Green Cloudy Pool for Two Weeks

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Arzgrl21

Active member
Aug 7, 2022
25
Michigan
Pool Size
25700
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
After over two weeks of getting no where with the pool stores advice I’m done with them and am switching to TFP methods. Ordered the TF100 test kit today but need help in the meantime. Pool started out cloudy but blue over two weeks ago. We had a pool party and then changed our cartridge filter with a brand new one as I’m the past the cloudiness was due to a bad filter. Filter was not put on correctly and therefore not working properly for over a day so needless to say the problem got worse. Per Leslie’s used Green to Clean followed by shock and there was no improvement (actually seemed to get greener). Have since added NoPhos as they said it was phosphates, still nothing, shocked the heck Out of it two nights in a row at 3 times the normal shock level and then used clear aid and still nothing. Picture attached shows what it now looks like and has pretty much looked like for the last week. I have test strips and the last pool store readings but knowing they are not accurate what should I do while I wait for my test kit??
 

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Welcome to the forum!
While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach (1 1/2 gallons of 10%) to your pool each evening with the pump running. This will replenish the FC lost each day to the sun and also inhibit any algae in the water from growing further.

I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool
 
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Welcome to TFP, @Arzgrl21! Unfortunately you're yet another victim of getting Pool Stored. Marty has given you the right plan of attack until your test kit arrives.

It's important to understand a few key points about your water chemistry: First, your filtration has nothing to do with your pool turning green. This is the result of algae growth due to insufficient chlorine. The magic pool store snake oil potions that Leslie's sold you won't do anything to correct the problem, especially not phosphate remover. Phosphates are not even a metric we monitor in the TFP method (nor is TDS) because they have no effect on a pool with proper water chemistry. It is true that phosphates are algae food - however - if your water is inhabitable to algae growing in the first place, it truly doesn't matter.

How are you chlorinating today? Pucks/tabs? If so, most pucks add stabilizer (cyanuric acid/CYA). This is fine, but CYA degrades at a significantly slower rate than chlorine, meaning you end up with entirely too much CYA in the ratio. As CYA climbs, your level of FC must climb with it, and that's something pucks physically can't do. Follow the Pool Care Basics link above and be sure to read the page about the FC/CYA Ratio.
 
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Ohmy.... Please STOP using all those expensive yet worthless potions. One in fact may make it harder to hold on to chlorine which you need badly to remedy algae.
You need liquid chlorine.... sold at Lowes, Home Depot, Walmart's pool section, or at pool stores sold as "Pool Shock" Also you can use PLAIN unscented, unthickened, NON-Clorox type techy bleach. It isn't as strong as Liquid Chlorine but works just as well, although takes more ounces.

We need to know (once your test kit arrives) your pool's levels:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt if aplicable

Just "shocking" a pool once does little to fix the algae problem. It just stuns it for a day, but some will remain and start reproducing again in no time. So you want to SLAM Process-> *Shock Level* and *Maintain* that higher level. It lasts until you meet 3 criteria- sparkling clear water, CC test of 0.5 ppm or less, and you paxs an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to prove nothing is in the water.

You test the water often, and use the app PoolMath to tell you how much liquid chlorine to use to raise your FC to the SLAM level. Some folks test as often as every 2 hours and re-dose to keep the level high enough. Then brush daily as that disruptes any algae hidden under resistant biofilm.

We can help you all along the way.....but the most important part is you don't need *anything* but liquid chlorine!!


Maddie :flower:
 
Hi and welcome, we here feel for you as many have come from the same situation where you're now. Marty gave you good advice. Depending on the outcome of YOUR OWN testing when the kit arrives, will determine the guidance .......stay the course. In the meantime you can go shop for good source of liquid chlorine as you'll need plenty but most importantly get the kit ordered NOW. There's no mention of a SWCG (salt water generator) so you can get the regular TF-100 but I'd recommend you get the smart stirr which is one of the best investments with the kit to make testing more uniform and easier.
 
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dfwnoob said:
Welcome to TFP, @Arzgrl21! Unfortunately you're yet another victim of getting Pool Stored. Marty has given you the right plan of attack until your test kit arrives.

It's important to understand a few key points about your water chemistry: First, your filtration has nothing to do with your pool turning green. This is the result of algae growth due to insufficient chlorine. The magic pool store snake oil potions that Leslie's sold you won't do anything to correct the problem, especially not phosphate remover. Phosphates are not even a metric we monitor in the TFP method (nor is TDS) because they have no effect on a pool with proper water chemistry. It is true that phosphates are algae food - however - if your water is inhabitable to algae growing in the first place, it truly doesn't matter.

How are you chlorinating today? Pucks/tabs? If so, most pucks add stabilizer (cyanuric acid/CYA). This is fine, but CYA degrades at a significantly slower rate than chlorine, meaning you end up with entirely too much CYA in the ratio. As CYA climbs, your level of FC must climb with it, and that's something pucks physically can't do. Follow the Pool Care Basics link above and be sure to read the page about the FC/CYA Ratio.
Click to expand...
My FC was so high from my shock I haven’t added chlorine in almost a week. I had added 11 pounds of shock (calcium hypochlorite 73%) within two nights which had my FC higher than their tests would read. At that time my CYA according to pool store was 57. I generally use tabs in a floater and then liquid chlorine.
 
mknauss said:
That added 37 ppm FC. I bet you are in the single digits or zero by now.
Click to expand...
I do have this test kit for chlorine and PH and it appears I’m still high in chlorine and have t added any in a week. Should I still add 5ppm of liquid each night until I get the TFP 100 kit?
 

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mknauss said:
That might be 7-10 ppm. And that is TC, not FC.
I would add the 5 ppm FC per day with the pool as green as you sho
Click to expand...
I got my TF-100 kit. Readings are as follows:

FC - 18.5
CC - .5
TC - 19
CH - 550
TA - 110
CYA - 60
PH - 8.6
I’m ready to get my pool back on track. What’s my next step?
 
Read up on the SLAM process and begin the SLAM. Basically, you will keep your FC elevated until your pool is crystal clear and you meet the 3 criteria to end the slam.
www.troublefreepool.com

SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain

We’ve all had to deal with a green pool. Clear algae from your pool with a SLAM! Read here to use shock level and maintain to clear your pool.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

The only thing a bit concerning is your pH. 8.6 is high but also not accurate over FC of 10.0. I may let it drift down to 10 and get an accurate pH number. One of the first steps in the SLAM is to lower your pH to 7.2, then you start adding your chlorine.
 
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FC is at 15 this morning. PH is 8.1 though I know it’s not that accurate with the FC being over 10. Pool is very green. How important is it to get the PH to the 7.2 mark? May take awhile to get our FC down as it only lost 3PPM overnight and I don’t want the water to keep getting worse by not adding chlorine. Can I start SLAMMING?
 
I'm hoping others jump in here, but barring anything from the experts, here is what I would do if I were you:

- Estimate my current pH. Per your pool math logs, you were at 7.8 pH 7 days ago. I would estimate your current pH as 8.0, assuming you are comfortable with your reading from last week.
- Shoot to bring your pH down to 7.4, which in your pool would take 64oz of 31% strength MA. Even if your pH is still at 7.8, that would bring it down to 7.2, which is fine.
- Start the SLAM. Follow the process to a T. Also know that it will probably take weeks to clear, so mentally prepare for that as well as make sure you have enough liquid chlorine and testing supplies.

Good luck.
 
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I have been struggling with a green pool for a month now. Started the SLAM process yesterday; CYA is 60 which calls for FC to be sustained at 24 until all 3 criteria are met. Got FC up to correct level yesterday afternoon and as of this morning still no loss in chlorine? This seems strange with the pool being so green. Do I need to do a higher FC level?
 

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