First time testing water using TFP kit - help

Is the air bubble staying the same or getting bigger? Does it go away when you raise the rpm of your pump? Are there bubbles coming out of your returns (not tied to the SWCG operation).
Yes
I just noticed small air bubbles coming out of the return in the deep end, probably the return closest to the pad
My RPM is slow as I’m adjusting the speeds to find the sweet spot (about 1900 right now)
 
If you can add what SWCG you have to your signature, we can help.
You want the SWCG to create the amount of FC your pool uses each day. Right now your pool is probably using 2 ppm FC per day or a little less. So the SWCG needs to be set to create 2 ppm FC to start and then test your FC each day to see if the FC amount goes up or down. You then narrow down to what setting works for you. Poolmath helps you with this by using Effects Of Adding Chemicals.
Hi and thanks
I’ll add to sig now but it is a Jandy Aquapure 1400 - says it delivers 1.25 lbs/day
 
OK -- When you raise the rpm to 3000, does the bubble clear out, stay the same, get worse?

VS pumps are known to build a small air bubble under the lid when operating at low rpm. A higher burst of rpm once or twice a day will clear it.
If the bubbles are NOT tied to the SWCG operation (they create bubbles of hydrogen gas when generating chlorine) then I would suggest cleaning and using proper pool lubricant on the pump lid gasket.
 
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I’ll add to sig now but it is a Jandy Aquapure 1400 - says it delivers 1.25 lbs/day
That SWCG will add 0.3 ppm FC to your pool each hour when set at 100% generation. So right now, you should start with at least 7 hours of 100% generation (or a combination of run hours and % generation to equal that). Then monitor your FC and adjust as necessary.
 
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That SWCG will add 0.3 ppm FC to your pool each hour when set at 100% generation. So right now, you should start with at least 7 hours of 100% generation (or a combination of run hours and % generation to equal that). Then monitor your FC and adjust as necessary.
Thank you

Interesting that my FC still registers high at 10, probably because it’s cool and no swimmers. I’ll dial it back and monitor

also, think I am about to turn HeatPump on (model in sig), in the manual it states optimal GPM is 60, but not sure how to dial that in with VSP and RPM ??
Should I set the HeatPump to “maintain” and it will turn on pump overnight as needed or just for it to run during the day you think ?
Day time highs right now are upper 70’s/low 80’s and lows in low 60’s
 
Howdy Riddler.. I've been watching from afar, 'Dude and the others have been guiding you welll.. It fun to watch a new owner get the hang of things!

You can start turning your SWG knob down a bit.. When mine gets to 10-ish I drop the output in 10% increments.. let it settle and see where it tests out. You will find the FC demand will increase over the summer due to the sun and bathers and then drop off in the fall. It is never static, but it is a gentle curve. It really took two seasons for me to get the feel of it so be patient.

Yup a CYA of 70 is perfect for a SWG pool.. you will see your FC retention start to go up as you approach the golden value...and you will have to tweak the % output knob to compensate.

I love doing the Alk test.. its just so fun..

Yes water additions will throw off your chem levels.. I did not see where any one suggested you run a panel of tests on the water you put into the pool. You should do that so you know how much is being added by your water additions. For example if you have really hard water, your CH will be constantly rising...

BTW a previous post you asked about taking multiple trips to the pool to get 18" deep samples... who said pool ownership wasn't going to be a workout! ;) I use these..
We get them from the Dollar store and are multi-purpose devices. Then I blast/fill a little 16 oz squirt bottle that is big enough to do all the tests. Don't forget to rinse!
Thanks for all your feedback and suggestions

next up is dialing in my SWG and learning to adjust through warmer months AND figuring out how to use the HeatPump effectively
 
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next up is dialing in my SWG and learning to adjust through warmer months AND figuring out how to use the HeatPump effectively
They both require some trial and error. The SWG will be easier because you can see the results of your changes tomorrow. The heat pump will be harder because you will see the results tomorrow but won’t see the bill for it until at least 30 days after. But with some experiments you will have a much better feel for it next year.

If maximum swimmability is your goal, Set it and forget it. It will run pretty much full time and whenever you guys decide to hop in, chances are the pool will be toasty warm. Be it after school, midnight or 7AM on a Tuesday.


if saving on the electric bill while taking the cold edge off the water Is your goal, Use the heat pump during the warm parts of the day to maximize its efficiency in heating. Then cover it overnight with a solar blanket to help keep the most of that efficient heat in until tomorrow when the your cycle repeats.

Actually either way you need the solar cover. Unless you like throwing lots of money out the window. If you do enjoy that, Tell me and @mguzzy which window and we will be waiting outside it. :)
 
They both require some trial and error. The SWG will be easier because you can see the results of your changes tomorrow. The heat pump will be harder because you will see the results tomorrow but won’t see the bill for it until at least 30 days after. But with some experiments you will have a much better feel for it next year.

If maximum swimmability is your goal, Set it and forget it. It will run pretty much full time and whenever you guys decide to hop in, chances are the pool will be toasty warm. Be it after school, midnight or 7AM on a Tuesday.


if saving on the electric bill while taking the cold edge off the water Is your goal, Use the heat pump during the warm parts of the day to maximize its efficiency in heating. Then cover it overnight with a solar blanket to help keep the most of that efficient heat in until tomorrow when the your cycle repeats.

Actually either way you need the solar cover. Unless you like throwing lots of money out the window. If you do enjoy that, Tell me and @mguzzy which window and we will be waiting outside it. :)
I have thought about a solar cover but honestly looking at my pool not sure how I could get one to function for us

I might just try set it and forget it and see what happens and how close the bill is to an AC unit during a hot month.
Unless you have an idea for a cover ?
 
Unless you have an idea for a cover
There is always a way....... :)

With an odd sIze pool (in this case particularly wide) you may have to get 2 smaller covers and lay them side by side, rotating them 90 degrees from the pool. So looking at the pool it goes left to right but the covers go up/down.

however you figure it out, mine cut my electric bill in half saving $300-$400 a month when it was cooler. Even if it only saves you $200 a month it will pay for itself many times over. Even if you have to buy 2 covers.
 
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There is always a way....... :)

With an odd sIze pool (in this case particularly wide) you may have to get 2 smaller covers and lay them side by side, rotating them 90 degrees from the pool. So looking at the pool it goes left to right but the covers go up/down.

however you figure it out, mine cut my electric bill in half saving $300-$400 a month when it was cooler. Even if it only saves you $200 a month it will pay for itself many times over. Even if you have to buy 2 covers.
How hard is it removing it every day and storage and assume your pumps are off then when it is on ?
 
How hard is it removing it every day and storage and assume your pumps are off then when it is on ?
I remove mine when I want to use the pool, I have it in sections, fold each section up and put under the patio. I can get it off in a few minutes and put it back on in the same time frame. I do have a small pool.
You can run the pump with it on or off the pool.
Most important is to cover over night.
 
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I have a free form pool as well. and I used to cut the cover to perfectly fit the shape of my pool... Now I am old and lazy and I just let the extra flop over the edges. I also used to be very particular about how I pulled the cover off and stored it.. It was a nice accordion fold against the pool fence so when I put it back on, it just unfurled like raising the mainsail... Now it sits in the corner like a tent blew over. I can't say any other technique increased or decreased its effectiveness. I can say it doesn't really heat the pool.. but it does slow down how much heat the pool looses at night.... Now you'll excuse me while I go kick those kids off my lawn.
 
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An ongoing debate that will rage on ‘til the end of time. I chose to turn my heater off and not have to use the cover. Some people don’t mind it at all. 🤷‍♂️
Yeah, I just don’t see me running out there every day to remove a cover and storing it easily is another issue

any ballpark of what the HeatPump usage would draw if I just set it to maintain

I have 4 ACs that during the peak summer, I don’t think 2 ever turn off for any length of time.

maybe I’ll try that mid May closer to Memorial Day
 
any ballpark of what the HeatPump usage would draw if I just set it to maintain
There are way too many factors. Pentair has the calculator on its website. Dodge also tells me what MPG I should be getting per the EPA. Personally I believe either # and $7 will buy me a drink at Starbucks. :ROFLMAO:
I have 4 ACs that during the peak summer, I don’t think 2 ever turn off for any length of time.
Well this is promising. You either have cheaper electric rates or you are just ok with paying $600-$800 a month in electric. I’m guessing the first part. The good news is when your HP is struggling, the ACs won’t be and vice versa. When it’s 88 and humid and the ACs are bogging down, The HP will be in its glory. So you’ll only have to pay for one or the other and not both, Which is nice to spread the cost out. If you think in terms of BTUs, The one HP probably costs about as much as the 4 smaller ACs. Only one way to find out for sure.

keep us posted as always !
 
There are way too many factors. Pentair has the calculator on its website. Dodge also tells me what MPG I should be getting per the EPA. Personally I believe either # and $7 will buy me a drink at Starbucks. :ROFLMAO:

Well this is promising. You either have cheaper electric rates or you are just ok with paying $600-$800 a month in electric. I’m guessing the first part. The good news is when your HP is struggling, the ACs won’t be and vice versa. When it’s 88 and humid and the ACs are bogging down, The HP will be in its glory. So you’ll only have to pay for one or the other and not both, Which is nice to spread the cost out. If you think in terms of BTUs, The one HP probably costs about as much as the 4 smaller ACs. Only one way to find out for sure.

keep us posted as always !
Agreed
$300-$400 electric at peak summer so not to bad and the units are 16 years old so I’m sure when I replace, my usage wil be even more efficient

I am going to go for it - to your point only one way to find out and the whole point of getting the HP was to extend the season vs the traditional Memorial to Labor Day spread.
I’ll keep you posted or either set up a GoFund me page after I get the first bill !!!!

8489EEE8-0002-4074-BA51-A67D0C7288DB.jpeg
 
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Agreed
$300-$400 electric at peak summer so not to bad and the units are 16 years old so I’m sure when I replace, my usage wil be even more efficient

I am going to go for it - to your point only one way to find out and the whole point of getting the HP was to extend the season vs the traditional Memorial to Labor Day spread.
I’ll keep you posted or either set up a GoFund me page after I get the first bill !!!!

View attachment 326530
$400 a month in summer? Wow, I think we ran $200 last summer at the worst, but only have 2 AC units running.
 
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I’ll keep you posted or either set up a GoFund me page after I get the first bill !!!
Fun story. I had 2 month billing at the time and got the Aug/Sept bill in October. It was about $250 over and we did a happy dance that the HP was the best decision ever @ $125 a month. When the next 2 month bill came it was $1000 over because the previous good bill was an estimate and that one they came and checked our actual usage. The pool was long closed, it was 3 weeks before Xmas and I had to square up for the fun we had in September. It stung for several reasons.

We started the 1st full season with a solar cover after that and it cut the high bills in half. They still weren’t cheap, but half of anything is a good chunk.
 
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There is always a way....... :)

With an odd sIze pool (in this case particularly wide) you may have to get 2 smaller covers and lay them side by side, rotating them 90 degrees from the pool. So looking at the pool it goes left to right but the covers go up/down.

however you figure it out, mine cut my electric bill in half saving $300-$400 a month when it was cooler. Even if it only saves you $200 a month it will pay for itself many times over. Even if you have to buy 2 covers.

another weekly full test outcome

ALK has dropped to now reading around 80.
Q: can I leave it on the speedstir while I add R-009 because it says to swirl between drop not while dropping ??

CH test - took 8 drops to turn Blue but that’s while I was stirring on speedstir - is this wrong ? Result is low at 200
Do I really add 50lbs to increase to 450 as suggested or leave as is for now ?

everything else seems OK, I added acid 2 days ago to drop PH which is why it’s 7.2 as it raises quilt due to aeration and I was trying to pull down ALK

Got CYA to increase now to about 80

SWG is set to 30% currently

and most importantly turned on HP, pool water raised to about 78 which the kids didn’t seem to mind, I also spent 4 hours in - would prefer 85 but 78 late April isn’t bad in NC I guess
 

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