Pentair Intellichlor IC15 PP40 Fuse issue

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E

Elcomico

0
Jun 24, 2014
25
Montreal QC Canada
My trusty SWG has stopped working. A LPS kindly suggested checking the fuse on the PP and bingo! Paying $0.50 when you're ready to shell out $1k doesn't happen often!

The manual states using a 1.5a fuse. At the store, looking at the blown one I took in, they believed it was a 2a (not easy to read). Erring on the safe side, I bought 1.5a fuses.

I was happy for five seconds. While I was able to confirm the fuse was in fact the issue, it blew right away. Just when I regretted not getting both sizes, I actually read the label on the PP (label I've looked at but not read in 5 years...). A 1a is recommended...

Now I'm confused. While I understand the PP may be different than the one mentioned in the manual (model 17246r2), needing a fuse that's different than the one on the label is intriguing. I'm the original owner of the IC15 and never replaced the fuse. I'm wondering if it was changed by my installer initially. Perhaps this is a well-known issue?

Would you install a 2a fuse and forget about it?

Many thanks!
 

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Page 3 in https://www.pentair.com/content/dam...al_Version_3_units_after_Nov_2011_English.pdf says the IC15 power supply takes a 1.5 amp fuse.

Replacing the fuse with a 2Amp will only cause something more expensive to burn out. You will need to figure out why the power supply is pulling more then it is designed for.

What salinity is your pool?

How do you measure the salinity?

Salt too high can cause the cell to draw too much current.
 
Thanks for the reply ajw22,

The pool's salinity is around 2,200 ppm according to my test strips. The expiry date being June 2021, I'll get new ones today. This being said, I've always added the same 2 bags of salt after filling my pool (emptied and refilled 2 weeks ago following an algae issue).

Like mentioned, I'm aware of the requirement from the manual. What do you make of the label on the powerpack?

After my original post, I installed a 6a fuse to confirm the fuse issue. The SWG came back on and everything appeared to work normally (I wasn't planning on using that fuse for anything other than testing purposes). However, the fuse blew again immediately after asking for more chlorine (from 60% to 100%)

Has anyone had to "clean" the inside of a powerpack or the SWG in order to eliminate any possible resistances possibly responsible for the surge in power?
 
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I was fortunate enough to find a pool installer with a testing zone for salt cells. It's in fact a rubbermaid container filled with water with the right salinity and a tube screwed into it to fool the flow valve. Yes, hardly high tech, but highly effective. The smell of chlorine being generated alone allowed us to confirm the cell worked perfectly. Yes, all lights came on and the unit behaved normally.

It would have required an electrician to test the powerpack, so I decided to simply order a new one. Simply isn't what it used to be and I did not debate too long between a $350cdn powerpack or a $999 complete kit. Learning the cells have a 5-7 year life expectancy made the decision of sitting on a cell waiting for the original one to eventually die easy.

Waiting for the Fedex guy...
 
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