First Test

I'm going to back off and let someone with more experience help you. I've never drained my pool and I'd hate to steer you astray.
 
  • Like
Reactions: KeriCarter
As far as matching the input you'd just valve it off till your equal so the way I do it is take a five gallon big box store bucket and have the pump you're going to use with the very hose you will use and fill the bucket 3 times on a stop watch and jot that number down then you'll take the hose which you intend to use and slow it down to the same timing as the pump rate/speed. You'll then divide the total number of gallons by 5 for the amount of minutes/hours it'll take. I always add 10-15 % more to be sure I achieve the drain/fill amount. Not sure if this is an option but could you possibly pump it into an empty tanker like the guys that deliver water....so you'd rent a trash water pump that can empty the pool in a very short time and then just fill complete new water from hose.
 
  • Like
Reactions: KeriCarter
As far as matching the input you'd just valve it off till your equal so the way I do it is take a five gallon big box store bucket and have the pump you're going to use with the very hose you will use and fill the bucket 3 times on a stop watch and jot that number down then you'll take the hose which you intend to use and slow it down to the same timing as the pump rate/speed. You'll then divide the total number of gallons by 5 for the amount of hours it'll take. I always add 10-15 % more to be sure I achieve the drain/fill amount. Not sure if this is an option but could you possibly pump it into an empty tanker like the guys that deliver water....so you'd rent a trash water pump that can empty the pool in a very short time and then just fill complete new water from hose.
That is very detailed and doable. With my CYA being 400, would you recommend an entire water exchange? Also, during this time, should I be adding bleach and how much? Thank you!
 
I'm not convinced that a no drain water exchange can work for 100% of the water because at some point it'll start to mix and then it's pumping new water along with it.
So you do think I need a 100% exchange? I’ll see if I can grab a pump and a super long hose tomorrow. I’ll try and drain it in the woods so it doesn’t kill the pond and creek. Thank you!
 
  • Like
Reactions: markayash
Let's put it this way in order to efficiently do a slam you'd want a CYA 40 that's a 90% drain which I don't think is possible due to mixing at that many gallon exchange so you may as well dump it completely and start anew.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: KeriCarter
Let's put it this way in order to efficiently do a slam yout want a CYA 40 that's a 90% drain which I don't think is possible due to mixing at that many gallon exchange so you may as well dump it completely and start anew.
Good plan. I will start tomorrow. Thank you!
 
Just be forewarned in case you do a full drain and fill that you investigate that there's no danger to ground water where you are that can cause the pool shell to pop out of the ground.
Good thinking. I was just looking this up and from what I can tell, our water table is very high and our pond being so close might cause issues as well. We are higher, being on a hill, but I’m not sure I trust that to protect it. I might be back at the simultaneous fill and spill. It will take forever though. 😒
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Good thinking. I was just looking this up and from what I can tell, our water table is very high and our pond being so close might cause issues as well. We are higher, being on a hill, but I’m not sure I trust that to protect it. I might be back at the simultaneous fill and spill. It will take forever though. 😒
Option 2 is drain 1/2 or a little and fill back a couple of times. If a pond is that close I would be concerned also.
If you do that have several jugs of liquid chlorine ready to get it back to normal.
 
  • Like
Reactions: KeriCarter
How about trying this...

 
  • Like
Reactions: KeriCarter
The Tarp method is very efficient but also very dangerous due to possible drowning. If you are going to try it, it needs constant supervision and the kids locked up(just kidding)!
 
Option 2 is drain 1/2 or a little and fill back a couple of times. If a pond is that close I would be concerned also.
If you do that have several jugs of liquid chlorine ready to get it back to normal.
Perfect idea. Thank you! My pool math says I have roughly 20,000 gallons. I’m not sure I can safely do 1/2 at a time. Could I daily: drain some, fill back up, test and then add a couple of gallons of chlorine? I feel like I’ve been thrown in the deep end here. I’m overwhelmed never having had a pool before and starting here.
 
Last edited:
How about trying this...

That looks like a smart idea, but with one week of pool ownership under my belt, I’m not that confident in my skills yet. 😂
 
Perfect idea. Thank you! My pool math says I have roughly 20,000 gallons. I’m not sure I can safely do 1/2 at a time. Could I daily: drain some, fill back up, test and then add a couple of gallons of chlorine? I feel like I’ve been thrown in the deep end here. I’m overwhelmed never having had a pool before and starting here.
It just takes time, if water is cheap that’s what I would do. I can drain and fill
Mine is around $300 and it’s 22000. Water company will usually take about $75 of the sewer side so really just $225.
 
  • Like
Reactions: KeriCarter
It just takes time, if water is cheap that’s what I would do. I can drain and fill
Mine is around $300 and it’s 22000. Water company will usually take about $75 of the sewer side so really just $225.
Thankfully we are on septic. Water is cheap. I’m heading out to buy bleach now. I’m torn on our family that’s coming for the weekend. Should I tell them the pool isn’t open?
 
If the water is still clear and the pH is in range between 7.2 - 7.8, go ahead and swim.

It would be optimum to use liquid chlorine to achieve FC at 7% of whatever your CYA is at the time. So 28 ppm if you're still at 400 for CYA and haven't drained any yet. That shouldn't take an unreasonable amount of chlorine and would keep your pool sanitary for use.

You'll want to test each day and add more chlorine to come back to 28 or whatever new target you've set by lowering CYA.
 
If the water is still clear and the pH is in range between 7.2 - 7.8, go ahead and swim.

It would be optimum to use liquid chlorine to achieve FC at 7% of whatever your CYA is at the time. So 28 ppm if you're still at 400 for CYA and haven't drained any yet. That shouldn't take an unreasonable amount of chlorine and would keep your pool sanitary for use.

You'll want to test each day and add more chlorine to come back to 28 or whatever new target you've set by lowering CYA.
Thank you so much! You guys are great. I’ll head and buy some bleach today!
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.