New pool design finalized. Open to suggestions.

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It is best to have some straight pipe before the SWCG. I would not stress on getting exactly 12" or more. What you are trying to do is reduce the turbulence prior to the flow switch in the IC40. Some folks have no issues with essentially 0 straight pipe before the SWCG . Remember you can go vertical with the SWCG. Read your owners manual on how to do that.

It may also not make much difference that the SWCG is on the bypass loop unless you plan to heat your POOL water for long periods of time. If you primarily only heat the spa, then it will not matter much as the SWCG goes to only 1 or 2% generation setting in spa mode.
 
mknauss said:
It is best to have some straight pipe before the SWCG. I would not stress on getting exactly 12" or more. What you are trying to do is reduce the turbulence prior to the flow switch in the IC40. Some folks have no issues with essentially 0 straight pipe before the SWCG . Remember you can go vertical with the SWCG. Read your owners manual on how to do that.

It may also not make much difference that the SWCG is on the bypass loop unless you plan to heat your POOL water for long periods of time. If you primarily only heat the spa, then it will not matter much as the SWCG goes to only 1 or 2% generation setting in spa mode.
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I think I will be heating the pool itself for an extended period of time at least initially to get the swim season started early. I have searched threads here to try and find bypass loops people have installed for ideas but most are done with Hayward's which have their inlet and outlet ports horizontal and not stacked vertically like the Pentair Mastertemp.
 
The SWCG needs to be installed after the heater, ie the last item prior to the water going back to the pool. Measure from the 90 of of the heater to connection to the automated valve at your return. You do not need the check valve right out of the heater. See how long of a span you have there.
 
I will measure after work. I think what you are seeing and thinking is a check valve is actually a 3-way valve. There are two 3 way valves that I have to operate the way the currently have the heater bypassed which is another reason I would like to reroute the bypass itself and move the SWG.
 
Might be. Not a good place for a valve. For a bypass a check valve should have been used. But regardless, you could remove the valve too. I suspect you will need to go vertical to fit it in. You might still be able work in a bypass, if that is something you really want, if you go vertical with the SWCG.
 
Good deal. I will post my first log here tonight or tomorrow. I'm looking forward to getting into the nitty gritty of my pool's chemistry. Hopefully I don't regret it.
I should be following the CYA/FC chart for bleach until I am able to start my SWG after 30 days correct?
 
Maintain your FC based on the FC/CYA Levels. As you are not using the SWCG yet, follow the non-SWCG chart.

Once you add the salt and start the SWCG, follow the SWCG chart.
 

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masterofnone48 said:
I should be following the CYA/FC chart for bleach until I am able to start my SWG after 30 days correct?
Click to expand...

Are you following a start guide for the first 30 days? If so follow that which should be in line with the FC/CYA Levels
 
I tested when I got home from work and I got:
Ph - 6.8
FC - 1
TA - 80
CH - 225
CYA - 20 or less

CS= -1.06

Pool has been filled for 7 days. See my thoughts on each test and let me know if I'm looking at this correctly.

I put the deck jets aerating the water to bring the Ph up without raising the TA. That will work right?

The pool guy left two chlorine tabs in the skimmer which I'm pretty sure is not a good idea. I will pick up bleach/liquid chlorine tomorrow to bump FC to 2-3. Should I get a floater and fill it with chlorine tabs to add CYA at the same time for now?

TA seems good?

NPC startup says CH should be no more than 200ppm. That sound right?

CYA is 20 or less and needs to be bumped to around 40 ppm. I can still see the black dot when the graduated cylinder is full with the TF-100 kit.

CSI is not a good reading and could damage the pool but it will be all over the place with new plaster right? Or should I try to make it much less negative ASAP?

Thanks in advance. Everyone here has been a huge help so far!
 
Raise your pH into the mid 7s.

TA is fine.

CH is fine.

Don't worry about CSI until 60 days in.

Add stabilizer.

Don’t put tablets in the skimmer. They create acidic water that goes directly into your equipment. Use a floater if you use tablets.
 
Trichlor tablets contain acid as well as stabilizer. Even though you can add CYA slowly using the tablets it is better to switch now to liquid chlorine, add stabilizer using the sock method to get your CYA up to 30, and manage your pH with MA.

Plaster Installation and Maintenance - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

The CSI is not applicable to new plaster finishes under 30 days old. It is actually necessary, to achieve a smooth and dense surface, to have about a +0.5 CSI during the first 30 days. This is because the plaster (cement paste) surface contains about 20% calcium hydroxide, which is somewhat soluble in balanced and slightly positive CSI water and can be dissolved away. The plaster surface needs to be "carbonated" before the CSI should be lowered to the acceptable and balanced range. And that generally is achieved during the first month under balanced water.

Keep your pH on the high side so you keep your CSI positive, not negative.
 
Things have been going well with the chemistry. I have added CYA and muriatic acid so far and the Pool Math app has been on point with my estimated amount of gallons. I will post some updated test numbers here later. They did a bunch of cement grinding and had a TON of concrete dust in the pool so I brushed and bought a vacuum head to get it out until I can use my robot.

I haven't given an update on the total project lately and a bunch has happened to say the least. I started pushing on the project manager to get the spray decking done since it has been almost 3 months of build time and I am running out of room to store things. I voiced my frustration with all of the mistakes and unacceptable quality of work throughout the build and it was relayed to the owner of the company. The owner sent a lengthy email to me apologizing but blaming everything on the rain and ordering issues from vendors. I replied with a professional rebuttal and a detailed timeline of the pool build and all of the issues that had to be corrected and still need to be corrected with photos to document it. The owner reviewed the info and is now on my side and working to make things right and even offered me a job with his company due to my attention to detail and organization. lol

After all of that communication was out of the way, I had a spray deck crew at my house the next morning at 7 am and they have knocked it out and they are laying sod today. I am waiting to furnish photos to you guys with the sod and some daylight this weekend. Thanks to everyone for all of the help so far. There are still quite a few minor issues that need to be addressed before the job is 100% complete.
 
masterofnone48 said:
I replied with a professional rebuttal and a detailed timeline of the pool build and all of the issues that had to be corrected and still need to be corrected with photos to document it. The owner reviewed the info and is now on my side and working to make things right and even offered me a job with his company due to my attention to detail and organization. lol
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Well done!!! Nice to see you called him on it AND he listened and looked! NICE job!

I can't wait to see the pics!

Kim:kim:
 
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