Adjusting the pool chemistry

[samjesse]

Note - Compiled several threads into this one. Marty TFP Mod.

Hi
How can I share my PoolMath logs here so that I don't have to type them again?
Thank you

 

[samjesse]

PoolMath Logs

troublefreepool.com

This link is copied from the pool math app as well as it available by clicking on my username on the left. Great.

 

[samjesse]

Hi
The Pool Math current logs taken by Clear Choice Lab gives:
pH 7.8 or higher, will lower buy adding Dry Dcid and try 1.6k first.
CYA <35, will increase by adding Dry Stabilizer 6k first
CH 250, will increase by adding Calcium Choride 2.5K or Dihydrate 3.3K (which do you suggest?).

Thank you

 

[AusPhil]

Hi
The Pool Math current logs taken by Clear Choice Lab gives:
pH 7.8 or higher, will lower buy adding Dry Dcid and try 1.6k first.
CYA <35, will increase by adding Dry Stabilizer 6k first
CH 250, will increase by adding Calcium Choride 2.5K or Dihydrate 3.3K (which do you suggest?).

Thank you

STOP......
looks like you still have poolmath set to gallons.... based one your proposed quantities.... check You are using liters not gallons
1.5kg of dry cya will raise it to 50ppm in your 30k litre pool

 

[Rocket J Squirrel]

I can see your logs. You are low on FC and CYA. With a SWCG, you want more CYA.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

If you have access to Muriatic Acid, you really ought to be using it instead of dry acid. Dry acid leaves behind sulphates that are not good for your SWG (or plaster finishes).

Maddie

 

[samjesse]

Got what I need from the local Bunnings store hopefully this brand is alright

 

[samjesse]

The dry acid to lower the pH, the dry stabilizer to increase the CYA, the calcium chloride to increase the CH

 

[mknauss]

It is not wise to use dry acid for lowering your pH. Dry acid is sodium Bisulfate. The sulfate builds up in your water and will destroy metals (SWCG) and plaster/concrete.

 

[AusPhil]

Got what I need from the local Bunnings store hopefully this brand is alright

Take the dry acid back and pick up a 5l container of bondall hydrocloric acid from the building section, they usually have it outside with the bulk timber or 5l of the Bondall pool acid in the pool section if they have it ...... identical stuff just different labels, they call it muriatic acid here but we call it by it's proper name hydrochloric acid
Hope you seen my note on quantities as well ....... in the other thread

 

[ajw22]

Dry Acid - Further Reading

 

[ajw22]

Dry Acid - Further Reading

 

[samjesse]

looks like you still have poolmath set to gallons....

It shows in Liters in the app, here is the image

 

[samjesse]

Thanks for the advise on avoiding the use 1.3K of this Dry Acid. I read it too late and got the pH level to 7.3, which is ok "I hope", the 1.7 or so kilo left over, what is it good for? or get rid of it in the rubbish bin?

 

[ajw22]

Use up the Dry Acid in your pool as needed then switch to bondall hydrocloric acid. A little bit of sulfates in your pool water will not hurt anything. Constant use and a buildup of sulfates can.

 

[MickyT]

Hello Samjesse,

Something is definitely not right with your quantities, unless of course you are aiming at CYA of over 200, which is NOT a good idea.

Recheck your figures.. 600 grams would be a more likely scenario depending on your target. CYA.

I literally just put acid in my pool. I have 31200 ltrs and my pH was 8.0 I only used 500ml of MA (Hydrochloric Acid). Dry acid suggests around 900grams.

Please don't put that much CYA in your pool until it can be worked out whats happening.

regards

 

[AusPhil]

It shows in Liters in the app, here is the image

oops sorry missed this yesterday, even with the pool setup being in litres it is possible for the "effects of adding" section to still be in gallons, caught me out early on which is why i'm attune to any value that seems to be around 4x the expectation
from the old poolmath page using a pool volume of 30k litres

 

[MickyT]

oops sorry missed this yesterday, even with the pool setup being in litres it is possible for the "effects of adding" section to still be in gallons, caught me out early on which is why i'm attune to any value that seems to be around 4x the expectation
from the old poolmath page using a pool volume of 30k litres
View attachment 127214

Samjesse (and AusPhil)

I've never used the old pool math page, but I do recall having issues initially on my setup with the new pool math app, that whilst I set up in litres, it wasn't staying on litres on the chemistry pages. To FIX, there is a button in settings that says "always show pool volume" at the very bottom of page. Set that to ON and the pool volume is always at the top of page when working out the chemicals and I can confirm it is correct. But since setting that, it always now stays on litres.

 

[samjesse]

Hi
Following the below instructions From CCL testing for CC at step #8
the sample is clear after 2 drops, but if I leave the sample 5 minutes or so, it goes back to pink, add another drop, back to clear, leave for 5 min. it goes back to pink. Do you need to continue dropping and waiting 5 min. or the first time it goes to clear stop?
Thanks

1. Rinse the chlorine viewing tube with pool water. If you rinse with tap water, the residual chlorine could interfere with your tests.
2. Fill the chlorine viewing tube to the mark indicated.
3. Using the small spoon provided, add one heaped spoonful of chlorine detection powder. If the sample flashes pink for a moment but then returns to clear, or if the sample turns brown, add another spoonful. Replace the lid on the powder immediately to extend the life of your kit.
4. Make sure that the reagent is thoroughly mixed. Occasionally, some parts may not dissolve, especially if the reagent is older. This should not be a problem.
5. One drop at a time, add the chlorine titrating reagent. Mix between each drop, and count the total number of drops added until the colour changes to clear. The colour may be very faint, so make sure that it is completely clear. If unsure, add one more drop – if there are no more changes, don’t count the extra drop.
6. Divide the number of drops by 2 to get your free chlorine level in parts per million (ppm).
7. Add five drops of chlorine detection reagent and mix well. If the sample remains clear, your combined chloramine level is zero. Replace the lid on the reagent immediately to extend the life of your kit.
8. If the sample turns pink again, add one drop at a time of chlorine titrating reagent, as per step 5. Count the number of drops until the sample is clear again. Replace the lid on the reagent immediately to extend the life of your kit.
9. Divide the number of drops by 2 to get your combined chloramine level in parts per million (ppm).
10. Dispose of the sample safely. Do not pour the sample and chemicals back into the pool, instead pour down the sink with some running water.
11. Rinse the sample tube with tap water and store in a cool, dark, and dry place.

 

[wireform]

The first shot at it when clear is your final answer.