Pool green for over a year.

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EDTA sequestrants tend to break down more quickly from chlorine, to the point where you can even notice an increased chlorine demand having them in your pool and need to use larger maintenance doses.
 
JamesW said:
Not much can be done about bromide other than trying to dilute it over time.

I would switch to a SWG so that it can keep a continuous amount of bromine/chlorine in the water and it will likely work as long as you can keep a level of 1 to 3 and pass an OCLT.

If the amount of bromide begins to get really low, you will see a gradual increase in the steady state equilibrium amount of chlorine/bromine.

For example, if the bromine is steady at 2.5 ppm for weeks at a specific SWG output, and the level begins to go to 3.0, 3.5, 4.0 etc. it's likely that the bromide is almost gone.

Keep the CYA at about 60 once the SLAM is complete and you begin regular operation.
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Her normal operation was adding a cup of powdered chlorine a day. She's going to want to finish using up that powder before going to the liquid. Which I think would be about 2.5 gal once a week. That's my guestimate since I put about 1.25 gal in my 14k gallon pool.
 
Lois added 2 gallons of 12.5% Friday & Saturday night, 4 gallons total.
This afternoon's test results:
PH = 7.5
FC = 1.0
CC = 3.5
TA = 70
CH = 500
CYA wasn't tested

Back story - My 25 year old Hayward EC-75 started dripping through the lid about 6 weeks ago. About 2 weeks ago I found a 4 year old Hayward EC-75 on Craigslist & bought it.

Today I moved Lois' sand filter out of the way & installed my old filter. Started it up & everything looked good, same old drip as before. The only difference was the filter pressure was 15 vs 10 with my pump. Unfortunately after about 20 minutes the drip turned into a stream. I added 3 more gallons of 12.5% & let it circulate for a while before turning off the pump. I brought the lid home, cleaned the area inside the lid that's leaking. I then poured in a hefty amount of quickset epoxy. Pic below. For extra insurance I'm going to add a layer of silicone. Tomorrow I'll put the cover on & see how it goes.IMG_2818.JPG
 
PH went from 6.8 to 7.5. That's very close to where it should been after adding 1 gallon of muriatic acid. Hopefully that means ammonia won't be a problem.
TA went from 60 to 70 - that's just a 1 drop difference.

Thanks for the warning on the filter. I'll be very careful.
 
Monday's belated update.
Put the lid back on & didn't have any leaks. Went for a short hike at Zoar Valley & came back a few hours later. Filter pressure went from 15 to 25 in that short period of time. Found out that the 25 year old gasket leaks at that pressure. Cleaned & recharged the filter and had Lois turn off the pump in the evening. She's been adding three gallons of chlorine every evening.

Tuesday update.
Turned the filter on and pressure quickly went to 20+. Bumped the filter and tried vacuuming the deep end but the pressure rose too high after vacuuming only 10 square feet. Seems to be a lot of muck on the bottom that's too fine for the leaf net to catch. Cleaned & recharged filter & pressure doesn't seem to be rising as fast. Was able to run the filter 4 hours & only bumped it a couple times. Lois is going to bump it a couple more times before turning off this evening. Removed all the sand from her filter and thought it looked fairly clean. Placed about 6 inches of the sand in a five gallon bucket, added water, stirred it with my hand and found out the sand is very dirty. Not sure how to get 300 lbs of sand clean. Added 2 gallons of chlorine at 4 pm & Lois will add 3 more this evening. Here's todays testing before adding chlorine:
PH - 7.5
FC - 1.0
CC - 2.5IMG_0726.JPG
 
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Mike1162 said:
Not sure how to get 300 lbs of sand clean.
Click to expand...

Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter

This post will walk you through the anatomy of a sand filter, and then provide a video at the end for how to deep clean your sand filter. The filter used in the photos and videos is a Hayward S180T top mount sand filter. The images are of a similar filter. Obviously not all filters are...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 

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This filter has 15 bolts holding the lid onto the body. The return is on the lid so there is very little space for pressurized air to accumulate. I believe most of the exploding filters we hear about have lots of room for pressurized air and have a one piece clamp holding the lid to body. I've been going over in the morning & vacuuming a little bit of the deep end while watching the water from the returns. When I see the water flow is reduced I turn off the filter & clean it. At that point the pressure is close to 30 lbs & should be the highest the pressure ever gets. So even with all that I just said the extension cord that the pump is plugged into has been moved farther from the filter. BTW I have suggested she get an electrician to wire this up correctly. There's so many things wrong with the power to the pump.
 

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mknauss said:

Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter

This post will walk you through the anatomy of a sand filter, and then provide a video at the end for how to deep clean your sand filter. The filter used in the photos and videos is a Hayward S180T top mount sand filter. The images are of a similar filter. Obviously not all filters are...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
Tried it on a 5 gallon bucket of sand. Works quite well but takes about 15 minutes per bucket.

IMG_0740.JPG
 
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Nachos73 said:
What is that thing with all those "fingers"?
Click to expand...

... Cthulu's filter medium?

Monster Creature GIF by Death Wish Coffee
 
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Mike - you shouldn't need to empty all that sand out of the filter. just stick the hose in there and constantly plunge up and down and move it all around - everything not supposed to be in there should float to the top and drain out the side. You're creating a lot more work than necessary unless I'm missing something
 
Mike1162 said:
This filter has 15 bolts holding the lid onto the body. The return is on the lid so there is very little space for pressurized air to accumulate. I believe most of the exploding filters we hear about have lots of room for pressurized air and have a one piece clamp holding the lid to body. I've been going over in the morning & vacuuming a little bit of the deep end while watching the water from the returns. When I see the water flow is reduced I turn off the filter & clean it. At that point the pressure is close to 30 lbs & should be the highest the pressure ever gets.
Click to expand...
The entire center of the filter lid can come loose and fly off with great force.

I highly recommend that the cracked filter is not pressurized.
 

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