AquaLink RS8 - all lights on, no control over equipment

[gbrenham]

I had an issue where I think the inside of the external AquaLink RS Control near the pool equipment got water inside. Now all lights on the inside AquaLink RS8 are on and is displaying the revision number (6700 Rev. C). Outside there are lights on the panel (if you can't see it - the following is lit: Auto, Time Out, Filter Pump, Cleaner, & Water Fall - all other lights are not lit).

I've read where it could be the while PCB board in the controller or the transformer...both outside.

Things I've checked:

• Breaker box in garage is on and supplying power (i.e. lights are on both controllers inside and outside)
• GFI is not tripped. Clicked TEST and then RESET
• Measured like 121 v at the GFI below the panel

How do I determine which if the issue is the board or the transformer? I'm assuming I need to test both these components with a multimeter. Need specific directions...pictures even better! Think "Multimeter's for Dummies"?

If I have to purchase something, is there a way to bypass some of this control equipment and get the pump & filter working temporarily?

 

[ajw22]

Did you try turning the breakers off on all the pool equipment and the power to the Aqualink, waiting 5 minutes, and then powering the Aqualink back up?

@PoolGate @JamesW ideas?

 

[guinness]

Check Section 5. Troubleshooting on page 40

https://www.iaqualink.com/-/media/zodiac/global/downloads/0748-91071/6594.pdf

Looks like the screws on the RS-485 terminal (red block) have rust. Power down the panel, remove the wires and see if you clean them up and then reattach the wires.

 

[gbrenham]

Did you try turning the breakers off on all the pool equipment and the power to the Aqualink, waiting 5 minutes, and then powering the Aqualink back up?

@PoolGate @JamesW ideas?

I did... No effect.

 

[gbrenham]

Check Section 5. Troubleshooting on page 40

https://www.iaqualink.com/-/media/zodiac/global/downloads/0748-91071/6594.pdf

Looks like the screws on the RS-485 terminal (red block) have rust. Power down the panel, remove the wires and see if you clean them up and then reattach the wires.

Yes, I've seen the troubleshooting guide & read other posts referring to this as well. It was the basis of my question on board vs. transformer.

Btw, the fuse is not blown on the PCB.

 

[guinness]

Yes, I've seen the troubleshooting guide & read other posts referring to this as well. It was the basis of my question on board vs. transformer.

So which of the two below matches your situation? What happened after you removed, cleaned and reattached wires?

Symptom	Problem	Possible Solution
All LEDs are on at the control panel and the part # and revision letter of the control panel software are displayed. The override switches at the power center operate as they should.	Control panel is not communicating with the power center PCB.	Check the two center wires (black & yellow) of the four conductor cable. Also check the installation of the CPU Board on the power center PCB. If the PPD is not seated correctly the system will not communicate.
All LEDs are on at the control panel and the part # and revision letter are displayed, but override switches at the power center do not operate at all.	1. Damaged or improperly installed CPU Board. 2. Damaged power center PCB.	1. Check alignment of the CPU Board. 2. If CPU Board is installed correctly, replace the power center PCB.

 

[gbrenham]

So which of the two below matches your situation? What happened after you removed, cleaned and reattached wires?

Symptom	Problem	Possible Solution
All LEDs are on at the control panel and the part # and revision letter of the control panel software are displayed. The override switches at the power center operate as they should.	Control panel is not communicating with the power center PCB.	Check the two center wires (black & yellow) of the four conductor cable. Also check the installation of the CPU Board on the power center PCB. If the PPD is not seated correctly the system will not communicate.
All LEDs are on at the control panel and the part # and revision letter are displayed, but override switches at the power center do not operate at all.	1. Damaged or improperly installed CPU Board. 2. Damaged power center PCB.	1. Check alignment of the CPU Board. 2. If CPU Board is installed correctly, replace the power center PCB.

Second scenario. I cleaned the red block (water & baking soda). Now no lights on the outside board at all. Inside controller the same - all lights on

 

[guinness]

Second scenario. I cleaned the red block (water & baking soda). Now no lights on the outside board at all. Inside controller the same - all lights on

Cleaning terminal connector might have helped with the first, but the second scenario seems like a bad board in the outside panel.

 

[gbrenham]

Cleaning terminal connector might have helped with the first, but the second scenario seems like a bad board in the outside panel.

Yes, it does seem like a bad board. Back to my original question - how do I determine it's a bad board vs. a bad transformer?

 

[Rossterman]

There is a guy who will rebuild them for $150 in santa rosa ca. Also you could update to a iaqualink controller which comes with a new board And allows you to ditch the old controller and do everything off your phone Using the internet and wifi connection

 

[gbrenham]

Thanks everyone! I did utilize BP Engineering in CA. He fixed me right up! Highly recommend if you need repair on your PCB. In the interim, my motor froze up...if it not one thing it's another...thanks 2020! Now off to post another single vs. dual vs. variable speed post!

 

[jleonard711]

I know this is an old thread, but I found it since I was searching for a way to fix the same issue that I was having and I thought I'd share how I fixed it. It turned the wire going from the panel to the pump had a short in it, looks like it was chewed on by an animal, so I just had to replace that wire and it works perfectly now!

I diagnosed it by unplugging all off the terminals at the top and tried powering it on, and when I did that the lights circled around twice and then went into "Auto" mode just like it's supposed to. So then I turned it back off and plugged one connector back in and powered it back up, and it worked fine. I kept doing that until I found the culprit, and when I learned it was the pump I went over and started looking at that and noticed the chewed wire right at the back of the pump.

 

[Warrior30]

There is a guy who will rebuild them for $150 in santa rosa ca. Also you could update to a iaqualink controller which comes with a new board And allows you to ditch the old controller and do everything off your phone Using the internet and wifi connection

Hi there, do you have the contact info to rebuild the aqua link board. i can see that my board has a blown relay, Zettler AZ951-1C-24DE. I just want to get it fixed asap . Santa Rosa is about 2hours away from where I live. And might as well stop by Russian River brewery while I am there. Thanks for the help!

 

[ajw22]

Hi there, do you have the contact info to rebuild the aqua link board. i can see that my board has a blown relay, Zettler AZ951-1C-24DE. I just want to get it fixed asap . Santa Rosa is about 2hours away from where I live. And might as well stop by Russian River brewery while I am there. Thanks for the help!

Some members have had good experiences with BP Engineering, Inc. in Santa Rosa, CA, repairing their Jandy boards.

They can be contacted at bpengineering "at" sbcglobal "dot" net

Jandy Aqualink RS - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com