Bad Salt Cell?

dschulte

Member
Jun 18, 2021
8
Maryland
Pool Size
17000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Im having issues with my Intellichlor SC40 Salt cell. Flow Switch is red and Salt Level sometimes flashes red/green sometimes solid green. The salt level generally resets after startup but lately not the flow light. I just changed the flow switch and still red (actually twice). I have a Mastertemp 400 just before the cell and the Thermal Regulator corroded out and Im waiting on a new one. I actually found the spring and Thermal regulator up against the fins of the salt cell as it washed through. I’m curious if having the Thermal Regulator out somehow is causing the flow to be low to the cell? On a side note I just cleaned the filter and the flow otherwise looks fine. I can tell usually because I have a sheer decent that will stop if there isn’t enough pressure coming through.
 
How old is your Intellichlor SC40 Salt cell?
Its 5 years old - I actually pulled the manifold off the Heater and changed the bypass valve and my flow is back green. Im not sure if maybe it was stuck or what but fingers crossed its back working again. Its good because I searched for a new salt cell and they are pretty hard to find.
 
I have an IntelliChlor IC40 and cannot get the flow light to go green! It started showing as red in the past few weeks (it would go between red and green), but recently it has stayed red. Ive tried everything I can think of - new flow switch, new filters, tried tying the black and red wires together to bypass the flow - always red. Also my salt readings are all over the place - sometimes high, sometimes low.

Diagnostics show 40% of the cell is used and water temp is correct.

Im down to the communications in the cell arent reading and I need a new cell. Does anyone have any ideas? Ive seen this thread a few times here but never a final cause.
 
D,

If you connected the Black and Red wires from the cell together and the flow light did not turn green, then the cell has to be bad.

The flow switch is just a simple switch.. It is either closed or open. Connecting the Black and Red wires does exactly what the switch does when it is closed.

Sorry,

Jim R.
 
D,

If you connected the Black and Red wires from the cell together and the flow light did not turn green, then the cell has to be bad.

The flow switch is just a simple switch.. It is either closed or open. Connecting the Black and Red wires does exactly what the switch does when it is closed.

Sorry,

Jim R.
Thanks - yeah that's my thought too unfortunately. The cell is only 3 years old and 40% used so its not ideal. There doesn't seem to be a way to get inside them to fix anything else correct? Any thoughts on the generic models? Just looking at options due to the supply. Obviously just running chlorine until I can get a new one
 
D,

If you have a Pentair Automation system. I'd stick with the IntelliChlor..

If you do not have an automation system, then I would go with a CircuPool SWCG...

Thanks,

Jim R.
No no automation - just the Pentair Power Center. I appreciate the recommendation - now to try and find one...
 

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Circupool has a Pentair clone that will fit right into your existing unions and use your existing power center.

 
Circupool has a Pentair clone that will fit right into your existing unions and use your existing power center.

I was looking at that - does it have a good track record for quality? I only have a 3 year old Pentair so cant be too much worse
 
In general Circupool products are well regarded. They have some issues, as all manufacturers do, but they stand behind their warranty.

Availability, well, that might take some time.
 
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