It ain't compact. She is a BIG girl.It's a clever way to get a lot of surface area in a compact unit.
It ain't compact. She is a BIG girl.It's a clever way to get a lot of surface area in a compact unit.
Karen, there's an excellent wiki resource here to guide you on draining your pool. Since you'll need to exchange about half of your water, I recommend digesting in its entirety before attempting the drain which, in extreme cases, can undermine your pool's structural integrity: Draining - Further ReadingThanks sooo much Jim! I think I'll drain a bunch of water to see if I can bring the CYA down.
Also thanks for the very valuable tip on cell size.
I really appreciate your help!
Karen
I’m in a similar situation. The salt water system is extremely easy to maintain. I have a salt water generator and a variable speed pump. I run both 24/7. Basically I run the SWG at a lesser % all the time and that prevents a drastic dip in chlorine levels. If you convert and learn and follow the trouble free pool methodology you can expect to speed less then $100.00 a season on chemicals. That will leave you with a budget to buy a pool robot army, which is the easiest way to deal with all the debris you get in the pool. I have a dolphin pool robot that I run every night and an instapark beta 2 solar powered skimmer bot that runs all day and keeps the majority of debris out of my skimmer. I wouldn’t want to even think about maintaining my pool without the salt water generator, the variable speed pump and my robots. It would be a daily struggle without them due to the amount of debris I get.My pool is on the edge of a forest and gets a TON of organics (spruce pollen, poplar fluff, ants etc) in it - especially in the spring
System 3 filters filter from both sides to the middle and have port at the bottom of each cartridge to return the water. What you see is completely normal. That cartridge is one of two and is in a filter of at least 300 sq. ft.Karen,
I don't think a SWCG is going to help keep junk out of your filter.
Your best option would be to install a much larger filter. The bigger the filter the longer you can go between cleanings.
Tell us exactly what brand and size filter you have.
I find it odd that your debris are inside your filter instead of on the outside.That just may be the way yours works, I don't know.
A SWCG would help you maintain a more stable FC level. You don't say you are having trouble maintaining your FC and I doubt that the debris have anything to do with using up your FC.
Tell us what your CYA level is and what FC are you trying to maintain?
Thanks,
Jim R.
WOW! I did not know there was such a thing as a skimmer bot. I will definitely be checking that out and a pool robot as well. I have my pump running 24/7 as well.I’m in a similar situation. The salt water system is extremely easy to maintain. I have a salt water generator and a variable speed pump. I run both 24/7. Basically I run the SWG at a lesser % all the time and that prevents a drastic dip in chlorine levels. If you convert and learn and follow the trouble free pool methodology you can expect to speed less then $100.00 a season on chemicals. That will leave you with a budget to buy a pool robot army, which is the easiest way to deal with all the debris you get in the pool. I have a dolphin pool robot that I run every night and an instapark beta 2 solar powered skimmer bot that runs all day and keeps the majority of debris out of my skimmer. I wouldn’t want to even think about maintaining my pool without the salt water generator, the variable speed pump and my robots. It would be a daily struggle without them due to the amount of debris I get.
This is exactly what I haveIt is sandwich where the inside/outside filter material is the bread and the water leaves through a port in between them. There are two ports in the filter housing that the filters slip over and there are no parts to assemble/break.
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Unfortunately you can't backwash these. You have to drain the bell (release the pressure), unscrew all the clamps, lift off the heavy 'lid' and pull out the wet cartridges. I then spend about an hour hosing off each and every pleat in the filter.Theoretically you can backwash this filter without having to open it. Or am I wrong?
Thanks Maddie, I have a solar blanket which collects the Crud which then falls into the pool while I wind it up to remove it from the water. I think an automatic cover that I could sweep off before I wind it off would be a great idea and when it comes time to renovate the pool I will check that out. Cheers! KarenKaren, Hi
Have you ever considered adding an automatic pool cover to the pool to help you avoid much of that organic schmutz and simplify things? There are covers which can be added after the fact and the cover roll sits on the deck at one end.
Maddie![]()
Thanks for the resource. This site is awesome!!Karen, there's an excellent wiki resource here to guide you on draining your pool. Since you'll need to exchange about half of your water, I recommend digesting in its entirety before attempting the drain which, in extreme cases, can undermine your pool's structural integrity: Draining - Further Reading
Yes, the inlet is above the outlet. It is model S8M150
This is exactly what I have I have model S8M150It is sandwich where the inside/outside filter material is the bread and the water leaves through a port in between them. There are two ports in the filter housing that the filters slip over and there are no parts to assemble/break.
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Use the pool brush like a broom and sweep it all to easy to scoop spots along the edge. You'll always miss some, but 98% of it can be tossed aside.have a solar blanket which collects the Crud which then falls into the pool while I wind it up
use the leaf rake while pushing down on the edge of cover the water will help you get it right in.* Be extra careful bending down awkwardly to scoop the crud. Kneel firmly instead of squatting as solar covers may wrap you up like an underwater burrito if you fall in.
I’ve never seen anything good about the concept of removing CYA other than water replacement. There are bacteria that eat CYA, but the conditions that allow it to do its thing are very hard to achieve and the byproduct is apparently usually ammonia. I ran into a dead end but here’s a stub.Thanks for the resource. This site is awesome!!
I actually completed the drain this past weekend. I took it down to about 2" high in the shallow end. The liner was just starting to ripple in places at that point so did not go further. I figured I got about 50% of the water replaced, took a new sample in for assessment and was told the CYA is now 100. (It started pre-drain at 166). I had been hoping for more like 80 but c'est la vie.
I'm contemplating purchasing the CYA removal kit from Natural Chemistry. Any thoughts on that?
Cheers,
Karen