Just got TF-100 Kit and here are my results. Please advise on what i need to add/do to change my levels

There is a choice to be made. As Stored says, do it now and you should open in the spring to a clear pool. Or, wait until spring and hopefully the CYA has not converted to ammonia. As that takes very large amounts of chlorine to clear. All really depends on your cost of water. If water is cheap, do it now. If water is costly, wait until spring and roll the dice.
 
Yes, do it now. The lower CYA will require a lower SLAM level of FC when you close and protect the pool from opening green.

You can get all the chems in order before the close. Plenty of time.
Thanks again for the help! One last question. I am leaving to go out of country for 10 days this Sunday. Should I start the exchange now only to get half of it? Or let it run and my wife turn the water off when it's done? What will be required after the exchange is complete? My wife doesnt know much about the pool or how to keep it up. I'm going to teach her because quite frankly I don't know a lot myself. Should I just wait till I get home to do this? And if you say after the exchange is complete I need to SLAM the pool, I'll need to go get some supplies. Perhaps it's best for me to wait till I return.
 
Wait until you return. Have your wife continue to add some chlorine each day to keep the pool from getting worse.
Thanks so much! I will do just this! Also, I just got off the phone with our water company. 1000 gallons of water here costs $6.47. This water exchange will cost me about the same as a 25lb bucket of cal-hypo at the pool store ($145). Man I wish I knew this at the beginning of summer. And the pool store would have never told me to do this, nor that my CYA levels were too high. They would have just had me feed the beast with their high priced Cal-Hypo. I will never go back.
 
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The lower CYA will require a lower SLAM level of FC when you close and protect the pool from opening green.

There is no requirement to SLAM every pool before closing. If the pool has been algae free for the season then raising the FC to half SLAM level and then using PQ60 as described here works well...

 
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Thanks so much guys. I'll get to it first thing in the am! Quick question. I am going to close the pool here towards the end of September. Is this worth doing now? Will my FC and TA and CH be out of whack when this process is done? Will I have to spend a small fortune in chlorine etc only to close it?

You have to drain it sooner or later.

If your pool has been algae free and you are just looking to get your water chemistry back in shape then you can maintain your water at CYA 120 for a few weeks until closing and deal with it as part of your 2022 opening.
 
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You have to drain it sooner or later.

If your pool has been algae free and you are just looking to get your water chemistry back in shape then you can maintain your water at CYA 120 for a few weeks until closing and deal with it as part of your 2022 opening.
I have fought algea all year. I'd rather do the water exchange now, and put less FC in it to close and open to a clear pool than wait till next year and deal with it. I just found a bunch of liquid Chlorine 10% at lowes today (fresh shipment) and bought 14 jugs @ 128 oz. When I return I'll use that to increase my FC levels before closing.
 
And so we wait! Total time to exchange 70% of 33000g (23100 g) is 93 hrs at 4.14 gallons per minute. Monday at 7am I will be complete.

Once complete, what is my next steps?
Watch your water meter. You will find that your fill rate changes with water use in the neighborhood.
You should also take pictures of your water meter, before and after, and of the hose going into the pool. You likely can get a reduction in your SEWER bill if you can prove all this water didn't go in the sewer.

Test and post results!
 
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Watch your water meter. You will find that your fill rate changes with water use in the neighborhood.
You should also take pictures of your water meter, before and after, and of the hose going into the pool. You likely can get a reduction in your SEWER bill if you can prove all this water didn't go in the sewer.

Test and post results!
Sounds great! I actually called out water company and they said we dont get any discounted rates for filling pools. Ah well. It was $6.47 for 1000 gallons. Not bad at all. I'll post results monday!
 

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We don't get a discount for sewer here, the reason I was given? "Eventually it will end up in the sewer when you drain it." Hmmmm, haven't drained any yet, and don't anticipate the need. Water company doesn't care though.
 
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Test and post results
Ok! I am complete with my water exchange. Here are my results

FC 1
CC 0
TA 110
PH 7.8
CYA 35
CH 200

So I'm very low on FC, I'll begin adding that now. My TA is a bit high. How should I go about lowering it? Also, my CYA levels are GREAT. 35 from 110. That makes me happy. All this was worth it. In the pic attached, I started vacuuming the algae off the pool floor before adding chlorine. It was unbelievable how much was there.

Before I add any chemicals, I'll wait for your responses. Point me in the right direction please. Thanks!
 

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Get your FC up to top end of recommended range and keep it there until you understand how your pool acts. FC/CYA Levels

if you have a vinyl liner, no need to change TA, unless you find pH climbs regularly. Then you want to add MA to reduce to pH 7.0 and aerate to raise pH without raising TA. (hint...search function). Rinse and repeat until you hit your target MA. Reduce TA

You may want to run an OCLT to make sure you don't have active algae. Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
 
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Get your FC up to top end of recommended range and keep it there. FC/CYA Levels

if you have a vinyl liner, no need to change TA, unless you find pH climbs regularly.
Sounds GREAT!! yep, I've got a vinyl liner. I'll keep an eye out on my ph. Question: is there a more accurate test in the T-100 pool test kit besides the test in the blue container? I figured there would be a more accurate test than just matching colors?
 
Updated my answer to me more accurate.

Not sure about your question, WRT more accurate test besides the "blue container." Blue capped reagents are for CH, not TA. Can you clarify?
 
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Sounds GREAT!! yep, I've got a vinyl liner. I'll keep an eye out on my ph. Question: is there a more accurate test in the T-100 pool test kit besides the test in the blue container? I figured there would be a more accurate test than just matching colors?
No, the test (K-1000) for ph is the standard here. You just want to match the tone, not the exact color (in other words, is your test sample yellow, orange, coral, pink or red? Use whatever number corresponds to the tone).
 
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I figured there would be a more accurate test than just matching colors?
You can get a digital pH meter, most of them are fine. They require regular calibration and you're not really going to get more accurate data, but it's an option if the upsides are worth the downsides to you. IMO the color matching on this particular test is fairly easy as there's significant difference between the high and low end and the lower precision (accuracy and precision are different things) than a digital meter does not affect my care routine.
 
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