I did it again and this time it was almost to the twenty. About half a finger width below the 20 mark. This is when it was in the shadow of my body. When it was in bright sun, I could still see the dot. I don't know if that matters.
Pool SOS
- Thread starter Athas08
- Start date
Do you have liquid chlorine? If so, use PoolMath to determine how much to add to bring your water to 10 ppm FC. Add that, let it circulate for 10 minutes, and test your FC.
This test will determine if the only possible cause of CYA dropping that fast has happened.
This test will determine if the only possible cause of CYA dropping that fast has happened.
crimson avenger
Gold Supporter
- Jun 22, 2019
- 338
- Pool Size
- 2300
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-20
If that's what it takes. We've barely used the pool this summer.
crimson avenger
Gold Supporter
- Jun 22, 2019
- 338
- Pool Size
- 2300
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-20
I have a 2300 gallon pool.
I struggled with a SLAM for 2.5 weeks earlier this summer (not actually that long ago).
I decided it was easier to drain/refill - and I was right.
Learn your proper testing, and consider a drain/refill.
We've dumped so much money in chemicals this summer it's ridiculous. If it's going to take a lot more in chemicals to do a SLAM, then we might as well refill.
Well, it sounds like you've experienced an ammonia conversion over the weekend. It's really rare to happen during the season and over the matter of a couple days, but it's about the only way for your CYA to have dropped that fast and losing FC that quickly after adding it is a symptom of it.
I'd say if you're considering a total drain and refill then you don't really want to mess around with more testing and chlorine. If you go with the full drain option you'll want to test and adjust the pH right away after refilling, add 3 ppm of chlorine, and 30 ppm of CYA. That'll get you off to a good start.
Is it easier to do a full drain than to mess with the chemicals to get it back?
MITBeta
Gold Supporter
- May 28, 2020
- 1,201
- Pool Size
- 13000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
If your CYA is that low, test again without diluting. Fill to the bottom of the label with just pool water and the rest of the way with R-0013.
It was at 100 Thursday. But I'll do a regular CYA test in the morning.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,702
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
This is why i love/prefer the tf100 over the k2006- you get plenty of regeants so you can re test when needed & don’t feel like u will run out when getting the hang of things.
You did. But in the wrong order. Let’s break it down again…..
fill pool water to the label. Fill the rest of the way with R-0013. Shake and wait.
now mix the ‘mix’ with and equal part of tap water. So you are cutting the mix in half, not cutting the half mix in half.
Ok, lol. Let me just double check then. Fill the bottle with the red cap as if doing a regular CYA test. Then dump half that out and replace with tap water. Then pour into the CYA view tube as usual.You did. But in the wrong order. Let’s break it down again…..
fill pool water to the label. Fill the rest of the way with R-0013. Shake and wait.
now mix the ‘mix’ with and equal part of tap water. So you are cutting the mix in half, not cutting the half mix in half.
That’s it. Same steps but different order. Instead of X2 your way was X4 if my napkin maths is correct. It’s good that you read a 20 because when you get the X2 result it should be the 80 or so we hoped for in the first place. If you were seeing 50 the way you did it, you’d have 200ish.
Yes. Perfect. 120 it is. Draining/lowering CYA is an even %. Half is half and so on. A 58% drain would leave you with a 50 CYA and be much more manageable for FC maintenance. You’ll probably want a 40 in TX anyway so you might as well drain your smaller pool 66% to get there.
Could my CYA be so high because I've been using the powdered shock to raise chlorine levels?
If it’s stabilized with Cyanuric Acid then that’s where it came from.
Going forward you’ll read all labels and know what you’re adding, what it will do, and you’ll verify it did what it was supposed to do after adding it.
*also for future knowledge, the powdered shocks and tabs/pucks are either stabilized with CYA or calcium. You can pick and choose when you need what, or how much room to spare you have at times. Overall you will want only liquid chlorine / bleach / sodium Hyperchlorite more often than not.