New water and balanced for a day - drives me crazy
- Thread starter Drd
- Start date
Thank you for clearing that up. So I didn't put in 99.5 borates in my pool water after all, this product has some in it but it's 50% something else I don't have a clue what it is now, but marketed the same. I have to amend my earlier statement my CYA has returned to what it was before. Not sure what cause this reaction with the high CYA, but it wasn't permenant thank goodness. I do have to say, the water is like looking through glass it's super clear and sparkely. My PH did rise a little again 7.6 now but TA is the same at 110 with temp at 60 degrees CSI is -17 (seems higher ph 7.8 produces better CSI results -1 to my surprise ). I'm not happy Pool Geeks wants to keep 50% of the ingredients in Pro Team Supreme Plus secret from the consumer as we should have a right to know what's in any product little lone a chemical based one with warnings.
BTW, Taylor no longer makes a Sulfate test kit, I just learned from their CEO who is very nice and surprisingly accessable. He wanted to know where I got the 300 ppm sulfates as a measure not to exceed. I hope to find out more on the sulfates (dry acid) and if the treatment I just put my pool which tested (Taylor) 30 ppm borates will lower my demand for acid adjustments or what to do next. I do believe strongly proper maintenance and chemicals is key to a plaster (pebble tech too) longevity and safe enjoyment, but it definitly takes investing the time and learning everything you can. I appreciate those that take the time to share their knowledge to help others, but sometimes it could be a little less confrontational if there is a disagreement. If I learn anything more helpful on this subject I'll be sure to post it.
BTW, Taylor no longer makes a Sulfate test kit, I just learned from their CEO who is very nice and surprisingly accessable. He wanted to know where I got the 300 ppm sulfates as a measure not to exceed. I hope to find out more on the sulfates (dry acid) and if the treatment I just put my pool which tested (Taylor) 30 ppm borates will lower my demand for acid adjustments or what to do next. I do believe strongly proper maintenance and chemicals is key to a plaster (pebble tech too) longevity and safe enjoyment, but it definitly takes investing the time and learning everything you can. I appreciate those that take the time to share their knowledge to help others, but sometimes it could be a little less confrontational if there is a disagreement. If I learn anything more helpful on this subject I'll be sure to post it.
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We all agree that we are here to discuss the TFP method. We are not here to discuss other methods, or even worse, mix and match several of them piece meal.
We believe in scientific proof and the real world experience of our vast membership.
Is that another curt message from the membership? Muratic acid vs dry acid is not other methods or a mix and match they are accepted in the pool industry and sold in pool stores everywhere. I can't use muriatic acid because I have a lung condition period, so I am glad there is other methods to lower PH. I posted a question which was pretty much ignored and only those things I mentioned that you don't agree with not that they are wrong but not the way you would do it so this becomes confrontational dialog. This conversation on this forum has gotten disappointing.
Your reasons against liquid are real for you. Wanting to use a different product was not the problem. Feel free to mix and match acids which accomplish the same thing. The dry acid is not our choice, but it might be your best choice.
Using outdated government regulations that don't understand or value the chemistry behind them, or pool store methodology, or even worse..... a random bloggers opinion, is the mix and match I was referring to. Pick one and stick with it.
Please don't talk down to me or make me look stupid I resent that and it doesn't present this forum as a friendly place to come to dicuss you pool issues if you are going to be ridiculed. Their all acids for peats sake, that's how they lower or control PH, this was not a mix and match scenerio as you have stated inaccurately. The pool calculators include all three of these chemicals on it so they are not something pulled out of thin air or I'm a mad scientist or something. Please be respectul to other members and agree to disagree. Thank you.Your reasons against liquid are real for you. Wanting to use a different product was not the problem. Feel free to mix and match acids which accomplish the same thing. The dry acid is not our choice, but it might be your best choice.
Using outdated government regulations that don't understand or value the chemistry behind them, or pool store methodology, or even worse..... a random bloggers opinion, is the mix and match I was referring to. Pick one and stick with it.
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Is there something specific that was said that was disrespectful? I don’t see any but maybe I missed it. People here are genuinely trying to help but your reaction is more harsh than any of the replies posted here. I think I can get to your question at the end.
The mix and match comment is accurate, but maybe not obvious why. TFP exists solely to promote a specific methodology of pool care. It’s not a generic pool advice website. The mods protect the methodology pretty closely by making sure the TFP method doesn’t get confused with other advice. That’s all it is, it’s not talking down to anyone. By using some advice from TFP and reading advice from another website and trying to do both is “mixing and matching”. You are free to do whatever you want to your pool but the folks here just want to make sure you get good results and protect the “brand” and have seen countless other get bad results by trying to combine advice from different places.
TFP method can be broke down into two rules:
1. Test your own water with a recommended test kit. Not anywhere else.
2. Don’t put anything in the water that it doesn’t need.
That said, adding sulphates to the water with dry acid is not advised by TFP, because it breaks rule #2. Nothing more simple than that. If you have a special need that forces you away from the muriatic acid, that’s fine as long as you know the downsides of dry acid and can accept them. The folks just want you to be aware of the downsides.
Your original question about how to balance the water when your fill water is high in TA, is that you really just need to monitor it and keep lowering the pH when it gets high, and it will get high faster over time with higher TA. It will never be 100% stable. Borates can slow down how fast it rises but will require more acid to lower the pH when it does rise. Over time the amount of acid required is the same. It’s a pick your poison kind of trade off.