Wow, Am I Totally Confused

[aussieta]

pool math is generic for the whole of the world
in most parts of aizona ch is very high
in florida lots of rainfall with low ch, constantly having to drain water
you will eventually learn your pool in your area

 

[Mdragger88]

When i set up my “pretend pool” in pool math just like yours it gives me a ch recommendation of 300 Which requires only 11 lbs. of calcium chloride.
You can change the target levels to what you want in each parameter’s card (there are suggestions at the top but as stated they are generic & your pool won’t explode if u are off a little)
Also be sure csi tracking is switched on in the settings. This will allow it to also show a csi card. You will need to input the water temp for it to calculate your csi which takes multiple parameters into consideration- so long as csi is showing as good you’ll be fine. Especially since your ch is likely to increase overtime without any intervention from u.
To break it down-
Fc is priority #1 & minimum for your cya should not be skirted FC/CYA Levels
Ph is priority #2 - keep it in the 7’s
The rest can be tinkered with & have broader acceptable ranges

 

[Newdude]

So the PoolMath is not a strict follow the suggestion thing

Well yes and no. Follow it unless there is another reason that overrides it. In this case, that it picks a prefered 7.X PH as better than 7.Y. Salt pools tend to like the higher 7s, and LC pools tend to like the lower range, so both have an expected 'ideal' value in pool math, but if yours likes different, and the CSI is ok, its all good.

Or that your high CH fill water will raise your CH for you. You will be evaporating soon enough so it might be better to wait or add less. I've read alot about the struggles out west by many members here but its all theory to an east coaster like me so lets ask @mknauss if you should add per pool math, or half, or none ?

 

[mknauss]

Do NOT add any form of calcium. Your signature does not indicate you are using softened water for make up water so you will be more than doubling your CH level in the next 6 months from evaporation. For now, let pH and TA ride a bit high to compensate for your current CH level.

Remember, the Poolmath app simply selects a mid point of the range for each parameter. You must determine what is best for your pool and conditions. Change the Goal level based on your knowledge.

 

[BuckeyeMan]

Let pool guy go 1/1/2022 to try this approach, but so confused. Been at it 2 months and still don't make much sense. Pool is crystal clear, but the water is only 57, so not too much worried about getting algae. Just a quick recap since 1/1/. I drained and refilled pool, because CH was over 1000. Since then, i have been told don't use the 3" chlorine tabs, since I have the deck chlorinator basket, so I haven't. Last week CH was around 300, today it checked out at 425.
Todays readings are FC=2.5
CC=0
PH=7.6
CH=425
TA=80
CYA=20
Temp=57 degrees
With those readings, PoolMath says add: 10 0z Bleach, 40 oz dry stabilizer, and 60 oz of Calcium Chloride, (even though it says target 450)

 

[wireform]

For now I'd add CYA to get you to 40 and then as per poolmath get the right amount of liquid chlorine in. I don't see how the CH went up if you haven't added any but definitely leave that one alone as it'll move up over the next few months unless your make up water is from a softener.

 

[Mdragger88]

Have u added unsoftened water to the pool? If so it likely added some ch.
its also possible you’re off a drop or 2 on your testing either now or in the past (which isn’t the end of the world so long as you’re keeping general track of ch)
2 weeks ago u have it logged as 375.
Is this what you’re referring to that doesn’t make sense?
All of the poolmath recommendations add up based on your volume of 16130 gal listed in your poolmath log (although your signature has 16310)
*Poolmath wants u to add enough bleach to reach 3ppm which is the low target for your current cya of 20.
*Poolmath wants you to add enough cya to get to 40ppm which is within Recommended Levels
* Poolmath wants u to add enough ch to reach your target of 450 - you can change this & all the targets & poolmath will change the doses accordingly. It is simply a calculator that has recommendations based on your input/settings.
As @wireform said - leave the ch alone,
add the cya then chlorinate accordingly- you can & should change the fc target in poolmath to the high side (for a cya of 40 that would be 7ppm) FC/CYA Levels this way you will likely have several days between chlorine additions during the colder weather. No need to skirt the minimum all the time as that is a risky game.

 

[BuckeyeMan]

Let pool guy go 1/1/2022 to try this approach, but so confused. Been at it 2 months and still don't make much sense. Pool is crystal clear, but the water is only 57, so not too much worried about getting algae. Just a quick recap since 1/1/. I drained and refilled pool, because CH was over 1000. Since then, i have been told don't use the 3" chlorine tabs, since I have the deck chlorinator basket, so I haven't. Last week CH was around 300, today it checked out at 425.
Todays readings are FC=2.5
CC=0
PH=7.6
CH=425
TA=80
CYA=20
Temp=57 degrees
With those readings, PoolMath says add: 10 0z Bleach, 40 oz dry stabilizer, and 60 oz of Calcium Chloride, (even though it says target 450)

 

[BuckeyeMan]

Have u added unsoftened water to the pool? If so it likely added some ch.
its also possible you’re off a drop or 2 on your testing either now or in the past (which isn’t the end of the world so long as you’re keeping general track of ch)
2 weeks ago u have it logged as 375.
Is this what you’re referring to that doesn’t make sense?
All of the poolmath recommendations add up based on your volume of 16130 gal listed in your poolmath log (although your signature has 16310)
*Poolmath wants u to add enough bleach to reach 3ppm which is the low target for your current cya of 20.
*Poolmath wants you to add enough cya to get to 40ppm which is within Recommended Levels
* Poolmath wants u to add enough ch to reach your target of 450 - you can change this & all the targets & poolmath will change the doses accordingly. It is simply a calculator that has recommendations based on your input/settings.
As @wireform said - leave the ch alone,
add the cya then chlorinate accordingly- you can & should change the fc target in poolmath to the high side (for a cya of 40 that would be 7ppm) FC/CYA Levels this way you will likely have several days between chlorine additions during the colder weather. No need to skirt the minimum all the time as that is a risky game.

No, softwater is not added to the pool. I just checked my signature in TFP, and it says 16,130. For some reason I cannot change the FC setting in PoolMath. When I do, it just changes back to 3.

 

[setsailsoon]

Buck,

Please test your fill water. I think this will help you understand why the CH is rising. Most people will want to add enough of any chemical to get to the ideal level. But in your case since calcium is so high in your area water we recommend you get to the minimum level for acceptable water balance. This still protects your finish. Water analysis varies a lot across the country so there have to be some minor variations in how we implement TFP water balance recommendations. In my opinion, it's still by far the best approach for taking care of your pool since it's very low cost using generic chemicals and simple to do. If I were you I would try to add softened water to your pool when fill is needed. Do you have a softener on the house?

For all pools I would strongly consider a salt pool at some time in your future. Looks like chlorine costs (tablet and liquid) are going through the roof and moving faster than swg costs. So there's probably a better payout now than previously. Salt makes pool maintenance much easier and most people, especially ladies like the feel better.

I hope this is helpful.

Chris

 

[Texas Splash]

I would increase the FC and CYA as recommended for now. Just keep those balanced as noted on the FC/CYA Levels and you should do well. No need to increase the CH at all.

Last week CH was around 300, today it checked out at 425.

That is odd though. Have you used any cal-hypo products that would add calcium? If not, there must be a testing error. The CH won't just jump like that on its own. Do you use a speedstir for your testing?

 

[Newdude]

Also like to add you need to warm up the sample to room temp as the turbidity of the water takes longer to cloud up when cold so most people get a lower than actual reading. None of the other tests are affected enough from temp to matter.

Been at it 2 months and still don't make much sense.

The best way to cement anything into your brain is to screw it up. When you , your brain takes a screenshot and it's stored in the cloud forever.

Pool is crystal clear,

You may be a victim of your own success here if you haven't been making minor oooooops's, so it will take a bit longer to sink in. But we got you. Big fat TFP training wheels so you don't fall. You got this Buck !!!

 

[BuckeyeMan]

Buck,

Please test your fill water. I think this will help you understand why the CH is rising. Most people will want to add enough of any chemical to get to the ideal level. But in your case since calcium is so high in your area water we recommend you get to the minimum level for acceptable water balance. This still protects your finish. Water analysis varies a lot across the country so there have to be some minor variations in how we implement TFP water balance recommendations. In my opinion, it's still by far the best approach for taking care of your pool since it's very low cost using generic chemicals and simple to do. If I were you I would try to add softened water to your pool when fill is needed. Do you have a softener on the house?

For all pools I would strongly consider a salt pool at some time in your future. Looks like chlorine costs (tablet and liquid) are going through the roof and moving faster than swg costs. So there's probably a better payout now than previously. Salt makes pool maintenance much easier and most people, especially ladies like the feel better.

I hope this is helpful.

Chris

It has auto water fill, and no it is not soft water. I do have water softner in house, clear in front, in garage. We snowbird, so come May we will be heading back to Michigan, and will get the pool guy back till December. They just put the 3" tabs in the deck chlorinator basket, and that's pretty much every week. There's no way to get soft water in pool when it is low.

 

[wireform]

Best would be to have auto fill hooked via water softener so any evaporation causing water additions would not add to a CH rise. As water gets evaporated it leaves behind the CH and eventually leads to very elevated numbers such as you have now.

 

[BuckeyeMan]

Wow, I have been at this for 3 months using this method, but still not getting the idea. Everything is always out of whack according to TFP , and seem to be adding 1/2 gallon of liquid chlorine about every day, and not even summer yet. Other thing I am wondering, is this all for not, seeing that I am trying to do this myself with liquid instead of 3" tabs, because I was told on here not to use them, and when I leave Arizona here the beginning of May to go back to Michigan till end of December, pool guy will be resuming taking care of it till I get back, and he uses the the deck chlorinator, and the 3" tabs anyway.

 

[wireform]

Buckeye
Well sorry to hear but looking at your poolmath you have a low CYA and you can't measure 20. You need at least 40 CYA to be holding the FC through the day. I'd suggest you do a OCLT tonight to see if you have an algae problem brewing because your FC the last 2 days has been "1" which is too low.

 

[BuckeyeMan]

Buckeye
Well sorry to hear but looking at your poolmath you have a low CYA and you can't measure 20. You need at least 40 CYA to be holding the FC through the day. I'd suggest you do a OCLT tonight to see if you have an algae problem brewing because your FC the last 2 days has been "1" which is too low.

What is an OCLT?

 

[Bperry]

Wow, I have been at this for 3 months using this method, but still not getting the idea. Everything is always out of whack according to TFP , and seem to be adding 1/2 gallon of liquid chlorine about every day, and not even summer yet. Other thing I am wondering, is this all for not, seeing that I am trying to do this myself with liquid instead of 3" tabs, because I was told on here not to use them, and when I leave Arizona here the beginning of May to go back to Michigan till end of December, pool guy will be resuming taking care of it till I get back, and he uses the the deck chlorinator, and the 3" tabs anyway.

Hey Buckeye, the chlorine is something that gets used each day so you do need to add it every day. Its not something you add and then it stays in there. The bacteria and sunlight degrades it.

The issue with the tabs is going to be over time, those add both chlorine (which is good, but degrades) and stabilizer (CYA which doesn't degrade). Once the stabilizer builds up over time, the chlorine can't do its job anymore. To fix that, you have to drain all the water again. You can instruct your pool guy to use liquid chlorine instead but he'd need to come every week, probably twice a week.

The calcium does a similar thing. It will build up over time if you live in an area with hard water.

 

[MITBeta]

Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

 

[setsailsoon]

Buck,

It's almost impossible to provide advice w test logs only posted days or weeks apart. Here's what I think you need to do to get this pool under control:

• Perform your tests then add chemicals as shown in pool math
• With your pump running for about an hour, test again.
• Free chlorine and pH should be your focus until you get your cya level raised. You will have difficulty maintaining free chlorine until you get your cya level up. Cya is like sunscreen for chlorine. You need a minimum amount to keep the Sun from chewing up all of your chlorine. But if your cya gets too high starts to inhibit the free chlorine from working effectively. So you need the range recommended by tfp. As far as I can tell you have not ever achieved this. You will find that cya levels do not change that frequently. During Peak summer months you may need to check once every two weeks or so. It looks to me that your cya level has never been adequate and you will fight a losing battle until you get your cya level right.
• You will need to monitor your levels and make chemical additions much more frequently for a week or two until you get to know your pool. Once you get the hang of it you will be able to reduce chlorine and acid addition frequency to about every one or two days. For now I would test every morning, then make Chemical additions and then test again in an hour to be sure you got it right. If not make some additional adjustments and test again an hour later. Use this approach until you are confident that you achieve tfp ranges
• Tfp methods allow you too easily maintain your pool but they require a little attention at least every day or two. Once you get everything lined out you may be able to go every two to three days but you will not do better than this especially during the summer unless you convert to salt or have a chlorine pump and possibly an automatic pH control.
• Your pH is swinging way too much. I think you are trying to test weekly or less and make big changes. That approach will not work. You should not be making large pH changes greater than 0.4 pH units.

I hope this is helpful.

Chris