IC60 High Salt flashing, salt level good

[BKennedy]

Hi everyone!

I am having some issues with my IC60. Pool stopped producing chlorine and went green fast. I did a green to clean, I know there’s probably a better way. I got the pool looking somewhat better, but I still don’t think it’s producing chlorine. I added 4 lbs of cal-hypo shock last night, 12 pounds total over the last 36 hours and today around 2pm the free chlorine level has dropped to 0.5. Total chlorine was at 5.45. Water is very cloudy but not green! CYA is a little low at 37, but should still hold some chlorine.

Problem I’m having with the SWG is the salt light is flashing green, which indicates high salt. I’ve had the water tested 3 times in the past week and the levels are between 3250-3500, so level is not high. I talked with Pentair and they said my flow switch is probably bad. I replaced that last summer, but I suppose it could be. Flow indicates good on my cell, but they said it reads salt level as well as flow and temp. That being said, they told me if the cell reads high salt, it will continue to produce chlorine. I told them it does not appear to be producing any and the only sign I have is high salt, but they said it’s probably still the switch. Any ideas on what the problem could be or what I should try? If the total chlorine is at 5.45 and the free chlorine is at 0.5, does that mean that it is generating chlorine?

Thanks!!!

 

[Mdragger88]

Welcome to tfp

I did a green to clean, I know there’s probably a better way.

There is - The SLAM Process
To do this you need a reliable test kit (Taylor k2006c or TF-100) & some liquid chlorine. As Pool store testing can vary wildly & testing frequently is required.

If you don’t eradicate the algae your swg will not be able to maintain going forward even if it is in optimal working order.

I will let others chime in on diagnosing your cell issues but if it’s producing at all you may see bubbles from the return or be able to catch a sample at the return & confirm it is higher than the rest of the pool water.
A swg will not overcome an algea problem.

 

[BKennedy]

Welcome to tfp

There is - The SLAM Process
To do this you need a reliable test kit (Taylor k2006c or TF-100) & some liquid chlorine. As Pool store testing can vary wildly & testing frequently is required.

If you don’t eradicate the algae your swg will not be able to maintain going forward even if it is in optimal working order.

I will let others chime in on diagnosing your cell issues but if it’s producing at all you may see bubbles from the return or be able to catch a sample at the return & confirm it is higher than the rest of the pool water.
A swg will not overcome an algea problem.

Thanks! I will check out the slam process. It appears the algae has been killed off. It was recommended to use pool first aid to clear up the water. I put that in today. I’m not sure why the free chlorine has dropped to 0.5 and the total chlorine is at 5? Does that mean it’s producing chlorine if it’s still at that level? I’m going to order a test kit tonight. Thanks for the reply!

 

[Mdragger88]

@BKennedy
Your algae isn’t dead - it may have been knocked back by the potions you put in but it will be back. Your lack of fc & highly elevated cc’s are proof of this.
Pool 1st aid is a clarifier- a literal bandaid to mask the problem- all it will do is gum up your filter & add complications to your issue. Clarifiers are rarely recommended here for this reason & even then only certain ones.
Free chlorine (good stuff) + combined chlorine (bad stuff) = Total chlorine
You got alotta bad stuff & the cure is to SLAM—> Shock Level And Maintain.
Please check out some of the articles here
to get a better understanding of your chemistry & what you actually need to take care of your water. Algeacides & clarifiers aren’t on the list.

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

We can help u but you really can’t mix our advice with pool store advice - it will only complicate matters.

 

[BKennedy]

@BKennedy
Your algae isn’t dead - it may have been knocked back by the potions you put in but it will be back. Your lack of fc & highly elevated cc’s are proof of this.
Pool 1st aid is a clarifier- a literal bandaid to mask the problem- all it will do is gum up your filter & add complications to your issue. Clarifiers are rarely recommended here for this reason & even then only certain ones.
Free chlorine (good stuff) + combined chlorine (bad stuff) = Total chlorine
You got alotta bad stuff & the cure is to SLAM—> Shock Level And Maintain.
Please check out some of the articles here
to get a better understanding of your chemistry & what you actually need to take care of your water. Algeacides & clarifiers aren’t on the list.

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

We can help u but you really can’t mix our advice with pool store advice - it will only complicate matters.

Thank you for all the info! Unfortunately, like many, I went by the advice of the local pool store. They were trying to sell me some shock today that will help the two chlorine number to match each other. I held off buying anything else before checking here. So if I do the slam method now, will that help to eliminate the rest of the algae and raise my chlorine? If my bad chlorine is high, is that an indicator that my swg is producing something? I’m just worried now that when I get it back to normal, that it’s going to go to Crud again if I’m not producing chlorine. I’m reading about slam now and going to get some liquid chlorine tomorrow. Thanks for all the info!

 

[Flying Tivo]

Forget about the SWG for now. Your priority 1 is to kill the algae! Follow the SLAM Process to the letter. Make sure your SWG is off. Buy enough liquid chlorine at least a dozen gallons(pool essentials on Walmart. Order you Test Kits Compared ASAP make sure you include the speedstir. Next fill out your signature with your pool info, like mine below, so we can guide you better through this process. We will deal with the SWG later when you get to know what clear water really is. Forgot that you can not really start a slam if you dont have your test kit.

 

[BKennedy]

Forget about the SWG for now. Your priority 1 is to kill the algae! Follow the SLAM Process to the letter. Make sure your SWG is off. Buy enough liquid chlorine at least a dozen gallons(pool essentials on Walmart. Order you Test Kits Compared ASAP make sure you include the speedstir. Next fill out your signature with your pool info, like mine below, so we can guide you better through this process. We will deal with the SWG later when you get to know what clear water really is. Forgot that you can not really start a slam if you dont have your test kit.

Thanks! Looking at the test kits now. Any certain one you would recommend for ease of use? Looks like the Taylor 2006 vs 2006c only difference is size of bottles. Do they both do the same thing? Also, was reading about a ph meter. Are those easier and more accurate? Also, would I need to order the Taylor salt test kit 1766 or does the 2006 come with everything I will need?

 

[wireform]

Go for the TF-100 pro kit which has everything you'll ever want. The speed stirr is in that kit and is an invaluable tool for testing. SWCG's are there to maintain a perfectly balanced water so firstly get the kit ordered from tftestkits.net which will be as fresh as you will ever get. Then test everything down the line on the instruction card. Post the results and we will advise accordingly. Clarifier and the what not will not clear up the water but rather it's the chlorine that does it. In the mean time till the kit arrives get 5 ppm of chlorine into the water daily with the pump on so the swamp doesn't further deteriorate.

 

[BKennedy]

Go for the TF-100 pro kit which has everything you'll ever want. The speed stirr is in that kit and is an invaluable tool for testing. SWCG's are there to maintain a perfectly balanced water so firstly get the kit ordered from tftestkits.net which will be as fresh as you will ever get. Then check everything down the line on the instruction card. Post the results and we will advise accordingly. Clarifier and the what not will not clear up the water but rather it's the chlorine that does it. In the mean time till the kit arrives get 5 ppm of chlorine into the water daily with the pump on so the swamp doesn't further deteriorate.

Thanks! How will I know how to get 5ppm chlorine added daily? Are you talking about free chlorine or combined?

 

[wireform]

Download the poolmath app and set up your up your pool parameters. Per the pool capacity and the chlorine strength chosen you'll be able to input 5ppm to get the amount of chlorine needed. FC (free chlorine) is not the same as CC. FC is the available chlorine for sanitization and CC is cause in effect of organics being consumed by the chlorine. Your CC is elevated due to the algae and will eventually be 0-.5 when the slam is finished.

 

[BKennedy]

Download the poolmath app and set up your up your pool parameters. Per the pool capacity and the chlorine strength chosen you'll be able to input 5ppm to get the amount of chlorine needed. FC (free chlorine) is not the same as CC. FC is the available chlorine for sanitization and CC is cause in effect of organics being consumed by the chlorine. Your CC is elevated due to the algae and will eventually be 0-.5 when the slam is finished.

Thanks so much!

 

[Mdragger88]

Here’s some links for u for now
PoolMath
& when you’re ready to tackle your swg

Pentair Intellichlor ICXX SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[BKennedy]

Ok, so I tried the flow switch, per Pentairs recommendation, and it’s still flashing “high salt”. My salt level is at 3250, so definitely not high. I still don’t think it’s making chlorine, as my chlorine level drops to almost nothing each each day.

 

[Mdragger88]

An Algae problem will easily overcome a well operating swg. It grows faster than the swg can produce fc.
Deal with the algae & then trouble shoot the cell.
Is there a dealer you can take it to have it tested?

 

[BKennedy]

An Algae problem will easily overcome a well operating swg. It grows faster than the swg can produce fc.
Deal with the algae & then trouble shoot the cell.
Is there a dealer you can take it to have it tested?

No dealer can test it that I know of. To me the algae seems dead. I need to vacuum it to waste as it’s all just dead looking junk on the bottom. Pool is now longer green, but the level won’t stay up, even with me shocking it. What gets me is that the salt cell keeps flashing that the salt level is high. It’s recommended to be 3600, and my level is 3250. I tried new flow switch, which also measures salinity and it still flashes high. I shocked again this evening. I’m thinking there is something internally wrong with the cell. I am so stumped at this point.

 

[wireform]

You need that k-1766 salinity kit to know what level you actually have. I would recommend a OCLT with SWCG off to detect if there is indeed algae burning up the FC.

 

[Mdragger88]

Until you have a reliable kit in hand to reach & maintain slam level fc for your cya you’re flying blind - what are you using to “shock” the pool ? Amounts?
To be sure algea is eradicated follow the SLAM Process until ALL 3 end of slam criteria are met.
You are done when-
*You have Crystal Clear water - no debris dead or alive
* Overnight free chlorine loss of 1ppm or less
* CC’s of .5 or lower

 

[BKennedy]

You need that k-1766 salinity kit to know what level you actually have. I would recommend a OCLT with SWCG off to detect if ther is indeed algae burning up the FC.

What is OCLT?

 

[Mdragger88]

Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

 

[BKennedy]

Until you have a reliable kit in hand to reach & maintain slam level fc for your cya you’re flying blind - what are you using to “shock” the pool ? Amounts?
To be sure algea is eradicated follow the SLAM Process until ALL 3 end of slam criteria are met.
You are done when-
*You have Crystal Clear water - no debris dead or alive
* Overnight free chlorine loss of 1ppm or less
* CC’s of .5 or lower

I have been using cal-hypo shock. I added 12 pounds over a period of 36 hours and the next day my chlorine level was at 0.45. I don’t see any green but instead looks like a bunch of dead organic matter in the bottom. My vacuum is busted, so I had to order a new one. My robotic Polaris cleaner just clouds up the water right now. If I switch to liquid chlorine to slam it, do I select bleach on the app? I didn’t see an option for liquid chlorine. Here is my last pool test from yesterday.