Pentair Superflo VST

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David0408

Well-known member
Oct 16, 2017
176
San Antonio, TX
Hi guys,
So I just installed my new pump. Any recommendations as to setting up the run times? I think I need to update my profile, but I have the Superflo as well as a circupool RJ60. I’m supposed to run it 24/7 right? My only question is about the SWG. Do I set the rpm’s to keep it producing chlorine 24/7 even in low rpm mode? Thanks!
 
You can run it however you wish, provided you’re making enough FC to stay in the good.

I’m fond of 24/7 at low rpm - very little electrical cost and allows my RJ60+ to burble away making chlorine all the time.
 
You can certainly run it 24/7, but not necessary. Do you need to skim the surface all the time?

You need to see what your pool consumes for FC each day and be sure the SWCG is creating at least that amount of FC each day.
 
David,

I like to run my pump 24/7, but it is not a requirement, just a personal choice.

I like to make a little chlorine all the time and I like to skim all the time, so running 24/7 works well for me.

The only thing that really matters is that you run the pump long enough so that your SWCG can produce the amount of FC your pool needs each day.

You could set the cell to 100% and run the pool pump for a short period of time, or you can set your cell to a low output and run the pump longer.

It is up to you.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Seems to be a trial and error thing, huh? I feel like if the pump is running it should be producing chlorine. Right now it’s running 1400 rpm’s and it not enough to engage the SWG. I think I’ll just increase it until the SWG kicks in and that will be my low mode. Run that for 20 hrs maybe and then kick up the rpm’s to skim the pool for the other 4 hrs? Idk, but I’m looking forward to playing with it. It‘s sooo quiet. Can’t wait to hear 3000 rpm’s! Maybe I won’t, in the end, run the pump 24/7. But for now I want to.
 
David,

Since you want to run 24/7, I suggest that you increase your pump speed until the SWCG just turns on. Then add 100 RPM, just to make sure, and call that the lowest speed you ever want to run.

Run it 24/7 at that speed for a few days and see how well your pool is skimming. I suspect that you will not need to run faster just to skim. And, if you do, it won't be at 3K.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
David,

Since you want to run 24/7, I suggest that you increase your pump speed until the SWCG just turns on. Then add 100 RPM, just to make sure, and call that the lowest speed you ever want to run.

Run it 24/7 at that speed for a few days and see how well your pool is skimming. I suspect that you will not need to run faster just to skim. And, if you do, it won't be at 3K.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I’m so brainwashed by the single speed motor that I felt that I just had to kick it up to 3k for whatever reason. Good to hear that it’s not necessary.

The SWG wouldn’t operate at 1400 but it does at 1500. Tomorrow I’ll program it to run at 1600 24/7 and see what happens with the skimmer.

Thanks Jim!
 
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Two questions. First, my SWG generates chlorine at 1600 but the low salt light flashes. At 2000 rpm’s, my current skim speed, the low salt light goes off. I want to run the pump and SWG 24/7 so is it ok for the low salt light to flash on the lower 1600 rpm speed? The watt difference between 1600 and 2000 is 134watts. Maybe just run it at 2000 rpm’s forever?

Second, should I wire the SWG to come on with the pump? The manual says that with variable speed pumps that it may not be necessary because there is always power to the pump.
Thanks!
 
David,

If the pump is set to run 24/7 you don't have to worry about the cell being on when the pump is off.

The low salt light should not have anything to do with the pump speed, but then again, I don't know much about the RJ-60,

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Only time I see low salt is when low salt is present. How are you testing for salt? Taylor K-1766 is money well spent to know true salt level.

Are you tracking CSI? Any scaling in the cell (white between plates)? Low salt warnings can precede cell maintenance warnings due to scale bridging the plates.
 

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reggiehammond said:
Only time I see low salt is when low salt is present. How are you testing for salt? Taylor K-1766 is money well spent to know true salt level.

Are you tracking CSI? Any scaling in the cell (white between plates)? Low salt warnings can precede cell maintenance warnings due to scale bridging the plates
Click to expand...
yeah my test kit is the Taylor one and it says that I’m at 3600ppm. I just cleaned the cell a couple months ago. I’m in the middle of a SLAM right now so I have it powered off. Once the slam is done I’ll adjust all of the chemicals and try again. Its weird though. The SWG starts to generate chlorine with the generate light solid green. Then after some time the low salt starts to flash and then it goes solid red and then the maintenance light comes on. My water is very hard. There is some light scaling on the plates but nothing too crazy.
 
I have a RJ-60 and just went from a single speed to a VSP pump. The installer did not hook up the pump/SWG like I wanted and left it like before on the mechanical timer but pulled the stops off . What I noticed is if I put the pump at 600 rpm- the RJ60 was fine for 5-10 minutes then said there was no flow/fault.
So I wired the SWG to the aux load on my VSP to power on and run the pump at 1100 rpm

RJ-60 needs 25-30 GPM min per manual and looking at my pump curves 600 was not on there but likely too low
 
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