Help me update my system, please!

AviatorBimmer

Well-known member
Mar 29, 2021
105
Florida
Pool Size
10000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-30 Plus
Hello all!

We just purchased a home and it has a 14,500 gallons in-ground pool. This is our first pooled home and being the stickler for doing things the right way, I have already started learning on my own and getting this pool up to date.

I have already swapped out the old pump for a new Hayward SP3202VSF variable speed pump but I am having concerns with the way the current piping has been laid out.

The suction and return piping is 1 1/2" but I see a mixture of 1 1/2" and 2" pipes being used. To me, it all looks like a hack job with numerous size reducers, unions and quite honestly, too many 90 degree elbows being used.

Right off the bat, I noticed (after the installer had already left) that the intake to the pump is too close to the valve. According to Hayward, for 1 1/2", the distance needs to be at least 7 1/2" between the pump intake and the valve.

I also see a section of piping that comes from the heat pump which goes up almost to the top of the filter in height, then drops down to the surface of the concrete slab. Is that really necessary? Why force water up like that for what seems to be no apparent reason. At least for me but I could be wrong.

I plan on redoing all the piping from and to the valves with 1 1/2" piping (since that's what goes to and from to the pool) and just leave the 2" piping to and from the heat pump.

Does this sound good?

What can you guys recommend I do instead of that or in addition to that?

Thanks for any help and advivce. This forum has been AWESOME in helping me learn so much in so little time.
 

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Welcome to TFP! :wave: I notice you are saying "heat pump", but that is an inline (tab) chlorinator. I agree, I don't see a need for that large up & down loop. As for the pump intake, probably not ideal, but not a show-stopper. Neither are the pipe size changes, but those are certainly something you can tackle on a nice DIY weekend. Nice to have you on TFP.
 
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When you do go back and re-do the plumbing, you might consider a salt water generator (SWG). I removed my inline chlorinator for an SWG and am much happier. If you aren't ready for an SWG, just consider adding some unions before/after the tab chlorinator so that you have the ability to install one later if you wish. Don't let that horizontal run lay too close to the ground either. Unions are great just about anywhere that you think you might disconnect later.
 
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Welcome to the forum.

That loop may be used to keep your spa from draining. I see a check valve, but I suspect that failed and they put that loop in instead.
 
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Welcome to TFP! :wave: I notice you are saying "heat pump", but that is an inline (tab) chlorinator. I agree, I don't see a need for that large up & down loop. As for the pump intake, probably not ideal, but not a show-stopper. Neither are the pipe size changes, but those are certainly something you can tackle on a nice DIY weekend. Nice to have you on TFP.

Hi Texas Splash! Thanks for the warm welcome and quick response.

Oh yes, that is an inline tab chlorinator. The heat pump (which BTW is not working but still connected) is out of the picture.

I certainly want to streamline everything and remove the myriad of elbows, joints, etc. My OCD is kicking in. lol

Is there a way to check if the tan chlorinator is working besides obviously dropping a tablet in it?

Oh another thing, what is this that on the pipe coming from the heat pump? Is that a check valve?
 

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That appears to be one of the older style check valves by the way. So when you go into PVC surgery to satisfy your "OCD" (ha), you might replace that with one of the newer check vales. Today's check valves have clear lids that are removable for maintenance.
 
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When you do go back and re-do the plumbing, you might consider a salt water generator (SWG). I removed my inline chlorinator for an SWG and am much happier. If you aren't ready for an SWG, just consider adding some unions before/after the tab chlorinator so that you have the ability to install one later if you wish. Don't let that horizontal run lay too close to the ground either. Unions are great just about anywhere that you think you might disconnect later.

A SWG is definitely something I will consider but not yet. I'm still a rookie and don't want to overwhelm myself. lol Once I feel I have a solid understanding of how to maintain my pool properly with chlorine, then I'll consider switching to a SWG.

I will definitely run the new piping and have unions in place for when that time comes it will be a breeze to install the SWG like you said.

Thanks again for your sound advice! I will tackle this project this weekend and make sure I post an after photo.
 
A SWG is definitely something I will consider but not yet. I'm still a rookie and don't want to overwhelm myself. lol Once I feel I have a solid understanding of how to maintain my pool properly with chlorine, then I'll consider switching to a SWG.

I will definitely run the new piping and have unions in place for when that time comes it will be a breeze to install the SWG like you said.

Thanks again for your sound advice! I will tackle this project this weekend and make sure I post an after photo.
If you can stomach the cost of the SWG, there is no better time than now to add it. Chlorine tablets lead to issues, the best way is adding liquid chlorine daily to avoid getting any algae... with the SWG, the chlorine gets produced daily anyway. Maintenance is the same except you don't have to lug bleach to your pool every day. Just a thought... especially if you're about to cut everything free... if you think in the near future you want to add the SWG, I would just wait on replumbing things until you're adding that and do it all at once.
 

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If you can stomach the cost of the SWG, there is no better time than now to add it. Chlorine tablets lead to issues, the best way is adding liquid chlorine daily to avoid getting any algae... with the SWG, the chlorine gets produced daily anyway. Maintenance is the same except you don't have to lug bleach to your pool every day. Just a thought... especially if you're about to cut everything free... if you think in the near future you want to add the SWG, I would just wait on replumbing things until you're adding that and do it all at once.

Hmmmm interesting food for thought here. So even a rookie like me would be better off with SWG? Maybe I am overthinking this and thinking I can't handle it

For my pool size, what would be a good SWG system that won't break the bank by being too much or overkill for my needs?

14,500 gallons, 1.85 variable speed pump...
 
I converted to salt last Apr just before this whole COVID mess really hit the fan. So glad I did since chlorine costs went crazy this past year. Just do a little research here at TFP and perhaps review the SWG options on the link below. My Circupool RJ-45 install was not bad at all.

 
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I converted to salt last Apr just before this whole COVID mess really hit the fan. So glad I did since chlorine costs went crazy this past year. Just do a little research here at TFP and perhaps review the SWG options on the link below. My Circupool RJ-45 install was not bad at all.


Dang, they have a sale going where I can get the RJ-45 for the price of the RJ-30 + $1 buck!

This is really looking more and more enticing. lol
 
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Ok guys, so I'm going to order the Circupool RJ-30 Plus!! Pretty stoked that I'll be switching to a salt water system. My cousin has one and I've always loved that feeling of bathing with water from a water softener lol

Since I will be doing the install myself and getting rid of the inline tab chlorine dispenser and damaged heat pump, can you guys come up with a quick diagram of how everything should be plumbed?

I want to add/change 3-way valves and add/change check valves where needed with the mindset that probably at the end of the year, I will purchase a new heat pump.

I basically want to make sure I add check valves where they need to be for my system.

Thanks in advance!
 
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EBC6C9FE-8106-412B-8F06-515B2C39B430.jpeg

Ok peeps, how does this sketch look like? Anything you would add or remove?
Also, since I plan on getting a heat pump in tje future, how should I connect it to the system?
 
You should not need a check valve on the suction side.

Your first picture showed one return going to 'spa'. Do you have a spa? The suction side was not labeled with a spa drain.
 
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You should not need a check valve on the suction side.

Your first picture showed one return going to 'spa'. Do you have a spa? The suction side was not labeled with a spa drain.
Ok, I will not use a check valve on the suction side.

Not really a "spa" but 2 jets over a set of steps, perhaps a "step spa" lol... The suction are just the skimmer and drain. The 2 returns are 1 used for 4 return jets and the other for the 2 return jets serving as the "step spa".

In other words. I can close the return to the 4 jets and this directs all the pressure to the 2 jets above the steps where one can sit down and enjoy something like a spa.
 
Then you do not need the check valve on the return side either as you are going to a SWCG.
 
Yes. Tab chlorine is very acidic. So you must not allow that stew to back up to your heater or it will destroy it. Really, you should never turn off the pump with tablets in the chlorinator. That is the demise of many a pool heater.
 
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