New pool owner!!

[PoolMama1989]

Welcome PoolMama !!!

You have to start over here if you choose to do so. There is just too much nonsense out there being perpetuated. Check the water clarity link that PoolStored posted.

But please don't just get the point on page 2. Scroll the whole thread. They just keep.getting better and each and every one is a regular person, just like you. We can put any of those pools up against any brochure you can find.

And we can have you adding yours to the thread in no time. See the pics now. We will earn your trust as we go. I promise.

I did a quick review. If you use both methods (swim univ (SU) and TFP) you will be confused. I think you should choose one method or the other.

As an example, SU recommends a FC of 1-3. The amount of FC to be sanitizing (kills stuff) is dependent on CYA levels. More CYA, more FC is required. SU talks nothing about CYA or its impact on FC requirements. With CYA of 40 and FC of 1-3, you will get algae. Ask me how I know.

Get the pool math app. It will help you.

Just my .02

Thank you! I downloaded the pool math app. Looking forward to spending less money…and having a clean and clear pool!

 

[PoolMama1989]

Welcome PoolMama !!!

You have to start over here if you choose to do so. There is just too much nonsense out there being perpetuated. Check the water clarity link that PoolStored posted.

But please don't just get the point on page 2. Scroll the whole thread. They just keep.getting better and each and every one is a regular person, just like you. We can put any of those pools up against any brochure you can find.

And we can have you adding yours to the thread in no time. See the pics now. We will earn your trust as we go. I promise.

This is how clear my water is now! Hopefully I can keep it this way!!

 

[PoolMama1989]

This is how clear my water is now! Hopefully I can keep it this way!!

 

[PoolStored]

This is how clear my water is now! Hopefully I can keep it this way!!

Nice! Let's keep it there....

 

[Newdude]

That's a heckuva start. We will happily guide you and you'll be a pro in no time.

Ask away at any time. The worst thing you can do is overreact and cause new problems. It's better for all of us to only have one thing to fix. We will explain it and tell you the what and the why. More than once if needed. You're in great hands.

 

[PoolMama1989]

That's a heckuva start. We will happily guide you and you'll be a pro in no time.

Ask away at any time. The worst thing you can do is overreact and cause new problems. It's better for all of us to only have one thing to fix. We will explain it and tell you the what and the why. More than once if needed. You're in great hands.

Thank you so much!!

 

[MITBeta]

FC was at 5ppm but I still had a reading of 0.4 for CC.

It looks like you're using a 25ml sample for testing. If so, you can follow the directions in your Taylor kit for a 10ml test instead, where each drop equal 0.5ppm instead of 0.2. This will save on reagent.

 

[PoolMama1989]

It looks like you're using a 25ml sample for testing. If so, you can follow the directions in your Taylor kit for a 10ml test instead, where each drop equal 0.5ppm instead of 0.2. This will save on reagent.

I was! Thank you…this is very helpful!!

 

[PoolMama1989]

Okay so I have a few questions. I am currently on the pool frog system. I am going to switch over to the BBB method. I will not be replacing the mineral pac in the frog leap. I have about 8 of the torpedo pacs. Should I just use them when my CYA levels drop? What about this bucket of Cal Hypo…I’m guessing that can be used to sanitize the pool as well? We have only had the pool for 3 months…I test the water almost daily now with my K 2006 Taylor kit. I’m just trying to learn my pool. Then I’m sure I can test less often. We are not currently swimming in the pool. Any advice you have is very much appreciated. I posted a picture of my test results from today.

 

[PoolMama1989]

Nice! Let's keep it there....

I added a question at the bottom of this thread. When you have time could you offer your advice. I have a huge bucket of Cal Hypo. I have read thru all of the pool school info. I guessing if I use that in my pool to just keep an eye on my calcium hardness levels?

 

[PoolStored]

Okay so I have a few questions. I am currently on the pool frog system. I am going to switch over to the BBB method. I will not be replacing the mineral pac in the frog leap. I have about 8 of the torpedo pacs. Should I just use them when my CYA levels drop?

Sure, no problems! Especially when you go on vacation!

What about this bucket of Cal Hypo…I’m guessing that can be used to sanitize the pool as well? We have only had the pool for 3 months…I test the water almost daily now with my K 2006 Taylor kit. I’m just trying to learn my pool. Then I’m sure I can test less often. We are not currently swimming in the pool. Any advice you have is very much appreciated. I posted a picture of my test results from today.

CH is generally not a concern in a vinyl pool (CH in vinyl pool - why the minimum target?). Cal-hypo costs more and it adds CH. Eventually your CH level will get too high and that can cause scaling in a PLASTER pool, which can be really expensive to fix. If your CH level is low enough and you don't mind spending money then there is nothing wrong with cal-hypo (Why do you never recommend Cal-Hypo?). Your CH is 250. Many vinyl liners recommend between 200-250. I would leave it there and not use the Cal-Hypo.

As to the testing, yes you will get less obsessive over time. I test FC daily. I test pH, TA weekly. I test CYA 1-2x month in hot summer months I can lose 10-20ppm in a month when lots of sun, shoulder months maybe 1x every 2 months. I never worry about/test CH, maybe 1-2x a year. I don't test CC.

 

[PoolMama1989]

Sure, no problems! Especially when you go on vacation!

CH is generally not a concern in a vinyl pool (CH in vinyl pool - why the minimum target?). Cal-hypo costs more and it adds CH. Eventually your CH level will get too high and that can cause scaling in a PLASTER pool, which can be really expensive to fix. If your CH level is low enough and you don't mind spending money then there is nothing wrong with cal-hypo (Why do you never recommend Cal-Hypo?). Your CH is 250. Many vinyl liners recommend between 200-250. I would leave it there and not use the Cal-Hypo.

As to the testing, yes you will get less obsessive over time. I test FC daily. I test pH, TA weekly. I test CYA 1-2x month in hot summer months I can lose 10-20ppm in a month when lots of sun, shoulder months maybe 1x every 2 months. I never worry about/test CH, maybe 1-2x a year. I don't test CC.

Thank you! I will give both of those a read!

 

[PoolStored]

Your test results are excellent.

The search function is REALLY good on TFP. If you type in any topic, you can typically find your answer.

 

[PoolMama1989]

Your test results are excellent.

The search function is REALLY good on TFP. If you type in any topic, you can typically find your answer.

Okay. I will be sure to utilize that from now on. Thanks

 

[PoolStored]

To be clear, I wasn't saying don't ask for help. Please do, we will help. Sometimes I go back to ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and Recommended Levels. Sometimes I search, especially if I want an answer quickly. I ask all the time. Tested my pool this week, 0 TA. I was baffled. Searched and searched. Finally asked. Apparently over winter the snow and rain can sit on the top of the pool water, stratified. I only tested water from the top. Learn something new every day.

 

[Newdude]

*sometimes it's just nice chat with humans too.

 

[PoolMama1989]

To be clear, I wasn't saying don't ask for help. Please do, we will help. Sometimes I go back to ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and Recommended Levels. Sometimes I search, especially if I want an answer quickly. I ask all the time. Tested my pool this week, 0 TA. I was baffled. Searched and searched. Finally asked. Apparently over winter the snow and rain can sit on the top of the pool water, stratified. I only tested water from the top. Learn something new every day.

I didn’t read it that way!! No worries

 

[proavia]

I just skimmed this thread and saw you mentioned Chlorox bleach. Do NOT use Chlorox branded bleach as it contains "Chloromax Technology", which is added polymers in the bleach. This can cause issues. In addition to the additives listed in a previous response, be sure that NO polymers or any other additives are listed in any of the laundry isle type bleach you may find. You can usually find Pool Essentials chlorinating liquid at Walmart and sometimes Lowes. This is 10% hypochlorite (10% bleach) with no additives. Also check local pool stores for prices on liquid bleach.

This business may also be a local source for liquid chorine/bleach:

Services - Savannah Brush and Chemical

savannahbrush.com

Always look for the bleach percentage on the bottle - along with the date code. You can usually find 6% (or a little higher) bleach and 10% or 12.5% liquid chlorine. The higher the percentage, the less you have to use for the same outcome.

We don't use the term "BBB" anymore. It's now the TFP Method of Pool Care.
"BBB" referred to Bleach, Baking Soda and Borax. Chances are you will only be using the Bleach regularly.

 

[PoolMama1989]

To be clear, I wasn't saying don't ask for help. Please do, we will help. Sometimes I go back to ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and Recommended Levels. Sometimes I search, especially if I want an answer quickly. I ask all the time. Tested my pool this week, 0 TA. I was baffled. Searched and searched. Finally asked. Apparently over winter the snow and rain can sit on the top of the pool water, stratified. I only tested water from the top. Learn something new every day.

I didn’t read it that way!! No worries

I just skimmed this thread and saw you mentioned Chlorox bleach. Do NOT use Chlorox branded bleach as it contains "Chloromax Technology", which is added polymers in the bleach. This can cause issues. In addition to the additives listed in a previous response, be sure that NO polymers or any other additives are listed in any of the laundry isle type bleach you may find. You can usually find Pool Essentials chlorinating liquid at Walmart and sometimes Lowes. This is 10% hypochlorite (10% bleach) with no additives. Also check local pool stores for prices on liquid bleach.

This business may also be a local source for liquid chorine/bleach:

Services - Savannah Brush and Chemical

savannahbrush.com

Always look for the bleach percentage on the bottle - along with the date code. You can usually find 6% (or a little higher) bleach and 10% or 12.5% liquid chlorine. The higher the percentage, the less you have to use for the same outcome.

We don't use the term "BBB" anymore. It's now the TFP Method of Pool Care.
"BBB" referred to Bleach, Baking Soda and Borax. Chances are you will only be using the Bleach regularly

I just skimmed this thread and saw you mentioned Chlorox bleach. Do NOT use Chlorox branded bleach as it contains "Chloromax Technology", which is added polymers in the bleach. This can cause issues. In addition to the additives listed in a previous response, be sure that NO polymers or any other additives are listed in any of the laundry isle type bleach you may find. You can usually find Pool Essentials chlorinating liquid at Walmart and sometimes Lowes. This is 10% hypochlorite (10% bleach) with no additives. Also check local pool stores for prices on liquid bleach.

This business may also be a local source for liquid chorine/bleach:

Services - Savannah Brush and Chemical

savannahbrush.com

Always look for the bleach percentage on the bottle - along with the date code. You can usually find 6% (or a little higher) bleach and 10% or 12.5% liquid chlorine. The higher the percentage, the less you have to use for the same outcome.

We don't use the term "BBB" anymore. It's now the TFP Method of Pool Care.
"BBB" referred to Bleach, Baking Soda and Borax. Chances are you will only be using the Bleach regularly.

Okay.

 

[kimkats]

Hi Pool Mama! You are doing an awesome job already!!! The only thing I will add is to take the frog pack all the way out to keep the minerals in it out of the pool.

Kim