As I understand it adds 6 ppm to every 1 lb of dry acid (3 1/2 lbs moved my ph from 8-7.2). It's suppose to rain now so that will take care of the areation part, just hoping the TA comes down more will check tomorrow then it's on to adding the borates (Pro Team Supreme). If you can control your ph/TA you shouldn't have to add a lot to the pool or often which is my goal right now to get the numbers in balance and stabalize (calcium will probably be the bigger TDS problem which Muriatic Acid does not control). I don't think anyone really thinks they won't have to drain some water once in a while (my preference is to filter TDS and not expose my plaster without water in it). In AZ we have several companys with large filtering equipment that offers an alternative to draining pools using osmosis cost less to considering you don't have a big water bill).The dry acid adds sulphates to the water which build up over time. MA does not. I just wanted you to be aware of that in case you weren’t.
General recommendation is to just bring the pH down into the 7’a and let the TA alone. It will manage itself as you manage the pH.
I'm just trying to understand how you keep your ph/ta at a certain ppm even with borates when the fill water will always be higher at 7.8 ph and 120 TA when 7.6 and 110 along with the rest balances CSI (at temps of 65 anyway) and the other doesn't ?
I understand some think I shouldn't sweat the numbers to much, but balancing CSI is the thing that makes it necessary. If anyone can answer my question above, will borates alter the fill water so it is in balance with numbers before the fill? How does this work?
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